Engine running check - look ok ?

[Rake722]

Having adjusted the throttle cable and set the idle I just wanted to post this and see if everything looks as it should before hitting the water.

in tje video I have adjusted or am in the process of adjusting the idle / cable to the carb.

how does she sound ?

https://youtu.be/myjJ5imURO4

 

[Alumarine]

That's way too shaky for 1100 rpm.
Are you sure the spark plug wires are on correctly?
Firing order is 1-3-4-2

 

[Rake722]

That's way too shaky for 1100 rpm.
Are you sure the spark plug wires are on correctly?
Firing order is 1-3-4-2

That’s one of the reasons I posted this.
ill have to double check but I need to understand which lead is which first

 

[Alumarine]

2 of the wires must be on correctly or it wouldn't run.
Why don't you assume the wire you have going to cylinder 1 is correct and connect the others accordingly.
See if it starts and idles smoother.
If it doesn't, pick another for cylinder 1.

Or, you could determine when number 1 is at TDC and go from there but try the above first.

 

[Rake722]

Advice much appreciated Marc. This boat is due to be shipped to the Greek islands in 2 weeks and I need to get this sorted out before it goes.

i can assume cyl 1 has the correct lead from the distributor as it’s the shortest wire and closest to the distributor terminal.

ill find tdc for cyl 1 and pop off the cap to see where the rotor is pointing - this has the delco electronic ignition system being a 1994 LX.

how do you rotate these engines with a ratchet ? I can’t see anywhere to get a spanner on ?

thanks

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Normally, the wire you have goin' to #2, is #1,...... The closest terminal to #1 cylinder,.....

1100 rpms is waayyy to high of an idle,.... 600/ 700 is normal,.....

 

[Rake722]

Ayuh,..... Normally, the wire you have goin' to #2, is #1,...... The closest terminal to #1 cylinder,.....

1100 rpms is waayyy to high of an idle,.... 600/ 700 is normal,.....

Thanks Doc. So I should swap the leads from from pot 2 to pot 1 ? I got them crossed ?

 

[Bondo]

ill find tdc for cyl 1 and pop off the cap to see where the rotor is pointing -

Ayuh,...... This, ^^^, is the proper way, but most of us try to get it to the pot closest to cylinder #1,.....

 

[Rake722]

Ok I’ll go do this the proper way tomorrow.
whats the way to rotate the engine without using the ignition key ? I can’t see anywhere on the crank to get a socket on ?

thanks again

 

[Alumarine]

I put a socket on the alternator and turn it that way.
Might have to put pressure on the belt.
Don't use the crank bolt.

 

[Rake722]

I put a socket on the alternator and turn it that way.
Might have to put pressure on the belt.
Don't use the crank bolt.

Thank you - ain’t no access to the crank bolts so far as I can tell anyway.

and ain’t it crazy that ya have to remove the front engine mount to do the v belt !

 

[Bondo]

Thank you - ain’t no access to the crank bolts so far as I can tell anyway.

and ain’t it crazy that ya have to remove the front engine mount to do the v belt !

Naw,.... There's a 2" spacer block on the port side of the front mount, for that,....

 

[Rake722]

Thank Bondo ! I’m glad you told me that

 

[Rake722]

Kit thinking out loud here but if the leads for cyl 1 and 2 were crossed - would it still idle ok at 800 rpm ?

what else could cause that engine movement at 1100 rpm ? Timing ? Choke ?

many thanks

 

[Rake722]

I’ve got down to the yard today and checked the leads which were all in the correct position.

my next thought was the joke and it was under quite a lot of preload and the plugs were quite sooty. So I released the preload on the choke and gave it 5 mm clearance from the carbody to the flap or the edge of the butterfly. I ran the engine again and allowed it to come up to operating temperature and it was still dancing around so I then turn the mixture screw in Silly gently bottomed out and backed it up by two terms I started the engine again and screwed it in until the engine began to stumble and then backed it off by 3/4 of a turn.I ran the engine again and allowed it to come up to operating temperature and it was still dancing around so I then turn the mixture screw in Tilly gently bottomed out and backed it off by two terms I started the engine again and screwed it in until the engine began to stumble and then backed it off by 3/4 of a turn

After doing this I needed to reset the idle screw on the camp late and had some preload to the barrel adjuster then started idling at 900 rpm with very little shaking. I did notice however that the idle creeps down 50 rpm and then up 50 rpm and then down and then up so I attempted to set the timing.

I realise that the bypass cable is required for the shift into wrapped so I spliced into the black cable coming off the distributor that goes to the shift interrupt and connected the black cable to the hot wire on the starter and made a loop which I inserted between the two white wires on the distributor connector block.I realise that the bypass cable is required for the shift into wrapped so I spliced into the black cable coming off the distributor that goes to the shift interrupted and connected the black cable to the hot wire on the starter and made a loop which I inserted between the two white wires on the distributor connector block. I then adjusted the timing in accordance with the information on the flame arrestor which was 1° before top dead centre.

I removed the bypass wire reconnected the black cable to the shift interrupted lead and the idle was still creeping up and down by 50 or so Rpm.

I called as a friend of mine who is an experienced marine eng friends and he suggested that the carburettor might need rebuilding and cleaning as the reason for the creep in the idle.

i’ve posted a video below and would appreciate your suggestions as I’m under pressure to get this boat working before it gets shipped to the Greek islands

https://youtu.be/E478otCbYKo

Thanks in advance

 

[Alumarine]

Are you sure the tach is right? If it is 900 is too high. It should be about 650 in gear, in the water.
Have you checked the compression?

 

[Rake722]

Are you sure the tach is right? If it is 900 is too high. It should be about 650 in gear, in the water.
Have you checked the compression?

hi Marc I have no reason to believe it’s not right. This is all on the dry boat on a trailer with muffs.

Does it look and sound ok or is this a problem ?

compression is around 150 per cylinder

one thing o did notice is that the idle mixture screw could be wobbled with my fingers after adjusting

I used 2 turns from bottomed out and I see now That the manual states 1 1/4 turns

i’m thinking about rebuilding the carb at this stage.

Another thing that I noticed and I’m not sure if this is normal is that when I pulled the plug caps off cylinder to the coil was arcing between the high tension lead and the coil body is that normal ?another thing that I noticed and I’m not sure if this is normal is that when I pulled the plug caps off cylinder to the coil was arcing between the high tension lead and the coil body is that normal

 

[Rake722]

diagnosis complete - cyl 4 dead valve exhaust side and bent inlet pushrod - teardown underway.

 

[Alumarine]

diagnosis complete - cyl 4 dead valve exhaust side and bent inlet pushrod - teardown underway.

That's too bad but glad you found the problem.

 

[Rake722]

That's too bad but glad you found the problem.

Yeah, head is off and at the machine shop, he got the valve loose and it can be used again so will get the head back tomorrow and start rebuilding if the gaskets arrive in time