Re: Drain passage under floatation foam
I did about 30seconds of brainstorming trying to think of a way to use foam under a floor and be able to dry it out. Sorry, 30 sec is about the limit of my attention span.<br /> I saw where somebody on these forums said they used a piece of pvc pipe and drilled small holes in it..and foamed over it. I liked the idea (about the same as a french drain)..but..thinking into it a bit results in "maybe" more harm than good.<br /> <br /> Here's the problem. In order to drain it means that you think the foam will get wet..By opening a drain hole, where water can get out...means it can also get in...faster.<br /> Foam will need considerable airflow in order to dry. Not sure a small rope size tunnel will allow that. I think it will get wet faster than it can ever dry out.<br /> About the only thing I thought of so far would be to build partitions on the underside of the floor prior to installation. About halfway the distance from the underside of the floor to the hull. Prior to installation, turn the floor boarding upside down and fill these partitions with foam. Saw the foam off level with the partitions.<br /> Looking at the floor upside down would almost look as if it had stringers on it, but, these stringers would only be half as tall as the hull stringers. And, they would be filled with foam in between them.<br /> Turned over and installed in boat would result in floatation against the floor, halfway down toward the hull. From the hull up to the floatation would be air space. There should be limber/drain holes drilled in the stringers front and rear to allow water to escape and air to get in.<br /> Gravity and considerable air space would allow the floatation a chance to drain and "maybe" dry out.<br /><br /> I still think a person would be better off by sealing the floatation cavitites to where moisture cannot get in there. I don't think boat manufacturers spend enough time here, but, you can. Or, at least I sure think a person CAN seal those areas completely by encasing the stringers with a couple layers of glass, and the underside of the floor...and right before you lay the floor in place, put a layer of glass and resin on the tops of the stringers and install the floor while the resin is still tacky. Then just make sure to seal the topside of the floor wood with glass...and spend double time looking for holes, cracks, crevices, etc...any way for a drop of water to get to the floor wood or around it.<br /> Just do everything you can to seal those compartments air/water tight..AND..don't leave your boat outside in the weather.<br /> I don't think a rainstorm or washing your boat will play much of a roll in saturating foam if the floor is sealed even "decently". Most foam is saturated by the boat holding water from the drain plug getting stopped up, or continuously open in a rainy environment.