Electronic Conversion Kit

[kwoolard]

I own a 1974 mercruiser stern drive with a 302 ford engine. I was curious as to whether there is a conversion kit for the distributor from points to the electronic version? If so, is it worth changing over if I have to reset the timing on the engine, or do I? Do you have to replace the entire distributor or just what is under the cap?

 

[Capt. T]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

Based on past experience w/ automotive applications I would say its definitly worth doing. Easier starting, more torque and more HP throughout the rpm range. As with any engine to get the most out of it you will need to spend some time fine-tuning but once its set, you should be good for the duration.<br /><br />I would expect that Pertronix has an Ignitor II kit for the 302. Not sure about p/n. Other smarter folks around here will probably be able to provide those.

 

[JasonB]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

I have a '76 ford 302/mercruiser set-up and did this converion last year. I replaced what is under the cap and also had to reset the timing a bit.<br /><br />I used a Pertronix Ignitor II. Since my coila n wires were original 1976 issue, I replaced the coil with a Flamethrower epoxy filled 40k volt coil and a new set of 8mm marine plug wires (I used Magstar) and a new cap. The engine starts easier, idles better, and has a bit more top end grunt. The only downside I have seen is the tach no longer reads correctly, but I have a possible fix for that. I also had to use a rotor other than what was in the kit as it didn't fit as I wanted it to. I had to cut the resistance wire out and run a new lead from the key for power as I had an unknown short somewhere in the wiring harness. The entire project cost me about $150.<br /><br />The ignitor yu will use depends on which distributor you have. I have a prestolite, but some 302's came with a Mallory I think. If you can't find what you need here at Iboat's mega mall, I bought my electronics and coil at http://www.vintageperformance.com/ and the wires came from Overtons.com. I believe I've seen the wires here at Iboats, but not sue about the Ignitor II modules. I highly recommend spending the xtra for the Ignitor II and the coil. The standard ignitor can be damaged if you accidentally leave the key on/engine off. The Ignitor II will shut itself down before damage.<br /><br />BTW, the timing may only need to be bumped a couple degrees if at all. You will also want to look at re-gapping the plugs out per the pertronix instructions due to the hotter spark if you upgrade the coil.<br /><br />Long live the last of the 888 drives!

 

[Walt T]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

You wont get more torque or HP. It may run better, and get better throttle response, but that's about it. No more points problems, hello module problems. <br />Actually I've found the electronic ignitions to be pretty much trouble free.

 

[ncwest39]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

Check JC Whitney for the Pertronix conversion if you can not find it on this site.

 

[kwoolard]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

So, in summary there is an under the cap conversion kit which does not require the removal of the entire distributor. If the timing has to be modified after the conversion how would that be done with the engine in the boat? Are there any precaution steps that need to be taken to ensure that no adjustment would have to be made to the timing? Thank you guys for your fast response!

 

[Bondo]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

kwoolard,<br />If you Don't Know how to set the Timing on an Engine.........<br />You're in Way Over Your Head......<br />Take it to your Mechanic, Let him Install it......<br />Whenever the Points are installed,<br />Or this Conversion is done,<br />You Have to Set the Timing...... <br /><br />This is a job for an Advanced Backyard Mechanic....<br />It Doesn't Sound like you're Qualified.....<br /><br />No Disrespect Intended...

 

[LubeDude]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

Take the engine out of the boat????? <br /><br />Bondos right, Your not qualified!!

 

[Walt T]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

I think he means the engine is out and he wants to change over with it out. You'll still have to set the timing with a timing light but you can install the electronic distributor close enough so it will start and run.

 

[JasonB]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

Agree with the above three posts. This is an advanced backyard project.<br /><br />The distributor does not come out, you just remove the cap, rotor, and the plate the points are attached to. The Pertronix kit replaces that plate, and on mine, could only go one way. You then wire the unit as necessary, reinstall a new rotor and cap. The engine would then need the timing adjusted back to standard, which for my 302 was 10deg BTDC if I remember right (may be wrong though). The beauty of your Ford engine is that the distributor is on the front of the engine making this job much easier, at least in my boat. Don't pull that distro. You probably don't want to pay the bill for the mechanic to have to go find the oil pump rod.<br /><br />Skills/tools needed for this job, if you aren't comfortable with them, you will need to find someone who is:<br />Ability to check/adjust timing<br />basic mechanical ability<br />basic wiring ability (ground is easy, power requires some extra thought as you need to bypass/remove the resistance wire and may need to run a new key-on power lead).<br />Screwdrivers<br />Wrenches (3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16) would probably get it<br />Some Patience! Took me a few days to track an electrical gremlin that kept killing the engine after 30 seconds of run time. Drove me nuts. The project was well worth the effort though and I learned a lot since someone had to show me how to do the timing properly.<br /><br />BIG TIME SAVER--- remember that a SB Ford times off the opposite piston from a Chevy. Ford times off the front left piston as #1 (opposite the fuel pump). Cost me 2 hoours of scratching my head one afternoon trying to figure out why I couldn't get the timing right. Also, if you end up trying this yourself, get a manual that has an electrical schematic of the engine. On mine, the resistance wire is between the coil and the choke (tan I think or white with tan stripe). I clipped this wire and ran a fresh lead straight from the key-on post to power the Ignitor. Works great and less headache. If you have any questions, let me know.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

The Petronix instructions that come with the kit seem pretty clear. If there is an external ballast resistor, the instructions say the red lead connects to the ignition side of the resistor (rather than the positive coil post) -- don't seem to be any other variations.<br /><br />I'm trying to decide whether the kit I have will work on my dual-point system (have another post on that issue) -- also might switch back to a coil with an internal resistor, just to simplify. I changed coils when I was trying to correct a gremlin that turned out to be unrelated -- corroded plug in the harness hidden down in the bilge.

 

[JasonB]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

I would give Pertronix a call. They have a 1-800 number for those inquiries. I'll look in the next couple days to see if I still have it. It is on their instruction sheets.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Electronic Conversion Kit

Thanks, JasonB. I believe the number was on the instructions, and will give them a call -- seems like the smart way to go.