Engine Struggles to start Cold?

[bumblebeeamigo]

4.3L Mercruiser I/O 190 HP V6 2001

Probably has around 600 hours on it.

Last year I was really getting nervous because I turn it over and over and over again to get it to start. Once it finally starts it drives perfectly, no problems and restarts.

I took it to the dealer I bought it from to have them check it out, adjust it, and winterize it. They said "Everythings in perfect shape", but again this year I feel like it doesn't want to start.

I don't know how to explain how long it takes to start- like "I need to stop or I'll burn out the starter" so I take a break long, and "I don't think the battery is good for another crank" long. Maybe 15-20 5-10 second cranks. And here's the real problem: My wife and I were going to go boating last weekend and I said, "I don't know if I want to go- I'm worried the boat won't start". We didn't go!

So what use is a boat if I'm scared of it starting. I took it to the dealer and they didn't fix it. Any ideas?

I thought maybe the carb and read some references to that on here. , but I've had carb problems with cars, and it runs PERFECTLY once it starts and starts up fine warm, but maybe thats my problem anyway.

Any advice? Thanks!

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

4.3L Mercruiser I/O 190hp Carbed

Probably has around 600 hours on it.

Last year I was really getting nervous because I turn it over and over and over again to get it to start. Once it finally starts it drives perfectly, no problems driving or with restarts. Unlike anyone who talks about carb issues, once it starts it starts perfectly- It never dies and runs perfectly once it starts. It never even "tries" to start before it starts.

I took it to the dealer I bought it from to have them check it out, adjust it, and winterize it. They said "Everythings in perfect shape", but again this year I feel like it doesn't want to start.

I don't know how to explain how long it takes to start- like "I need to stop or I'll burn out the starter" so I take a break long, and "I don't think the battery is good for another crank" long. Maybe 15-20 5-10 second cranks, without it even trying to start. And here's the real problem: My wife and I were going to go boating last weekend and I said, "I don't know if I want to go- I'm worried the boat won't start". We didn't go!

So what use is a boat if I'm scared of it starting. I took it to the dealer and they didn't fix it. Any ideas?

I thought maybe the carb and read some references to that on here. , but I've had carb problems with cars, and it runs PERFECTLY once it starts and starts up fine warm, but maybe thats my problem anyway. It doesn't die once it starts or anything- once it starts its like a new boat

Any advice? Thanks!

I bought the boat new 13-14 years ago.

 

[alldodge]

It's a 4,3 but what year, serial number is best and if you have a TKS carb or not?

Have you checked for fuel down the carb and check spark with a spark tester?

Also, is the choke plate closed with an 1/8 inch gap at the top?

 

[s.hadley81]

Makes sure your choke is closing when the motor cold.

 

[Silvertip]

The basic question is: "What is your starting procedure?"

 

[JonBrown]

In my service on 4.3 mostly and a few 5.7 engines the distributor will gain condensation over the winter. It needs to be looked at and over 10 years and parts wear I would try a timing light as well. TKS needs clean fuel and a better than average tune up. If you have doubt change the fuel filter on front leftor starboard bottom of engine and start with new fuel. Plugs and wires that are marine and proper would not hurt .. A small failure in fuel or fire makes a huge difference. And it will "POP" through the carb. when you give it fuel . Not a safe thing in a boat.

 

[Scott06]

I'd second the comments regarding gti on system maintenance. Only other comment I'd add is your carb may dry out if it sits for a week. If you have a mechanical fuel pump it may be longer to recharge the fuel bowl in the carb. If mine has been sitting I run the stater for 30 seconds to recharge the fuel bowl. Hit the button on the shifter to pump fuel in via accelerator pump and leave throttle at 10 o'clock. Starts right up and doesn't I've rev the engine while warming up. This is on a repower new carb and ignition, has a real nice hot spark this is why this us the easiest starting carb engine I've ever owned.

 

[Scott06]

Freaking auto correct gti on was supposed to be ignition system... My seadoo is a gti and I guess auto correct is learning...to **** me off

 

[Scott Danforth]

The basic question is: "What is your starting procedure?"

What he said specifically.

 

[airshot]

Had a similar problem on my boat a few years back but then I have a very long run with my fuel line so....I added a squeeze bulb like they use on an outboard motor tank to get the fuel to the carb. Added the bulb in a very obvious/easy access place just in case of a fuel leak, then if the boat has set for a period of time a few squeezes of the fuel bulb sends fuel to the carb and she starts almost instantly. Also went with a flamethrower coil and that has made a big improvement in fast starts. But as others have stated everything must be in really good working order, especially that choke adjustment.

 

[thumpar]

I am interested in the starting procedure also.

 

[Scott06]

Air shot that's a great idea. Was thinking if wiring a momentary switch to run fuel pump but this is much simpler.

 

[thumpar]

Fuel bulbs are a NO-NO in I/Os.

 

[H20Rat]

Fuel bulbs are a NO-NO in I/Os.

Not legal to be shipped in a new boat, too much chance of it springing a leak...

+1 one more on the starting procedure. I'd be willing to bet you aren't pumping the throttle. I have a '94 4.3l, and if it sits more than a couple days, I pump the throttle 4 times before starting. It starts nearly instantly at that point.

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

Thanks for all the thoughts...

Man do I feel clueless reading these posts, but I appreciate the thoughts. The most embarassing part of this is I've owned 3 boats, over 50 cars, 20 Motorcycles and ATVs that I've done most of the work on myself, and I'm an automotive engineer... I've rebuilt engines from scratch, built a motorcycle from scratch, and yet somehow I don't even know how to start a boat.

So I used to just get in, turn on the blower for 5 minutes, and turn the key, nothing else. My old boat had a choke on the O/B which I knew how to use just fine. No choke button on this threw me off.

Then when I started having this issue after 12 years, the guy at the shop said to try the Advanced Throttle, which I push a few times like a bulb (which is TOTALLY not how to do it now that I read about starting procedures)

So I think I might have answered my own question: I'm a moronic owner who is "doing it wrong". But like others on this forum, now I'll hopefully do it right...

You can laugh at my expense, but at least now I know how I'm supposed to do it.

Advance throttle -> Push it all the way forward, which should set the choke, pull it back 1/4 and start her up!

And kids... Read the Manual (The place I bought it from put it in the water with me the first time and went over everything... I don't recall proper starting procedures so I didn't even know there was one)

I look forward to starting my boat right this weekend!

(PS- How can you determine your serial numbers? When I look at my spark arrester, I see a spot for engine, transom, and drive serial numbers, but there's nothing there. I think I can figure it out by year/make/model, but my searching isn't turning up anything specific.)

 

[thumpar]

Check for a tag above the starter for the engine serial. The transom and drive should have a serial printed or stamped into the metal.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Thanks for all the thoughts...

Man do I feel clueless reading these posts, but I appreciate the thoughts. The most embarassing part of this is I've owned 3 boats, over 50 cars, 20 Motorcycles and ATVs that I've done most of the work on myself, and I'm an automotive engineer... I've rebuilt engines from scratch, built a motorcycle from scratch, and yet somehow I don't even know how to start a boat.

So I used to just get in, turn on the blower for 5 minutes, and turn the key, nothing else. My old boat had a choke on the O/B which I knew how to use just fine. No choke button on this threw me off.

Then when I started having this issue after 12 years, the guy at the shop said to try the Advanced Throttle, which I push a few times like a bulb (which is TOTALLY not how to do it now that I read about starting procedures)

So I think I might have answered my own question: I'm a moronic owner who is "doing it wrong". But like others on this forum, now I'll hopefully do it right...

You can laugh at my expense, but at least now I know how I'm supposed to do it.

Advance throttle -> Push it all the way forward, which should set the choke, pull it back 1/4 and start her up!

And kids... Read the Manual (The place I bought it from put it in the water with me the first time and went over everything... I don't recall proper starting procedures so I didn't even know there was one)

I look forward to starting my boat right this weekend!

(PS- How can you determine your serial numbers? When I look at my spark arrester, I see a spot for engine, transom, and drive serial numbers, but there's nothing there. I think I can figure it out by year/make/model, but my searching isn't turning up anything specific.)

the problem is most cars and bikes are EFI, and your dealing with old-school choke on a carb and no fast idle cam (boat carbs do not have a fast idle cam like cars do so the operator doesnt throw the boat into gear at the dock at startup and run over the swimmers)

you have it correct now. one full pump to set the choke and give it a shot of fuel (function of the accelerator pump), if its been sitting a long time, give it a second pump to give it another prime, push the button (or pull the handle) to dissengage the gear selector, move the throttle to 1/4 and turn the key. when she fires, pull the throttle back to 1000-1200 rpm for about 3 minutes to warm up a bit,then go boating.

as an automotive engineer, it is your fiduciary responsibility to your profession to understand the fuel system of everything you own.

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

Check for a tag above the starter for the engine serial. The transom and drive should have a serial printed or stamped into the metal.

Thanks!

the problem is most cars and bikes are EFI, and your dealing with old-school choke on a carb and no fast idle cam (boat carbs do not have a fast idle cam like cars do so the operator doesnt throw the boat into gear at the dock at startup and run over the swimmers)

you have it correct now. one full pump to set the choke and give it a shot of fuel (function of the accelerator pump), if its been sitting a long time, give it a second pump to give it another prime, push the button (or pull the handle) to dissengage the gear selector, move the throttle to 1/4 and turn the key. when she fires, pull the throttle back to 1000-1200 rpm for about 3 minutes to warm up a bit,then go boating.

as an automotive engineer, it is your fiduciary responsibility to your profession to understand the fuel system of everything you own.

Thanks a lot. Yes I agree with everything you say. While I am an automotive engineer by trade, I must admit I am in Product Marketing as a career, but that is not an excuse. I do need to understand the fuel system of everything I own! The silly thing though is sometimes you don't realize you don't know it... Its like kids. Before you have a kid of your own, raising a kid seems pretty straight forward. As soon as you have kids of your own, you realize you didn't know it as well as you thought you did!

Thanks!

 

[Silvertip]

Don't beat yourself up. Put anyone who has never driven a carbureted car on a cold day and he/she couldn't get it started either.

 

[Maclin]

Man, you guys are really making me feel old :lol: