electric shift prblem

Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
28
​I have a 1971 50 hp evinrude. It has an electric shift push button. When I push the button for reverse I have to rev it up at really high rpms to get it to shift into reverse. shifting into forward is not a problem. any ideas what the problem is?
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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13,652
Does it shift into neutral? It sounds like an oil pump pressure/volume issue. Is there oil in the gearcase? and is it the correct type? The filter on the oil pump could be clogged. It is possible that the shift rod from the solinoids is binding preventing the enough fluid to push the clutch dog into reverse. Forward is hardly ever an issue with these Hydro-electric as it defaults to forward when no power is at the shift solinoids to route the fluid. .
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,226
First thing you want to check is the oil in the lower unit. It is shifted by the oil (hydraulic). Better yet, change it. Must use BRP Premium Blend (was Type C). The tiniest grit in the oil will jam up the piston that moves the clutch dog. Then it is a major tear-down to fix it.

Second thing you should check is the voltage at the blue and green wires going down to the lower unit. Slide the insulators back and attach a voltmeter to the green one (don't disconnect the wire). With key on, shift to neutral and should show nominal battery voltage. Repeat several times to detect intermittent problem. Then do the same on the blue wire AND the green wire (separately) while shifting to reverse. Reverse requires voltage to BOTH wires. Those push button switches are notorious for problems.

The fact that it shifts if you rev it up could mean a worn out oil pump/shifter piston. But in all honesty, I've never seen it happen. Usually just the opposite, jammed piston from grit.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
28
changed the gear oil but no change. it tries to go in at low rpms but still gotta rev it up to get it to go into reverse.
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,226
OK, you need a basic understanding of how it works. When you push the reverse button, battery voltage is sent to both the green and blue wires going down to the lower unit. That is why you need to check that before going any further. It would be futile and foolish to tear into the lower unit when the trouble is in the control.

Moving on from there, the voltage at the motor energizes both solenoids in the lower unit. Those solenoids close two valves in the oil pump in the nose of the gearcase. That is as far as the electric part goes. The actual shifting is done by oil pressure from that pump moving a piston that moves the clutch dog between the forward and reverse gears.

So............If we establish that the voltage is reaching the solenoids, then either the reverse solenoid is bad (probably not) or the control valve is not seating (probably not that either), or the piston is excessively leaking or is partially stuck in it's bore. We know the neutral solenoid and it's associated valve are ok because you have neutral.

Bottom line is go at it in order. Check voltages, check solenoids, then into the gearcase if necessary. If you have to get that far, it is a major job requiring total teardown. Some tools are required. Factory shop manual highly recommended.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
28
ok. thank you. I will check voltages. Question: how to I check solenoids? Do I have to drop the lower unit to check solenoids?
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Disconnect the wires where I told you to do a voltage test. Use a suitable ohm meter to check resistance of each wire to ground (wires going down to gearcase, that is. Should be 5 - 6 ohms. Or if you have a low reading ammeter, it should draw 1.5 - 2 amps. "Everybody" has an ohm meter (multimeter). Not many have a suitable ammeter (Not even me).
 
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