I got a boat a few weeks ago. I have put about ten hours on the boat since I got it without any real trouble.<br /><br />a tech pointed out that a couple of the flywheel magnets had come loose and slid around against each other. so I got the flywheel off, pried out all of the magnets, cleaned it up (lots of scraping), and replaced them with new ones, as per the instructions in the magnet kit and the advice of some fellow i-boat users. thanks! meanwhile, I noticed that the stator had a cooked coil, and recalled that the battery did not seem to charge while I ran the boat. so, I replaced the stator, as well as the power packs and ignition coils. both power packs and a couple of the coils had cracks in the potting, and I have had power pack troubles before, so I figured that I wold spend the money and effort in the name of preventative maintainance. <br /><br />further, I replaced the regulator/rectifier. again, easy while the flywheel is off, and again in the name of prevention. from what little I understand, a bad or aging voltage reg in this system can cook the stator, so it seemed to make sense, since again, one of the coils on my stator was blackened to bare wire. <br /><br />SO, pretty much everything was just bolt-in and hook-up. ..or so it seemed. on re-assembly, the motor started and ran like a champ, but with the engine running, the voltage indicated 18 volts. it sits at 13-14 volts fully charged with the engine not running. but YIKES! the damned thing will not shut off! I cut the fuel at a petcock I installed to switch fuel to a kicker and waited for it to sputter out. of course now I am worried that 1) I flooded my carbs with oil, running the VRO with gas cut off and 2) that I have cooked some or all of the >500 bucks in ignition componentry that I have just installed. help! what did I do wrong?? <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 4 | Registered: Mar 2006 | IP: Logged | <br /> <br />ezeke <br />Chief Petty Officer <br />Member # 33164 <br /><br /> posted March 25, 2006 07:39 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Turning the ignition key to "off" grounds the power packs with the black and yellow wire and shuts down the engine. You may want to recheck that line. <br /><br />The system can be cooked by charger running over 18 volts, which is why people here keep emphasis on using good, fully charged marine batteries. <br /><br />Apparently maintenance-free batteries are a problem, but, more often the batteries are just old and weak. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 592 | From: Cape Cod | Registered: Sep 2003 | IP: Logged | <br /> <br />rodbolt <br />Supreme Mariner <br />Member # 32169 <br /><br /> posted March 25, 2006 08:03 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />double check the blk/yellow wire and make sure they got plugged back up correctly, that motor may also have a shift inturrupt switch that adds a bit of complexity.<br />on the cooked stator, replacing a cooked stator without finding why it cooked just invites another cooked stator.<br />the main reason is bad cables or cable connections and weak batteries.<br />do a voltage drop test on all the battery cables.<br />and check the battery cells for correct specific gravity. <br /> <br />posted by seahawk:<br /><br />ok, will do. the batteries are barely a year old, and are the "maintainance free" blue top optima batts. but I will definitely check the cables. this motor does have a shift interrupt, which is apparently broken, but at the least disconnected. I was unaware of this during about ten hours of trouble free running, but a tech pointed it out when I brought it in for compression check. (the same tech pointed out the magnets under the flywheel and the stator- he is the one that suggested that the voltage regs (rectifiers) on this line of motors were notorious for burning stators, so thats why I replaced that component. the grounds from the power packs: black with yellow stripe. the receiving ends for these lines on my motor are "iffy" at best- can I run them to a ground that I bolt onto the block or run from the starter motor? this is a basic question I have: is one ground as good as another? I will certainly put an ohmeter on the cables. -and back to the shift interrupt: is that a replacement part that I can just get, hook up, and bolt on as well? I notice that without it, shifting is a bit tough, but the motor idles just fine at low RPM and its not really a problem getting in and out of gear. I dont hear any grinding. let me review:<br /><br />new rectifier, stator, power packs, and coils. 1) the problem with engine shutdown is likely a faulty ground from the power packs. check. 2) the problem with the (old) stator could have come from bad connections. I will go through these with a fine tooth comb. check. but a question: could it have come from the rectifier? the potting was cracked. 3) voltage reading after charging the batteries with a charger is at 14-15 volts. when the engine ran, it jumped to 18, but the needle was not pegged. my hope is that my meter is a few volts off, but again, check the resistance of the cables. I started and ran the angine off on one of the two batteries in the bank. and finally 3) the shift interrupt. this is not I part I see in the sierra catalog. any suggestions? okay, truly finally 4) I ran the engine for five minutes after tadding these components, discovered that it would not shut off, and so I turned the fuel petcock. it took about another five minutes to shut off. was the VRO filling my carbs with oil during this time?<br /><br />so far, this furum has helped me immensely. I hope that my experiences give me something I can put back in return as I look over the posts in the future. thanks guys.
