Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Lowes, Wal-Mart, to name a few. It's called a big plastic garbage can. Fill with water, stick the motor in it and run it.
I don't trust muffs.They are convenient but prove nothing.except motor runs.hello,
does this allow for higher rpm running vs: muffs? do i understand it correctly?
if so how much more is considered safe?
if u want to run in water like this... have l/u in g can, fill with water... ?
how high? to cavitation plate, or bit higher?
under what conditions do u find this advantageous over muffs?
when would u do this given the boater has muffs available...
thanks
lakester![]()
I don't trust muffs.They are convenient but prove nothing.except motor runs.
Using a garbage can filled right up to the brim against the bottom of
the mounting bracket. proves pump works, applies a little back pressure
like in the real water world.A lean running motor might operate on muffs and not even start in the real world.
As with any neutral test run I keep the revs low to avoid a runaway.
A couple a quick blips of the throttle to see if it stumbles.
Of course you need to keep the hose handy or on low as the water
can drop quickly especially with a larger motor.
In a barrel, you can shift it into gear at low engine speeds. That allows you to test the shifting mechanism, and also to set the idle speed and low speed jet under load. Don't be tempted to rev it up in gear, though...you'll get wet. A 35 hp will blow the water out of the barrel in seconds. Be sure to put enough water in the barrel to reach about the same level it does when the outboard is on the boat. Usually, you can see that line on the leg from deposits.
Finally, it's easy to drain the barrel if you buy and install an ice chest drain from the hardware store near the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, you have to siphon the water out.
Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Lowes, Wal-Mart, to name a few. It's called a big plastic garbage can. Fill with water, stick the motor in it and run it.
In a barrel, you can shift it into gear at low engine speeds. That allows you to test the shifting mechanism, and also to set the idle speed and low speed jet under load. Don't be tempted to rev it up in gear, though...you'll get wet. A 35 hp will blow the water out of the barrel in seconds. Be sure to put enough water in the barrel to reach about the same level it does when the outboard is on the boat. Usually, you can see that line on the leg from deposits.
Finally, it's easy to drain the barrel if you buy and install an ice chest drain from the hardware store near the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, you have to siphon the water out.
As with any neutral test run I keep the revs low to avoid a runaway.
A couple a quick blips of the throttle to see if it stumbles.
Of course you need to keep the hose handy or on low as the water
can drop quickly especially with a larger motor.