DT140 lower unit saga...

dcdunbar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2008
Messages
12
Well it's been two months now since my lower unit crapped out on me and thought I had it all done last weekend. But nooooo- friggin problem hit me now on my 1st test run. After running ht eengine for maybe 1/2 mile I get the red temp light appear on the console. I throttle back and then it goes away. So obvioulsy there is an obstuction of some sort so back off comes the lower unit. Upon inspection of the unit it seems as if the "exhaust seal rubber" that fits below the plate has deteriorated and the little lip that fits over the water tube has come loose which thereby obstructed the flow of water. Ok, well I dug that thing out and then went to put the impeller and cover back on then and then one of the bolts sheared in the housing- unbelievable. I promise I was not torquing it too hard. Nontheless, I now need to drill into the bolt and get an "easy out" in there to remove the bolt. Well hopefull I can get that thing out as i doubt I can get a good seal w/ 3 of the 4 bolts in place...

So my question to the forum involves the ehaust rubber lip that broke off. I'd love to get the seal off and replace it but of course the screws are frozen beneath the water pump plate and I cant seem to get them off- tried pb blaster, hear, swearing etc to no avail. So what happens if i just ignore the little piece that came off? See part number 13 on the follwing diagram http://store.brownspoint.com/dt140/fig045-1408601.asp.

I really want to use the boat but cannot handle another month of repairs from the shop...

thanks
 

Marion Moore

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
200
Re: DT140 lower unit saga...

Depending on how large of a piece of exhaust seal rubber that came off, it may suck exhaust gas causing the impeller to loose prime. Being the cover all the bases C personality that I am, I would do it all while you have the unit apart. Also, if you can get the drive shaft housing off (4 phillips screws), it will probably help you get the broken water pump housing bolt out. At least you will be able to heat it all up with the seals and gaskets removed with the drive shaft housing.

On all of my lower unit tear downs (4 different units all with a lot of salt exposure) I used an impact screw/bolt extractor. Every screw but one came out. I had to drill and EZ-out that one. You twist it tight and wack it with a large hammer causing it to twist the screw. You MUST get a phillips screw driver or tip that fits the larger screws or you will certainly strip one or all of them.

It is possible that the piece of rubber that came off may not be blocking the passage but may be allowing the hole to suck exhaust gas. I know this is frustrating suff but you have no choice but to fix it. Oh yeah, you could buy a new engine. Not going to happen at my house.
 
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