Engine access is never easy ....but...

[harringtondav]

The effort I went through below wouldn't be bad for an engine pull, but was a bit much for yearly maintenance.
I needed to tear the boat down this far to access the fuel filter and recirculating pump impeller. Also I needed to access the fuel filter housing to change fittings to allow a 2 stroke premix fuel can for engine fogging. ...more on that later.
Learning curve and some simplifications will make it easier next fall. SS wood screws driven into the aluminum beam will be gone. I'll tap the holes and avoid gumming the phillips head and having to drill out the screw. The bottom three holes for the access panel had loose SS lock nuts. ...one is still in the bilge. ...no idea how Regal put it together, or how I will. So I'll bond marine plywood behind and use the SS wood screws.
DIY can be a pain, but much less expensive than the $135/hr marina techs doing it.

 

[Scott06]

The fiberglass cut out was there or you cut it to acess?
youve just ensured this thread will become another OB vs IO thread… i miss the days when it was just oil threads …

 

[harringtondav]

The fiberglass cut out was there or you cut it to acess?
youve just ensured this thread will become another OB vs IO thread… i miss the days when it was just oil threads …

The cutout is factory. The access panel is behind me in the pic.
Yea, O/B v I/O. When I was researching for this new boat I looked at O/B versions of each....for maintenance simplicity.
Consistently higher $/hp. Also O/B versions were only offered in lower hp than the I/O versions. Closed cooling on this VP sealed the deal. Also a seemingly reliable single point raw water drain. ...But I still have to flush with pink juice.
We only put about 30-40 hrs/year so annual impeller changes are probably overkill. I'm doing it this year for learning. Once I get the fuel filter broken loose I think I can craft up a deep reach filter wrench to change from topside. ...I've learned my lesson on oil posts. Motorcycle and truck forums hate them too.

 

[tpenfield]

OMG That's a factory cutout? They didn't even gelcoat the cut edges.

As a fellow I/O boater, here are my time (and back bone) saving tips . . .

1) Fuel Filter: How often do you change the fuel filter in your car(s)?

2) Engine fogging: Empty the fuel tank and then put about 5 gallons of the fogging mix back into the tank. That should be enough fuel for the winterization activities. You'll need to run the engine on the muffs for about 15 mins to get the fogging mix through the fuel system. Then you 'winterize' (Anti-Freeze) on the fogging mix. That will save you from messing with the fuel system at the engine.

3) Impeller: Check your Owner's/Service Manual, but the newer sea water pump impellers are good for about 300 hours (my Merc impellers are). The older styles would go 100 hours. So, you probably don't need to replace the impeller every year.

4) Where is the engine oil filter? Easy access?

Is that a 'half' closed cooling system (looks like it). Be sure to use a strong enough AF and maybe even drain the system.

 

[Lou C]

At least they provide an access panel! That actually doesn’t look bad to work on. The only things that might be challenging are the starter & steering actuator. But this is a nearly new boat so those may not need repair for years…
On my old F/W I reconfigured the rear of the boat to make the rear bench seat easily removable as well as the wood access panels. In about 5 min the seats come out and the panels are out & it has wide open access. Even so replacing the leaky steering actuator was a challenge. The exhaust on both sides had to come off. Starter I’ve done a few times over 20 years, not too bad of a job. In a couple of weeks I’ll be winterizing my brothers 2020 Chapparal with the Merc 4.5 V6. It’s not open like that but you can get at normal service points. A starter or steering actuator job would be very difficult though. Oil change; fuel filter change & water draining all very easy.
For me because I’m in salt water & have to figure on replacing exhaust systems every 5-7 seasons anything with a cat converter exhaust is out. The cost penalty is just too high. But to be fair outboards have their problems too. And expensive parts.

 

[Lou C]

Here's an old pic with everything taken out.....

Later pic with everything in place

One seat removed, access panel on a take apart hinge opens like a door.
I thought of this about 15 years ago when I just couldn't keep moving that really heavy bench seat out of the way with the heavy wood panel behind it. So cut the wood in half, got take apart hinges and used a pair of pontoon seats that easily come apart.
Why can't they build boats like this from the factory?

 

[tpenfield]

For me because I’m in salt water & have to figure on replacing exhaust systems every 5-7 seasons anything with a cat converter exhaust is out. The cost penalty is just too high. But to be fair outboards have their problems too. And expensive parts.

@Lou C The 4.5 and 6.2 SeaCore versions have full closed cooling. So you would only be replacing the riser portion of the exhaust. . . maybe every 7-9 years.

 

[Lou C]

Well that's good to hear Ted
I have to say the new Merc 4.5 V6 in my brother's boat runs great. If you didn't look you would never know it is really just a very refined version of the old GM 90* V6, and not a V8. However his is raw water cooled, so I guess we'll see what happens in about 6 years or so....when the time comes he'll probably ask me if I want to buy it lol.
However, the old hot rodder in me can't seem to leave the simplicity of the past...mechancial fuel pumps that cost $65 to replace....4bbl carbs you can rebuild in 2hrs for $50 etc, and old school Chevy engine parts available everywhere....

 

[tpenfield]

One advantage of a bigger boat is that there usually is decent engine room space . . .
.

.
Access on the port side of the port engine is a little 'iffy' though. I might have to borrow @harringtondav 's Sawzall

These engines are actually a breeze to work on compared to the 7.4's on my Formula.

 

[Lou C]

Yep that is true, if I were going to stay with an I/O I would look at bigger boats with a single engine, wide open engine compartment.
However as I get older the drift to outboards seems stronger and stronger, once you get past the inital price gouging that is lol.

 

[Scott06]

OMG That's a factory cutout? They didn't even gelcoat the cut edges.

As a fellow I/O boater, here are my time (and back bone) saving tips . . .

1) Fuel Filter: How often do you change the fuel filter in your car(s)?

2) Engine fogging: Empty the fuel tank and then put about 5 gallons of the fogging mix back into the tank. That should be enough fuel for the winterization activities. You'll need to run the engine on the muffs for about 15 mins to get the fogging mix through the fuel system. Then you 'winterize' (Anti-Freeze) on the fogging mix. That will save you from messing with the fuel system at the engine.

3) Impeller: Check your Owner's/Service Manual, but the newer sea water pump impellers are good for about 300 hours (my Merc impellers are). The older styles would go 100 hours. So, you probably don't need to replace the impeller every year.

4) Where is the engine oil filter? Easy access?

Is that a 'half' closed cooling system (looks like it). Be sure to use a strong enough AF and maybe even drain the system.

Agreed- Last fall I changed my alpha one impeller, which was OEM, after 6 years /280 hrs) could have gone another 6 years.

Fair comment on fuel filter but Fuel filter in a car that doesn't have the moisture exposure and tank gets emptied every 2 weeks may present a different challenge to fuel filter. Mine is so easy to get to and is $15 canister why not. The other reason to change it - when I got the boat it had been neglected and FF was never changed, couldn't get filter off- had to take bracket off put it in a vise, cut the filter open, grab the filter wall with vise grips and hit the vise grips with BFH... obviously keep doing what works for you, just a potential issue if you never change it

 

[Lou C]

Those new style Merc filters are totally different than the old standard canister filters. Not sure if they are more or less prone to get stuck on. At least Merc sells a handy tool to get it off….

 

[harringtondav]

OMG That's a factory cutout? They didn't even gelcoat the cut edges.

As a fellow I/O boater, here are my time (and back bone) saving tips . . .

1) Fuel Filter: How often do you change the fuel filter in your car(s)?

2) Engine fogging: Empty the fuel tank and then put about 5 gallons of the fogging mix back into the tank. That should be enough fuel for the winterization activities. You'll need to run the engine on the muffs for about 15 mins to get the fogging mix through the fuel system. Then you 'winterize' (Anti-Freeze) on the fogging mix. That will save you from messing with the fuel system at the engine.

3) Impeller: Check your Owner's/Service Manual, but the newer sea water pump impellers are good for about 300 hours (my Merc impellers are). The older styles would go 100 hours. So, you probably don't need to replace the impeller every year.

4) Where is the engine oil filter? Easy access?

Is that a 'half' closed cooling system (looks like it). Be sure to use a strong enough AF and maybe even drain the system.

Access cutout is ragged, but Regal's cover looks nice and covers well.
1) I hear you on the fuel filter thing. Past 4.3 LX I was religious....for about two yrs. Then I emptied the filter into a clear container and found clear gas. So after 25 yrs I think I changed maybe 4-5 filters. Engine ran fine. I put a carb kit in shortly before I sold the boat. Carb was as clean as a whistle. But this engine is high pressure direct injection. After this I won't do annual changes, but probably more often that five years.
2) I did this last year...sorta. The boat's tank wasn't quite empty, so I SWAGGED the amount, mixed a rich premix in a small jug and dumped it into the tank. I don't know if I got 50:1, but I saw and smelled two stroke smoke, so I called it good. I'm changing the filter housing's fittings so I can make a quick topside switch to my old O/B tank. Then I'll know I'm burning 50:1.
3) Agree. I read a post here stating annual or big trouble. ....thinking 30 hrs/year isn't typical annual. I'm doing it now so I can practice with the puller tool and learn the ropes.
4) Rear port like other GM's. "Easy"? Well I can see it and I think I'm small enough to get through it. Port side has gear storage. If I grease myself up I think I can squeeze in.
5) Yes. 1/2 closed. Manifolds and HX are raw water. I'm in fresh water so HX issues are more simple. VP's process is to dump the raw water single point drain, and run 2 gals of pink juice through the muffs. Last year I left the pink stuff sit all winter. Remembering that "air doesn't freeze" I'll dump the pink stuff when I'm done and let it dribble out the bung on the way to storage.

 

[harringtondav]

Agreed- Last fall I changed my alpha one impeller, which was OEM, after 6 years /280 hrs) could have gone another 6 years.

Fair comment on fuel filter but Fuel filter in a car that doesn't have the moisture exposure and tank gets emptied every 2 weeks may present a different challenge to fuel filter. Mine is so easy to get to and is $15 canister why not. The other reason to change it - when I got the boat it had been neglected and FF was never changed, couldn't get filter off- had to take bracket off put it in a vise, cut the filter open, grab the filter wall with vise grips and hit the vise grips with BFH... obviously keep doing what works for you, just a potential issue if you never change it

Yea. First spin off filter removal on a new engine has always been a fight. ...apparently the factory uses extra gusto. I grease the new oil filter gasket and give it maybe an extra 1/8 turn after contact, fuel filter hand tight if I can get a good grip. Fuel filter sees slight negative pressure. Oil filter sees 60-70 psi at best.

 

[harringtondav]

At least they provide an access panel! That actually doesn’t look bad to work on. The only things that might be challenging are the starter & steering actuator. But this is a nearly new boat so those may not need repair for years…

I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Previous 4.3 LX's starter and steering actuator lasted 24 yrs w/o and issue. I could access the steering and maybe the starter.
This engine would require a pull to get to either. In 24 yrs I'll be over 90, if I'm alive. ....someone else's problem by then.

 

[tpenfield]

The canister type filters usually prescribe 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact. So, make sure they are not too loose. The factory probably does 1+ turns . . .

 

[TPSK]

The more space in MO, the more convenient it is to serve.

 

[Lou C]

With fuel filters I have noticed sometimes what happens is the base (aluminum) sometimes gets a bit of oxidation on it making the filter harder to remove. I just coat the base, and the rubber gasket with motor oil & never had trouble getting one off.

 

[Lou C]

this was pretty easy on my boat.....


this, was not, only way those large cotter pins were coming out, was with a special cotter pin extractor and some colorful language lol.

cotter pins can be seen in this pic they are there to make sure the mounting bolts don't back off. OMC/Volvo used these, Merc used locking plates.

 

[Scott Danforth]

While pulling the aft seating and doghouse does give me access.

I still wish I had more room.