Edelbrock Manifold Gasket Question

cmk245

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I have a used Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake manifold going to be installed on my 5.7 engine.
Should I use Edelbrock gasket, OR just use stock GM or Merc. intake gasket?
Does it make a difference?
 

funk6294

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As long as it's the regular SBC and not a vortec you can use the intake gasket of your choice.
 

cmk245

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Thanks, It's a PRE-Vortec Engine, (1988). PO had used "Silicone" for not just the end rail's, but used it instead of any gasket..

Not going back on that way........Just wanted some input on gasket choices.... With Alum. manifold to Cast iron head.
I already have new Edelbrock shouldered bolts to get a socket on better.. Stock bolts close too close to use socket to torque correctly..
 

Cat nip

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Keep that socket handy, every one of those manifolds that me or my buddies used needed to be 're torqued many times. Sometimes even at a stop light lol!
 

Fishermark

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Are you planing on boating in salt water? You will need to take some extra precautions if so to avoid corrosion.
 

cmk245

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Thanks, that sounds like a PITA....... I'll try Loctite on threads, and /or lock washers, IF they will fit. Only intake I have to use...
I know the end bolts go into coolant passages..
 

cmk245

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FISHERMARK,
Engine is Closed system with Antifreeze in engine and manifolds.
Only Salt Water would be in the Elbows, Except for the stuff the boats floating in......
Do they recommend any type of Extended life stuff for coolant in Marine engines?
.
 

gm280

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cmk245, If it is at all possible, use a torque wrench, and here is why. Too many times folks simply tighten intakes manifolds, oil pan and even transmission pan bolts by feel. And later on those things leak and they are doing the job once again. And that is because most folks tighten things way too tight. As a matter of fact, too tight to work like the gasket(s) were designed to work. You have to torque to the specified numbers and sequences to have a properly secured and leak-proof setup.

So if you can, torque the intake to the specs it is supposed to be tighten and not anything more. You risk the chance of squashing the gasket which causes splits, cracks and leakage. I had to learn that the hard way. I use to tighten bolts and was getting leaks so often. And once I tightened to the factory specs, not one leak since. There is a reason for those torque numbers. JMHO!
 

cmk245

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I agree gm280, I always was planning on Torqueing every bolt on the motor that I could get to. That's why I purchased the intake bolts with the washer larger then the bolt head so socket will fit on. Plan to torque manifold with Carb off for more room to center bolts.
 

Scott Danforth

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I recommend felpro or rol gaskets
 
Last edited:

cmk245

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Thanks Scott,
Do you also just use RTV on end rails instead of any gasket that might push out when tightened?
Found Felpro # 17320 set for my engine.
 

Scott Danforth

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Depends. Sometimes I use the rubber end rail strips with a big dab of RTV in the corners. Sometimes I put two beads of RTV on each of the end rails and squash it in place with the manifold.
 

cmk245

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Would you suggest leaving the Alum. manifold bare alum. or paint it with rest of the motor?
I have seen it done both ways
 

Scott Danforth

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If your in or near salt water(even with closed cooling) paint it or have it hard anodized.

My boat is closed cooled and my intake looks like crap from salt air and moisture.
 

cmk245

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Thanks for your Input, Scott.......Appreciate it.
How about the paint on Heat Exchanger? Mine needs to be stripped off and re-done. Was planning to take to Radiator shop to clean out and pressure test to be sure with it. I know having been in the Automotive Trade (40years) that Radiators were painted with a Thin paint to let them cool better, would it be the same with Heat Exchanger being down in engine compt.?, or just use the same paint as the rest of engine?
 

Scott Danforth

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I would just pull the end caps on the heat exchanger and clean as needed. Salt water will keep the heat exchanger clean as salt starts to come out of solution above 135F. It basically acts as an abrasive

Your heat exchanger is copper tube painted or powder coated with the least expensive pain the OEM could get. Rustoleum rattle can black works well.

If you paint your intake, clean it first and then use a good zinc primer. When done, used fluid coat or boeshield and hose the motor down with it.
 

NHGuy

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What was said is good.
I will add something you probably know. Put a dab of silicone or Mercruiser Perfect Seal on the ends of the intake manifold gaskets to hold them in place while you set the intake into place. Some guys rub a thin film of silicone around the intake holes on the heads too, but I think that's unneeded with the raised silicone rubber seals on gaskets nowadays.
 

Scott Danforth

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FYI mercruiser perfect seal is permatex #3
 
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