Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

USS Neversail

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
117
Ok, here we go. . . 83 Evinrude 50 hp. Been sitting in the weather for 4 years. Saved it from a family friend. :rolleyes: <br />I ran the motor for a minute or so today, trying to determine the general area that a knocking noise is coming from. <br />No knock at idle. Starts knocking after I raise the high idle lever and the RPM's come up a little. <br />The outer breather cover is off and I notice exhaust(?) smoke coming out, along with light sprays of fluid(gas?) spitting out of the carb throats. <br />The noise sounds like coming from the carb area, upper half. Could be just easier to hear from there, due to the carb throats. Sounded the same from front (while starting) and each side. <br />The overheat buzzer then sounded and I shut her down immediately. Couldn't touch the motor near the plugs for even one second. <br />Then I noticed the water. . . . <br />The lower unit is in a garbage can full of water. The water is now a milky color, but is clearing after a few minutes. Feels cool to the touch, but is slightly oily. <br />Also, the water coming from the tale-tell holes (slots) weren't a steady stream, but constant coughs of water. I have recently replaced the impellar and housing. <br /><br />Where to start now???? Am I doomed to a complete overhaul? :confused: :confused: <br /><br />Thanks, all. <br /><br />Jason
 

Bear

Lieutenant Commander
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Mar 1, 2001
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1,627
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

The outer breather cover is off and I notice exhaust(?) smoke coming out, along with light sprays of fluid(gas?) spitting out of the carb throats. <br /> Bad reeds. <br />The overheat buzzer then sounded and I shut her down immediately. <br /> Take a look at the thermostat. Stucked in closed position? Try again without it. <br />The water is now a milky color<br /> Normal <br /><br />Maybe you'll get better cooling if you can flush the system with the thermostat out. Put back the thermostat lid or cover before you start it.
 

USS Neversail

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
117
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Thanks, Bear.<br /><br />I pulled the cylinder head cover. DRY AS A BONE. I pulled the thermostat and the pressure relief components. I tested the thermostat in a pot of hot water on the stove and it opened right up. Inside the cover, there was dust it was so dry. That also tells me there hasn't been any water flow. :( <br />Any suggestions? <br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />Jason<br />p.s. - I'll be monitoring this site a lot, so any help from anyone is welcome. ;)
 

Bear

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1,627
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Sorry about the bold above. Looking kinda angry. I'm not.<br /><br />What about the water tube from impeller? Is it in place at both ends?<br /><br />Can you use a wire and try to feel and remove dirt? Both from the leg and cylinder.<br /><br />Are you sure the impeller is installed correctly?<br /><br />What happens if you pour some water from where the thermostat was. Can you get it thru?<br /><br />I think you have to pull the lower unit again.<br /><br />Anyone else on this one? :confused:
 

USS Neversail

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
117
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Bear, I found out that the water tube wasn't connected in the lower unit. It had moved of to the side last time. <br /><br />It was pretty loose (wiggly) up in there. Should I be concerned? <br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Jason
 

Bear

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Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Yes. I think there should be a seal up there. Do you hava a manual?
 

USS Neversail

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
117
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Sure do. I know about the seal at the impellar housing, but didn't know about one at the engine. That isn't good news. Oh, well. <br /><br />Seems like that'll be a tough one.<br /><br />Thanks, though. It's better to know I have a bunch of work to do than to find out on the water.<br /><br />Are there any other opinions out there? All help/suggestions are welcome!<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Jason
 

Chris Wilson

Cadet
Joined
Jul 7, 2002
Messages
20
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

For what its worth, I agree that it sounds like you have some reed valve problems. I had a single cylynder motor lose a reed valve and it would not run. I would expect that a motor with more than one cylinder might at least start but would run crummy. Actually successfully fabricated a new reed from a blade from a feeler guage (the company was out of business) - not what you should do if you have one missing. Order a new one. You may want to consider a full set (assuming you have a choice). If one went, how far behind might the others be. This is where a mechanic would know failure tendencies and that advice might help. With out that, I would "consider" changing them all depending on how long I thought I might be keeping the motor.<br /><br />Also, coincidently, we also had not propoerly reconnected the connecting cooling line from the impeller pump to the power head. It gets really hot as you might think. Reconnected and everything was cool - literally.<br /><br />Regarding the milky water, I would not be concerned about the tank being milky but considering the history of how the motor was cared for (i.e. not at all, it sounds like) once you get it operating a little better, you may want to drain some of the lower unit oil and just verify that it isn't taking on water. Look for a milky appearance. Better to find out now than after the season is over and there is damage to you lower unit because of water leaking in.<br /><br />good luck.
 

USS Neversail

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
117
Re: Engine troubles - knocking, spitting, aarrgghh . . .

Thanks for the reply, prop head. <br /><br />As it turns out, the thermostat was still good. But, after pulling the lower unit(again), the water tube was not in the impellar housing. DUH ! Got that fixed now and she pee's like a champ.<br />Also, she stays a lot cooler. Was able to keep my fingers on it for a good 3-4 seconds and after 5 min. or so of running, no overheat buzzer. <br /><br />Funny thing has happened however. Since fixing the t-stat and connecting the water tube, the spitting and smoking out of the carb has stopped. :confused: :D <br /><br />There is a slight fuel leak at the "T" where the line splits between the two carbs. <br />Other than that, it appears to be running fine. It is idling at about 900-1100 RPM's (fixed the tach., too), a little rough, but doesn't stall. <br /><br />I think I am getting close to testing it on the water. <br /><br />Hope I remember to put the plug in . . . ;) <br /><br />Thanks, all who have gotten me over my many rough spots! Sorry to say, I am sure there will be more! :p <br /><br />Jason
 
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