Engine & drive corrosion problem

Tony Cruiser

Recruit
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
4
I may purchase a Crownline 240LS 2007 w/ 350 mag with bravo 3. My concern is seller says boat used only in fresh water. Bravo 3 has erosion on drive just before prop, above prop housing (all erosion is on drive). Are there tell tale signs to tell if boat was used in salt water or is the damage to the drive from electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) and would any part of the engine be damaged. Test drive to come soon. Any help would be great.
 

ErieRon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
463
Re: Engine & drive corrosion problem

Corrosion on a drive is normal for a boat kept in the water. I can't speak to salt water issues or signs, but it's definitely a problem in fresh water, and I'm guessing much worse in salt water. Drives have sacrificial anodes on them made of zinc, aluminum and magnesium that are there to prevent corrosion. The anodes are supposed to degrade and corrode rather than the drive materials. They're usually on either side of the bell housing and immediately above the prop. The latter being a round disc, or round disc with a fin. In your case, I think that engine has a MerCathode that is an on-board device designed to counter corrosion. Don't know much about them, but below is a link to the service manual for that engine/drive if you want to read up before buying. The corrosion that you are seeing on the drive typically is not an indication of anything wrong with the engine.

http://www.4shared.com/file/119353633/70c4dde5/Mercruiser_Service_Manual_31.html
 

TilliamWe

Banned
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
6,579
Re: Engine & drive corrosion problem

Bravo 3 has erosion on drive just before prop, above prop housing (all erosion is on drive). Are there tell tale signs to tell if boat was used in salt water or is the damage to the drive from electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) and would any part of the engine be damaged...

Unfortunately, what you are seeing is fairly normal corrosion on a Bravo 3 outdrive. It is NOT saltwater indicative. They will do it in fresh water, when the Mercathode system is not turned on (ask me how I know!? :( ) and the anodes are not "freshwater only" anode.

REMOVE the props, the MOST IMPORTANT piece is the rear bearing carrier. If it corrodes too much, the seal will leak and allow the oil to exit and water to enter.
Here is just about the worst you want to see:

MVC-657F.jpg


MVC-658F.jpg


MVC-123S.jpg


Much more than this, and that seal could start to leak.
BTW, that corrosion was caused in just 12 months (2 seasons) of being slipped in freshwater, without the Mercathode being on. In the next 36 month (6 seasons) with the Mercathode turned on and the proper anodes, along with yearly repainting, the corrosion did not progress at all. As a matter of fact, these three pictures were not all taken at the same time. i think the last picture is actually the earliest.
 

Tony Cruiser

Recruit
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Engine & drive corrosion problem

Just want to say thanks for the posts & pic's. They will help me decide on the purchase. The drive looks the same as pic's. I will ask them to pull props to see all & then decide.
 

TilliamWe

Banned
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
6,579
Re: Engine & drive corrosion problem

Just want to say thanks for the posts & pic's. They will help me decide on the purchase. The drive looks the same as pic's. I will ask them to pull props to see all & then decide.

You're welcome. Take detailed pictures and post them on here if you aren't sure.
 
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