Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

[OldJohnson6hp]

I saw it mentioned that this can be disassembled..How does it come apart? I would like to clean mine up better, as after my o-ring replacement job I'm thinking some old ring may have fell down inside the spring area. It doesn't pop up flush anymore. Doesn't seem to leak but I have taken off the line and had it leak out fuel even after the tank was depressurized...

Thanks guys! Oh and bktheking you mentioned in an old thread you received a special tool for this job. Can you take a picture of it?

TIA

 

[emckelvy]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

You need a very slim, hi-tensile-strength steel rod to go up the backside of the connector (i.e. the fuel and air 'barbs') and tap the guts out the front. A regular old steel nail just won't cut it, not strong enough.

Thin welding rod works well, or if you have a long pin punch it'd be ideal. Just tap the guts back into the connector with a mallet or suitable non-marring tool.

I put a thin coat of Permatex No. 3 Aviation-type non-hardening gasket dressing on the O.D. of the main piece before reassembling, I figure this'll help with any final sealing needed.

HTH........ed

 

[OldJohnson6hp]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

Have the pin punch that may work..When tapping them out how much force is usually required? I'm assuming you shouldn't be pounding the crap out of it but should it come loose easy or like a "quick firm tap"? (I realize this is kinda hard to describe online )

Don't wanna break it..they're a bit spendy

 

[emckelvy]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

You should have the connector on a firm surface, one way is to set it on a socket that's got a large enough I.D. so as not to interfere with the piece coming out, but will provide a bit of support for the body of the connector.

If you have a vise, adjust the jaws in a similar manner and that'll work.

A small ball-peen hammer should be more than sufficient to git 'er dun. For a connector that's never been apart before, you're probably gonna need a few stout raps to get it started.

But not anything you're gonna need to break out the 5-lb sledge for!!!!

HTH..........ed

 

[bktheking]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=365024

Have a look at this thread, F_R makes them and may have one left, PM him if interested, the AOMCI link has pics of the tool.

 

[kbait]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

If you used sierra(napa) o-rings, as I did ONCE, it may leak due to not seating right because they're too big (mine leaked), I got the BRP o-rings to replace 'em and they're just a little smaller. Work great! You can get BRP parts from most any marina. I haven't had any issues w/other sierra products (available here on iboats at great prices) except their carb kits don't usually come w/replacement floats.

 

[phineas]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

I am rebuilding a pr of them right now, I used a thin rod that is hard and goes through the hose barbs. I actually used a drill to make the hole a tiny bit bigger in the barbs to fit a hard straight rod that I had. I had done one once before that had the barbs threaded into the connector, and i simply took them out and used a punch. I had tried before to put them in through the front and while it is sorta easy to get the old ones out in pieces, getting a new one in threatened to ruin the new one. Just use the vise to push them back in flush. I paid $4 a pc for the "O" rings

 

[F_R]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

I am rebuilding a pr of them right now, I used a thin rod that is hard and goes through the hose barbs. I actually used a drill to make the hole a tiny bit bigger in the barbs to fit a hard straight rod that I had. I had done one once before that had the barbs threaded into the connector, and i simply took them out and used a punch. I had tried before to put them in through the front and while it is sorta easy to get the old ones out in pieces, getting a new one in threatened to ruin the new one. Just use the vise to push them back in flush. I paid $4 a pc for the "O" rings

Oldjohnson, you have a PM.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

I am rebuilding a pr of them right now, I used a thin rod that is hard and goes through the hose barbs. I actually used a drill to make the hole a tiny bit bigger in the barbs to fit a hard straight rod that I had. I had done one once before that had the barbs threaded into the connector, and i simply took them out and used a punch. I had tried before to put them in through the front and while it is sorta easy to get the old ones out in pieces, getting a new one in threatened to ruin the new one. Just use the vise to push them back in flush. I paid $4 a pc for the "O" rings

Last time I bought em they were $2 each at my local OMC dealer.

 

[asdasc]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

5/64" diameter is right for the tool. I actually found that Home Depot sells black 8p(?) finish nails that are hardened. They are just long enough, 2.5 or 3" long. I ground the point of the nail flat and it worked great. I rebuilt two that day and they are still working great.

If you leave the tank in the boat and connected to the motor, I would use the Sierra seals. They are hard to get on and off the motor, but work great. If you need to disconnect the tank often from the motor, be sure to get the BRP version.

 

[ppd1107]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

I have one that I am rebuilding with the spring under the plunger is broken. Where do I get a new spring?

 

[F_R]

Re: Dual-line pressure tank connector question (and bktheking)

I have one that I am rebuilding with the spring under the plunger is broken. Where do I get a new spring?

Part number 301825 spring from any Evinrude dealer. It's about 12 bucks. OR go to you local Ace Hardware and pick out a "close enough" spring. It isn't exactly a rocket precision part.