Engine Swap

Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
13
OK - I've decided to get a remanufactured engine for my 94 Sea Ray 20' Bowrider I/O... My question is this - is swapping out the engine a backyard mechanic job or do I need to take it to a pro? I'm an average mechanic and can use basic tools, etc but I don't know if there are any special requirements for bolting to the outdrive, etc. I'll have to swap the manifolds, covers, accessory drives, etc. These I can handle, it's the hook-up/alignement to the outdrive that has got me worried. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...<br />Mark
 

f_inscreenname

Commander
Joined
Aug 23, 2001
Messages
2,591
Re: Engine Swap

Go out and get a manual and read it over. If you think you can, then you can. One thing to think about and always my worst problem. How are you going to get the motor out? Car motor hoists only go so far up. I have been lucky enough to have a fork lift around but I have to take the boat to where it is. So....you have to take it apart then run it over to the shop, get it pulled then in my case, set the motor in my van, taken it home and unload it, do rebuild, do all steps before in reverse. If you don't have a low transom I hope you got a big strong tree.
 

Liv2fish2

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
9
Re: Engine Swap

Hey Bottom, you can swing the motor in place yourself with a good engine hoist, depending on whether you can find one with enough height clearance. The SeaRay 20' is probably a bit taller than my Wellcraft, which I swapped engines on, and my standard Pep Boy engine hoist barely cleared the stern of the boat. Other than that, the engine mounts should be almost identical in location. You may have to adjust the height of these mounts a bit, but this should be done with the sterndrive main shaft (gimble area) taken out, so you can get the alignment rod in place. This part would be best done by a mechanic. You can make your own alignment shaft out of a combination of pipe/tubes, but I wouldn't unless you are very familiar with engine/drive alignment and exact tolerances. This does not cost much to have a boat mechanic do. Bolting the rest on is not hard. Especially if you use sticky tabs on the accessories (wiring) with notations to keep track of where everything goes. Good luck.
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2003
Messages
13
Re: Engine Swap

Am I correct in understanding that the alignment of the engine to the drive is the only "tricky" part and that I can get a mechanic to do just that part of the installation? Also, any ideas where I can get a set of exhaust manifolds? My starboard side one is cracked as well... are these also refered to as "risers"? (Forgive my ignorance - I'll wrench on my Jeep all day long, but this is my first experience with a boat.)<br />Thanks,<br />Mark
 

Liv2fish2

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
9
Re: Engine Swap

Mark,<br /><br />Typically the most tricky part is aligning the engine to the drive and getting the outdrive shaft to mate correctly with the drive coupler (off the engine drive shaft/flywheel). Depending on whether you have a Mercruiser or OMC/Volvo, one is a bit more difficult. All in all, I think you could handle the other operations. A good shop manual is very helpful, cause it gives many "tips" for saving some work and aggreviation down the road. I did not have any problem replacing my engine. I just wanted the mechanic to check alignment, gimble shaft and bearing condition/tolerances, and outdrive gears & clutch assembly. For the cost to buy a standard rebuilt marine engine and have the marine shop do a turn-key operation (including inspections) only ran me $1300. I am very pleased with the engine's performance. I went from a GM 4.3L V6 to a GM 5.7L V8. I recommend the 5.7 over the 5.0 anyday.
 

Liv2fish2

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
9
Re: Engine Swap

Sorry, didn't discuss the exhaust. You can replace the exhaust manifolds/risers in two parts. The Elbow/riser & water-jacketed manifold. You can pick these up probably off this site (iboats) or at Overton's.com, West Marine, or any other boat dealer/shop. They typically run anywhere from $150 to $200 for each part, so you spend anywhere from $600 to $1000 for an OEM setup (starboard & port total). You can just buy the individual pieces w/gaskets, however. Also, try looking for a good marine dismantling yard & shop in your area. They can save you big bucks and usually have tons of parts. Here in Sacramento where I am from, I go to Shipwreck Marine. They have saved my $1000s over the years.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,089
Re: Engine Swap

Hey, Go For It.... It's a Piece of Cake...<br />I can have mine on the floor in 20 minutes....<br />Pull the outdrive 1st.... If it hasn't seen Mechanic in awhile, Now would be the Perfect time for a Check-up,+ Reseal Job...<br />Then the Exhaust... few bolts,+ a couple screws....( you Don't really Have to remove it, But it saves Alot of Size,+ Weight)<br />A couple Wires, Unplug the Harness... Fuel lines.... Water lines.....<br />4 More bolts,+ Shes Yours....<br />There Should even be lifting lugs on the top of the motor....
 

SeaMasterZ@aol.com

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
1,924
Re: Engine Swap

when I pulled the motor out of the SeaCraft SeaFari 25, I used a 8x8 timber on the top of a tow truck boom, chained down to the boom cables, what a rig that was ... but it worked fine, the motor came right up, and it wasnt all that tricky, no worse than installing an engine in a car (cept for that heart attack rig to get it up in the air!) Of course, I wanted to have the boom moveable instead of the boat, so I had to rig that up instead of getting three twenty foot long heavy gas pipes and chaining them together in a tripod - old school engine lift, just on steroids <br /><br />I will tell you this, its hard ... but when you do it, you know how it goes in, where everything is, and its no longer an alien collection of pipes and hoses and wires going everywhere, it becomes YOURS ... thats something special to me, just go for it!
 

SeaMasterZ@aol.com

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
1,924
Re: Engine Swap

THIRTEEN HUNDRED DOLLARS FOR A REBUILT MARINE ENGINE INSTALLED???????????????????????????????????????????<br />Where is this place, and how many YEARS are they backed up for orders?<br /><br />12 years ago, I spent that for a Mancini 302, with what it took to marinize it, stainless heads and brass freezeout plugs ... and stainless everything, never seized and liquid lectrical tape on the terminals<br /><br />you mean thirteen THOUSAND, lol, I see ads for rebuilt marine motors going for a few grand just for the motor, if you have an honest to god thirteen hundred dollar engine installed, Ill be there the next day!
 

JasonB

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Messages
1,455
Re: Engine Swap

When I pulled the engine out of my Glastron, which is very tall on the trailer, I went to home depot and picked up 4 12' 4x4 posts and 3 12' 2x6. I used these to build a ~10'-11' tall "swingset" frame. Hung my 2 ton hoist from it and pulled the engine right out. It's a handy tool. I've used it to remove the V4 outboard from my fishing boat, remove the boat from the trailer, and flip the fishing boat for a repaint. Cost about $75. Well worth it.
 

Patrick123

Cadet
Joined
May 11, 2003
Messages
27
Re: Engine Swap

I lifted my engine out with a boom on the back of my tractor, which only goes about as high as a normal engine hoist. I took the wheels + tires off my trailer and set the frame of the trailer on blocks of wood right on the ground. I gained maybe 10" that way.
 

anesthes

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 5, 2003
Messages
186
Re: Engine Swap

My engine hoist wouldn't clear. Put a chain hoist over the top of one of my automotive lifts and did it that way.<br /><br />-- Joe
 

conimicut1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
46
Re: Engine Swap

I've pulled a few motors out of boats and cars. <br /><br />The main problem with a boat is its transom height, I doubt if you will be able to use a conventional cherry picker. I used a backhoe, called a guy who had one in my neighborhood, explained what I was doing, said it would take less than an hour and asked for his minumum, remember to double the price , he will have to come back to reinstall it. He charged me 50 bucks and didn't charge me to come back after he saw how easy it was.<br /><br />Other than the method of removal, a boat engine removal is easier than a car. If you are spending the time and cash for a new motor, you might as well (man expensive words!) have new bellows, shift cable, gimble bearing replaced by a pro and engine alignment, about 600. And you gotta replace the manifolds and risers (easy to do yourself), since price differs on each motor do a search, I got good prices on basicpower.com. You really have to do all of these things, add it up, compare it to the value of the boat and deceide if its worth it now, before you start. This is when you realize it may not be worth it, check for floor rot, stringer rot, condition of seats, batteries, trim pump and cylinder operation, etc.Ask yourself if you really like this style of boat or if another one would suit your style better. If its too much, sell it now in the spring and count yourself lucky.
 
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