Does this sound like the coupler or something else

[tunaboss]

I had my boat out yesterday 96' 350 2bbl, alpha one. Had a hard time starting it, but once I got it running it ran great. Towards the end of the day I was cruising and it just shut down, turned the key to start it and it sounded like it was locked up. Wait a few minutes, try again, and it started and sounded fine. Put it in gear and took off, only ran about another 5 minutes and it shut down again, this time I was able to hear something, a pretty loud "tink" or something as I was able to hear it over the engine noise. Again, I turned the key and it seemed like the engine was locked up, and that is how I finished the day and got towed in. Oil pressure was good, engine temp was good. Looking at it this morning there is a wet spot of oil that looks like it's coming from the bottom of the outdrive at the plug, the outdrive oil was serviced 3 years ago along with a new gimbal bearing, drive shaft seals, and whatever else was done, the boat was used once after that and went into storage, so, really this is it's second voyage out after the service was done.

Where do I start?

Thanks again,

 

[GA_Boater]

Something else. Pull the outdrive off to see if it's causing the lock up.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you pull the drive and it still goes "tink" then pull the plugs to get the water out.

 

[tunaboss]

I didn't have time yesterday to work on it, however, I did get a chance to turn the key again, and it's still locked.

I can spin the prop by hand in neutral, and in forward and reverse but it is noisy.

I'll pull the drive out this week, what am will I be looking for when I get it out.

Thanks again,

 

[GA_Boater]

With the drive off, see if the motor will crank with the starter.

 

[tunaboss]

Out drive is out, engine fired right up, upper shaft with the u-joints won't turn, bottom prop shaft does turn. Last service I replaced the oil seal on the upper unit, took it to a boat mechanic to have the pre-load set, if I remember correctly he did it by feel said he's done a thousand of them and knows where to put it. Unfortunately that was 3 years ago and 300 miles away from where I am now. So, I guess it's on me.

What do I do now?

Thanks again,

 

[tunaboss]

So I split the upper and lower and a little water came out, oil was full. Here are a couple pic's of what I'm dealing with. The vertical shaft turns in gear with some effort, but the drive shaft is locked. Once I get the spanner wrench I'll remove the rest and see what needs to be replaced, and install a new seal kit to the entire upper.

Am I on the right track, what else should I be looking for.

Thanks again,

 

[achris]

... took it to a boat mechanic to have the pre-load set, if I remember correctly he did it by feel said he's done a thousand of them and knows where to put it. ...

No... Just, 'no'... I don't care who he is or how many he's done, you CAN NOT set the preloads by feel. The difference between 5 and 9 in/lb is difficult to feel, and is the difference between the drive running right, and the drive getting hot enough to promote failure, like burning seals and letting water in... Which is what's happened to your drive. That grey sludge, that's oil and water emulsified. You need to COMPLETELY strip the top housing and clean it out. You'll also likely find that all the bearings are shot, and I see heavy rust on the drive gear. That box is almost beyond economic repair, even doing it yourself. Strongly consider just scrapping it and buying an SEI replacement... And given that water is heavier than oil, and will sink, the bottom box has probably got more water (and rusty parts) in it than the top box....

Chris.......

 

[tunaboss]

Thanks Chris, what pictures of the bottom box can I post for you.

 

[achris]

Drain the oil and see what it looks like. That should be enough to condemn it.... As for photos, without opening the box up, nothing to see....

Chris.........

 

[tunaboss]

The oil actually looked really good, as it was new oil, it did have a little water in it. Keep in mind, it was only out once before and I believe it held up well and didn't start leaking until after it sat for the past 3 years. So, I think the water intrusion is just from this past weekend. Very little metal shavings on the magnet. The SEI replacement outdrive is $1800 is that what you are referring to,

I'll follow up once I get it apart. Trying to find the $70 wrench to disassemble the top.

Are you thinking I need to pull the lower box apart as well.

Thanks again,

 

[Bt Doctur]

So I split the upper and lower and a little water came out, oil was full

When you drained the lower unit before you split it how much oil was drained ? I see rust in the upper gears so I`m guessing you were rusted up and were low on oil

? did you do any type of service before putting it in service

 

[tunaboss]

I drained quite a bit of oil, didn't measure it, but it all went into a drain pan. at least a quart or more..

No, I didn't do any service prior to taking it out other than starting it on the hose ears, and letting it run for awhile.

 

[tunaboss]

I was thinking, yea, it hurt a little. But, when I get the spanner wrench and start taking the upper apart, being that it won't turn I have to assume that it probably won't want to come out easily.

So, what are the tricks to getting the gear/brng assembly out of the housing?

Thanks again,

 

[H20Rat]

Rust on the gears... If they are rusty, so are your bearings. Unless you completely gut and start over (not economically feasible), it is going to be short for this world. At least in my opinion, you can either buy a SEI replacement now, or spend some valuable time/money on this drive, and end up buy a SEI replacement in a couple months.

 

[tunaboss]

Can I not clean the rust off the gears, replace the bearings, thoroughly clean the housing, re-seal and rebuild it and have a worthy reliable rebuilt unit.

I hear what your saying as far as replace vs rebuild, and I really don't know boat mechanics at all, just seems to me that it would last and be good.

If I decide on replacing with the SEI unit, should I replace the whole unit or just the upper?

Again, your advise is appreciated.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Whole thing. And I have been there and done that. The special tools required to rebuild the lower are enough to pay for the whole enchilada. You cannot ever know what is happening in the lower unless it comes apart. To rebuild you'd spend more on tools and parts than an SEI complete costs. I've done the math. Cold, but truth.

 

[tunaboss]

Thanks guys, I guess a new unit is the way to go. I take it SEI is the most economical, and or best on the market?

This boat is 96, I put about $1k into it a couple years ago, now another $2k probably. I know what B.O.A.T stands for, and I'm certainly feeling it now. Just a thought though, how much $$ do you put into a 23 year old boat before you call it done. It's in good condition otherwise, and most likely wouldn't invest in another. I know it's up to the individual.

 

[nola mike]

You can always pick up a used one on CL, haven't looked at gen 2s but gen 1s are $2-300 in my neck of the woods. I'd feel ok running it if the oil looked good and upper gears looked good. Drain and pressure test and you're probably good to go.

 

[nola mike]

BTW, I put $2-3k in my interior and floor, and will be spending $1k or so at least on a new engine this fall on a 30+ year old boat that I paid $4k for. But after that, I'll have something that I know everything about and should outlast me.