Electrical Wiring Assistance Requested

Sgw204

Recruit
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Messages
4
Hi,

I've been looking at this forum for a long time now and I decided to join because there is so much great information and assistance. I've read a lot of posts and the site seems like a great resource full of people looking to help, which is great for a rookie like me.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 16' aluminum v-hull with a 35hp Johnson (manual start) boat that will have several electrical devices and I am in need of some wiring assistance.
The boat has:
12v:
Led bow lights
Led stern light
2x fish finders
Bilge pump
Accessory plug

24v:
MinnKota power drive V2 trolling motor with wired foot pedal

Misc:
Onboard 3 bank battery charger
3 deep cycle batteries ( 2 for trolling motor, 1 for other accessories)

Ideally, I would like to have switches to turn on/off all the electrical components.

I'm just having trouble trying to diagram all of the above.

Is this something anyone out there could assist with?

I appreciate your time.

Thank you

Steve
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,627
Howdy

Since you motor is pull start the two banks can be setup separate, but maybe later if an electric start is used it could be an easy conversion. Here is the basic setup. The pic shows using a fuse and switch panels and the mains come from the one battery using a 10 AWG wires. The ground buss bar shown can be used but with a boat your size should be fine without, just bring all grounds back to the fuse panel.

Note: with an aluminum boat do not use the hull for ground

Also this can be done with a breaker only panel, so switching on and off are done by the breakers.

Gen Wiring Diagram.jpg

Here is a setup I found which shows lines going to an outboard, just ignore them. Also shows a line going from one or the 24V side bats which can also be ignored. The trolling motor needs a breaker or fuse inline. The switch can be a single on/off battery switch. The electronics and lights can be turned off using one switch on the switch/breaker panel or another battery switch.

charg.jpg
 

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,627
Should also add, your battery charger needs to be one which can charge both 24V and 12V bats at one time. Look for one which has separate pos and neg leads for each battery.
 

NicoPags

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
217
that is possibly the best and most simple diagram I have ever seen.
 

sam am I

Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
2,169
Dodge covered it!!! I would add one thing........well two!!

A9R1C28.jpg
She was near 5lbs, excellent fishing yesterday!!! And with your safe new setup, rest assured, these will be jumping in your boat ;)
Pic-04212016-007.jpg
 

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Sgw204

Recruit
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Messages
4
Thanks for the replies everyone. One question I did have is do I need a separate fuse panel for the 24v trolling circuit? I'm aware it needs an inline fuse, but should this circuit run to the same switch panel or should I keep it separate? Due to the 24v and 12v separate banks...
Sorry if this doesn't make any sense, Electrical is NOT my Forte!!
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,627
Do not connect the 24V wiring to the 12V. You can put a single bat switch in the main hot wire feeding the trolling motor just past the fuse. Most folks don't install one because the motor has an on/off switch built in with the power control. If yours does not, installing one should be good.

Battery switch.png

Agree with Sam, a 50 amp breaker or fuse feeding the panel is great
 
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