Drive stays in position where set downwards and upwards…but…

[soulsalvation]

Wherever the position of the drive is it can be manually lifted upwards but doesn’t move downward if you try to push it down. This isn’t normal obviously so does anyone have an idea of what might be at play here. I’ve bled the lines, there are no leaks anywhere, and the motor is working perfectly. From completely lowered position the drive takes 13 seconds to go up to cutout. Any ideas anyone?

 

[dubs283]

If you can move the drive/trim rams by hand in either direction there is air in the system. The bleeding process is simple, fill the trim pump fluid reservoir with the proper oil to the bottom of the fill hole when the drive is in the full down/in position. Operate the trim/tilt system full up and down four times to bleed air from the system. Top off the reservoir after this process and check for leaks. It may take more up/down cycles to complete the bleeding process.

If there are leaks noted, repair the leaks and repeat the bleed process

 

[Rick Stephens]

If I'm not mistaken there is a pressure relief valve that allows the drive to be forced up. This is for when an obstruction is impacted. All it would take is crud in the valve to allow the drive to be lifted easier than normal.

 

[dubs283]

If I'm not mistaken there is a pressure relief valve that allows the drive to be forced up. This is for when an obstruction is impacted. All it would take is crud in the valve to allow the drive to be lifted easier than normal.

That valve in the pump assy isn't for underwater strikes at high speed. It is for relief when the rams are at their peak extention in/out. Hence the squealing sound at max extension

The relief "valve" you refer to is a ball/spring relief in the piston located inside the ram. It is possible there is something stuck in it however that situation is rare. OP would need to disassemble the rams, inspect and clean any/all debris if that is the case. Possible to need to do that however we start with the simple things, then move more in depth if needed

 

[Rick Stephens]

Possible to need to do that however we start with the simple things, then move more in depth if needed

Wisdoms.

 

[soulsalvation]

If you can move the drive/trim rams by hand in either direction there is air in the system. The bleeding process is simple, fill the trim pump fluid reservoir with the proper oil to the bottom of the fill hole when the drive is in the full down/in position. Operate the trim/tilt system full up and down four times to bleed air from the system. Top off the reservoir after this process and check for leaks. It may take more up/down cycles to complete the bleeding process.

If there are leaks noted, repair the leaks and repeat the bleed process

When my drive is down liquid comes out of the reservoir, I can’t get anymore in. Put the fill screw back on everything works up and down but you can’t force the drive down …only lift it. There are no other leaks. Thanks for replying Dubs283 and Rick

 

[soulsalvation]

Wisdoms.

When my drive is down liquid comes out of the reservoir, I can’t get anymore in. Put the fill screw back on everything works up and down but you can’t force the drive down …only lift it. There are no other leaks. Thanks for replying Dubs283 and Rick

 

[dubs283]

When my drive is down liquid comes out of the reservoir, I can’t get anymore in. Put the fill screw back on everything works up and down but you can’t force the drive down …only lift it.

Then the reservoir is full, guessing thus is an older system? (Not oildyne)

It's possible the fluid is aerated, it happens when fluid is added to a near depleted system. It just takes time and multiple up/down cycles to fully bleed the system. Give the fluid a chance to settle, an hour or two, then commence the fill/bleed process again. Patience is needed for this....

 

[soulsalvation]

Then the reservoir is full, guessing thus is an older system? (Not oildyne)

It's possible the fluid is aerated, it happens when fluid is added to a near depleted system. It just takes time and multiple up/down cycles to fully bleed the system. Give the fluid a chance to settle, an hour or two, then commence the fill/bleed process again. Patience is needed for this....

Okay Dubs….I continue operating it and hopefully that’ll do the trick…thanks again for your advice and I’ll get back to you with results. Take care

 

[soulsalvation]

Good morning Dubs! A week has passed since I tried to push air out of the trim lines and other than a smoking connection nothing seemed to change however the drive was left in the up position and for a week or so it stayed up but this week it slowly lowered again, I can still lift it up manually but can’t force it down. In the next day or so I imagine it will be all the way down. My mystery continues. Wha’d’ya think? Thanks to all who respond.

 

[dubs283]

At this point I'd say you have one or both rams leaking internally or a faulty valve in the pump itself.

Rams can be rebuilt or purchased aftermarket, pump valves ought to be still available oem

 

[soulsalvation]

At this point I'd say you have one or both rams leaking internally or a faulty valve in the pump itself.

Rams can be rebuilt or purchased aftermarket, pump valves ought to be still available oem

Thanks for your advice Dubs.

 

[soulsalvation]

At this point I'd say you have one or both rams leaking internally or a faulty valve in the pump itself.

Rams can be rebuilt or purchased aftermarket, pump valves ought to be still available oem

Just an addendum to the trim pump motor issue. We took her out for a spin on the lake and despite that issue the boat performed beautifully. So the trim not staying locked in an upwards movement didn’t affect it. Backing up worked normally, forward had no problem as well so unless some major issue develops we’ll run her as is. Thanks Dubs and others who responded. All have a good day.

 

[dubs283]

All have a good day.

You as well. Time on the water better spent than time in the shop, some days anyway