ESA stalls engine

[derek4325]

Hello again, 1988 cobra 5.7 (standard not king). I had replaced my lower shift cable over the winter and i did it the proper way. Got all the correct measuring tools and lots of research. I'm pretty confident i installed and adjusted it properly. Goes from R to N perfect, N to Fwd perfect, but from Fwd to N it goes pretty hard sometimes. My ESA seems to be designed to work only from Fwd to N so there would be my trouble area. If i don't bypass the ESA, my engine will stall from Fwd to N. Why is this? My current idle assuming my tach is correct is between 5 and 600. I can set the idle lower since the exhaust is through hull so there is no back pressure. Is adjusting the idle up the way to fix this? Just seems counter productive, but if that's the only way to fix this problem then so be it. Also i should add that the previous owner installed a marine holley 4bbl. Not sure if that info is helpful. Thanks everyone

 

[alldodge]

The prop puts more load on the motor FWD then REV, so the motor needs to "stumble" a bit more to get it out of gear. The ESA makes the motor stumble by causing a miss-fire. This lowers the idle rpm and since your already idling low it stalls. I would up it another 50 rpm to see if that cures the issue

 

[Lou C]

On mine if I trigger the ESA with it running in neutral it will drop the rpm to approx. 450 rpm. Your engine has to be in good enough tune to run at this speed at least momentarily to allow the clutch dog to release. It should not be going hard from FWD to Neutral, it may be that the hard shift is keeping the ESA engaged long enough that it stalls the engine if not in perfect tune. Solve the hard shift to neutral and you will solve the stalling. Don't assume your dashboard tach is accurate, mine's off by 100 rpm (reads 100 rpm higher than it actually is).
Are you sure that the distance from the pin that retains the shift cable to the cable retainer in the load lever is correct? You need equal throw in both FWD and REV on either side of neutral. When I do the cable adjustments I make a mark on the cable where it comes out of the jacket with it in Neutral. (ENGINE OFF KEY OUT) Then I get someone to spin the prop and shift to Fwd, now make a mark on the cable right at the jacket. Do the same for Rev and measure the throw on either side of neutral.
Also, don't forget that once you have adjusted the transom shift cable using the tools, you still have to adjust the remote cable, to ensure you are getting equal travel in fwd and rev.

 

[derek4325]

On mine if I trigger the ESA with it running in neutral it will drop the rpm to approx. 450 rpm. Your engine has to be in good enough tune to run at this speed at least momentarily to allow the clutch dog to release. It should not be going hard from FWD to Neutral, it may be that the hard shift is keeping the ESA engaged long enough that it stalls the engine if not in perfect tune. Solve the hard shift to neutral and you will solve the stalling. Don't assume your dashboard tach is accurate, mine's off by 100 rpm (reads 100 rpm higher than it actually is).
Are you sure that the distance from the pin that retains the shift cable to the cable retainer in the load lever is correct? You need equal throw in both FWD and REV on either side of neutral. When I do the cable adjustments I make a mark on the cable where it comes out of the jacket with it in Neutral. (ENGINE OFF KEY OUT) Then I get someone to spin the prop and shift to Fwd, now make a mark on the cable right at the jacket. Do the same for Rev and measure the throw on either side of neutral.
Also, don't forget that once you have adjusted the transom shift cable using the tools, you still have to adjust the remote cable, to ensure you are getting equal travel in fwd and rev.

Thank you once again, Lou. I will do my best to check that out and if all seems to be in check ill up the idle a little bit in hopes that solves the issue. Part of my problem could also be the aftermarket carb someone put on. Too. Most importantly ill make sure the cables are adjusted properly first. But wouldn't the ESA not engaging be the cause of it shift hard out of gear? Like thats supposed to make it shift smoother right? To be clear it shifts fine when not in the water and under load.

 

[Lou C]

Correct in the water you must have the ESA functioning or else you will have very hard time getting it in neutral. The Holley 4bbl was actually used by OMC and Volvo (on the V8s they used the 4175 spread bore, on the V6s they used the 4160 with an adapter) after Quadrajet production ended.
When in the water, if you shift to neutral from either FWD or REV, you should see the tach dip momentarily and then come back up as soon at the clutch dog releases.

 

[derek4325]

On mine if I trigger the ESA with it running in neutral it will drop the rpm to approx. 450 rpm. Your engine has to be in good enough tune to run at this speed at least momentarily to allow the clutch dog to release. It should not be going hard from FWD to Neutral, it may be that the hard shift is keeping the ESA engaged long enough that it stalls the engine if not in perfect tune. Solve the hard shift to neutral and you will solve the stalling. Don't assume your dashboard tach is accurate, mine's off by 100 rpm (reads 100 rpm higher than it actually is).
Are you sure that the distance from the pin that retains the shift cable to the cable retainer in the load lever is correct? You need equal throw in both FWD and REV on either side of neutral. When I do the cable adjustments I make a mark on the cable where it comes out of the jacket with it in Neutral. (ENGINE OFF KEY OUT) Then I get someone to spin the prop and shift to Fwd, now make a mark on the cable right at the jacket. Do the same for Rev and measure the throw on either side of neutral.
Also, don't forget that once you have adjusted the transom shift cable using the tools, you still have to adjust the remote cable, to ensure you are getting equal travel in fwd and rev.

Okay so i just got done checking the cables. Transom cable there is an equal amount of throw, did what you said with a sharpie and measured with calipers. I also did the same thing with the control cable right above it and found that i had about 5/16 more throw in reverse. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but i do recall adjusting it a while back as it would slip out of gear in reverse. Never adjusted the fwd. So does everything add up here? And if so what would you suggest i do for the ESA? Bump up the idle a little like previously suggested?