This may be for a completely stupid reason so I am hoping to get some input over and above the original question with regard to the reason for asking it.
I have a 1974 18' Chieftain. The model I have is an O/B model. I have looked at a lot of restore threads and aside from the transom skin itself it looks like there are no real stringer or bulkhead differences between the I/O and O/B models.
With that in mind I have considered converting my boat to an I/O model. I have opportunities all the time to pick up old boats with fully functional Mercruiser 120's and 140's for near nothing. My hull plate says the max HP is 140 so as tempting as a 165 would be I don't want to risk that.
From looking at the different threads it appears to me that the aluminum skin on the O/B models is just a little taller then the Mercruiser keyhole cut-out. It also seems to me that for the most part the real strength of the transom comes from the 1 1/2" laminated and encapsulated plywood more so then the skin. I have a metal supplier that can provide just about any alloy at a competitive price that a person might want. My thought was that I could make a template of the cut out area of the transom from which the supplier could cut my extension. I can then mig in the new piece of aluminum in order to make the conversion as well as fabricate the cross brace that goes over the top from gunwale to gunwale.
Am I out of my freakin' mind or is this reasonable? Are my assumptions (yup, I know about what you get when you assume) correct about the strength of the transom coming from the plywood more then the skin?
Thanks in advance for kindly telling me I'm correct or gently telling me I'm out of my freakin' mind.
Adam
I have a 1974 18' Chieftain. The model I have is an O/B model. I have looked at a lot of restore threads and aside from the transom skin itself it looks like there are no real stringer or bulkhead differences between the I/O and O/B models.
With that in mind I have considered converting my boat to an I/O model. I have opportunities all the time to pick up old boats with fully functional Mercruiser 120's and 140's for near nothing. My hull plate says the max HP is 140 so as tempting as a 165 would be I don't want to risk that.
From looking at the different threads it appears to me that the aluminum skin on the O/B models is just a little taller then the Mercruiser keyhole cut-out. It also seems to me that for the most part the real strength of the transom comes from the 1 1/2" laminated and encapsulated plywood more so then the skin. I have a metal supplier that can provide just about any alloy at a competitive price that a person might want. My thought was that I could make a template of the cut out area of the transom from which the supplier could cut my extension. I can then mig in the new piece of aluminum in order to make the conversion as well as fabricate the cross brace that goes over the top from gunwale to gunwale.
Am I out of my freakin' mind or is this reasonable? Are my assumptions (yup, I know about what you get when you assume) correct about the strength of the transom coming from the plywood more then the skin?
Thanks in advance for kindly telling me I'm correct or gently telling me I'm out of my freakin' mind.
Adam