engine removal...

[slowroller88]

We ended last season with a spun engine coupler on our 1995 ChrisCraft 21 concept. w/ a 5.8l ford and the SX drive. I am finally getting around to replacing the coupler and have hit a snag. I downloaded the OMC manual from the Adults only section and done my reading beforehand. I was advised to pull the drive before the engine by a couple of different techs. The OMC manual clearly states that the drive does NOT have to be removed if I have 6" of room in front of the engine, which I do. I am doing this repair myself and am led to believe ( by the original OMC manual) that I can avoid alignment issues if I do NOT pull the drive. The old coupler failed due to dry rot, as the boat was in dry storage for 18 months before we got it. The boat had no odd nosises or vibrations that would indicate alignment being the issue.
Please share your ideas with me on this matter.
Thanks!!

 

[Aviator5]

Re: engine removal...

The cause of failure "dry rot" does not sound very convincing

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: engine removal...

Pulling the engine is what changes alignment not removing the drive.

No big deal pulling the SX drive off.
Remove the plastic cover on the back of the drive,unhook shift cable,remove the 6 nuts holding the drive on,remove the 2 nuts on the aft end of the trim rams....thats it.

You MUST check alignment after an engine pull or you will sure be buying another coupler.
Grease and inspect the U-joints and gimbal bearing while its off....should be done every year anyway.

18 months will not dry rot a coupler.Maybe 18 years...

 

[Juniinc]

Re: engine removal...

I suggest U to pull the drive, if it isn't stuck should come out in 5 minutes.
U got it the other way around,,,alignment would be necessary if your engine is moved.

 

[slowroller88]

Re: engine removal...

Thanks for the feedback!
I was thinking along the same line as you guys. The reason I asked is that the OMC manual states that by not removing the drive, the alignment would not change as the motor mounts are to be removed by the lag bolts going into the stringers. ( section 17, engine coupler replacement).
I'm thinking that I may as well replace the gimball bearing while I'm at it as well as all of the bellows going to the drive unit, so I had not ruled out pulling both.
Again, thanks for helping a 1st boat owner out!

 

[Juniinc]

Re: engine removal...

Good luck!

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: engine removal...

SX...is what he said.
I think he is reading the Seloc manual...wrong as usual...

 

[Juniinc]

Re: engine removal...

Lol

 

[bruceb58]

Re: engine removal...

Besides being required, you need to pull the drive annually to check the bellows, u-joints and gimbal bearing anyway. You already know what can happen from poor maintenance. No need to continue it and have the next thing fail.

 

[slowroller88]

Re: engine removal...

Thanks again for the Feedback. I have the original OMC shop manual, not the Seloc. As far as dry rot of the coupler, it is the original coupler that is being replaced, ... on a 1995 boat...

 

[bruceb58]

Re: engine removal...

Couplers will last a LOT longer than that if the alignment is kept up and the drive shaft greased annually.

 

[slowroller88]

Re: engine removal...

Thanks Bruce. That is the part of the equation I cannot verify, as the boat came with no maintenance records, so I am working my way through the boat looking for other issues. I will be changing the coupler this weekend and will update the post on my progress.
Thanks again!

 

[Don S]

Re: engine removal...

The OMC manual clearly states that the drive does NOT have to be removed if I have 6" of room in front of the engine, which I do. I am doing this repair myself and am led to believe ( by the original OMC manual) that I can avoid alignment issues if I do NOT pull the drive.

First of all, there are NOT any original OMC manuals on this site. Up in the adults only sticky is a Seloc, it's an aftermarket manual, and knowing the kind of BS that Seloc and Clymers posts is why I ha...... dislike them so much. They are garbage and cause nothing but bad things (in the long run) for those that follow them.

Since you have a 95, you could have a 94 or 95 engine and drive. Since it's an SX, your full engine model number can be used to determine what year it is, then, there are OEM Volvo manuals available for download.
Then, you can use the Seloc as it was meant to be used. As a knee pad when on gravel. You may want to buy a Clymers manual for the other knee while reading the real manuals.

 

[slowroller88]

Re: engine removal...

Thanks Don...
I realized that after my last post..... Threw me off a little, I have always heard stay away from the Clymers & Seloc books, mostly on this site, yet, this site offers the two manuals I shouldn't use... Live and learn I guess.
I will pull my engine serial # and order an old copy from Ebay, as I have found some there.
Sorry for the mis-information on the book i have.