Evinrude 200 won’t rev past 3000-3400

[JerEazy]

E200TXETD

as posted before here https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...ds/10802393-200-evinrude-losing-spark-at-3400

she won’t rev past that 3000 range - gets a little bouncy.

New coils, plugs, new power pack, I tried disconnecting the temp sensors on either side to see if there was a change, and there was not.

Could it be the carbs? Clogged high speed jets?

 

[JerEazy]

I pressed in the primer when the issue started and the engine bogged down, it did not pick up RPMs.

confirmed it’s sparking on all cyls with timing light hook to each wire while idling - was solo so was unable to do it when the issue was occurring.

i recently switched to a non-VRO style fuel pump. But I am going to swap the old pump back in tomorrow in order to confirm that’s not the issue.

The shift interrupt switch has the wires cut at the switch. There was some fraying of the connector for the black and yellow and black and orange wires under the power pack, so I cleaned them up and did a direct connect with but splices to rule out them grounding out and it didn’t solve the issue either. I’m a little stumped. And considering it’s really running great up till it hits this “rev limit” it’s incredibly frustrating.

Thanks again.

 

[oldboat1]

https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/1988_89_200_225.jpg

Is this similar to your wiring? The yellow wire appears to be related to a number of systems (VRO, port temp switch, regulator, maybe tach). If that wire is cut, perhaps there could be effects on one or more systems and sub-systems .

As may be obvious, I am no expert on wiring or wiring systems. But it does seem like your problems may have a less than obvious cause, and the cut wiring you reference may be a clue.

 

[JerEazy]

No sir - different harness and set up.

I went through my wiring diagram in the manual, but I’m not sure what might be causing the issue.

 

[JerEazy]

Some more info: the timer base is rotating freely. Timing is advancing under throttle. Throttle plates in carbs are opening and are open parallel at WOT.

also Re: the above wiring diagram, it does look similar in theory to what I have - but different than the manual.

 

[JerEazy]

Thanks for understanding why I’m posting a lot - I want to give as much info as possible for those who might have an idea - and anyone else experiencing problems. I found a lot of “my engine won’t rev past....” threads. But very few conclusions.

i watched this video this morning - and it has a great step by step at diagnosing a No Spark issue. That’s not my issue in particular. But, the testing procedure should be the same.


https://youtu.be/t-6FeYF7gKE

 

[Blakek25]

Have you confirmed if it is missing on one cylinder or all cylinders?

Have you checked the placement of the magnets on the flywheel or inspected the stator? You said the tach dropped to 0. A bad regulator/rectifier shouldn’t cause the engine to misfire, but a problem with the stator or magnets might be able to cause both issues. I would think this would affect all RPMs but worth a check. Magnets should be evenly spaced around the flywheel and none of them should be touching. Check the stator for discoloration of wire coils. Also check the magnets on the interior of the flywheel if you take the flywheel off.

Have you verified that the tach is accurate? It sounds a lot like it is going into SLOW. Your manual should have some testing procedures for the SLOW function.

I'm no expert, but just a few ideas.

 

[JerEazy]

I’m not sure what’s happening at the 3000 rpm level - but I have confirmed at idle that all cyls are sparking.

The flywheel eel is coming off this evening to fully check the stator and magnets. Also the power pack connections are all going to be re-confirmed.

I did test the SLOW as per CDI’s trouble shooting, no dice.

 

[racerone]

What colour are the orange / striped wires going from powerpack to each coil.----List them going from #1 to # 6.

 

[JerEazy]

top to bottom:
orange and blue
orange
orange and green

Tried putting the old fuel pump back in and no dice -

so im taking the flywheel off to check the key and the stator

 

[JerEazy]

I couldn’t get the flywheel off because the walls of my 36mm were too thick. 2 stops and no dice.

But, I was able to do a static ohm test on the stator, which (from what I’ve read) should read between 900-1000. Both failed. And upon closer inspection once the power pack was off, there is a collection of goo at the back end.

could the stator be causing this issue?

 

[dingbat]

could the stator be causing this issue?

Had a Merc 175 that shut down on me coming back in from offshore.

Ran fine util You hit 2500 rpm or. Long ride...... diagnosed as a stator. New stator...all good

 

[dingbat]

could the stator be causing this issue?

Had a Merc 175 that shut down on me coming back in from offshore.

Ran fine until you hit 2500 rpm or so.
Long ride...... diagnosed as a stator.

 

[JerEazy]

Now that I’m running through some more symptoms weak or no spark was one of my original concerns. My spark plug tester broke and I’ve yet to replace. So I was using an inductive timing light to confirm spark presence.

But if the spark is weak it could cause improper fuel burn, which would explain a little extra smoke and I burnt fuel in the exhaust at idle. And then when pressed for more it could quit and cause cut out. The symptoms make sense. My question is whether the regulator could also cause that issue? I’m getting a little jumpy tach... but not sure if that’s a symptom on these model engine. I’ll test that as best I can Sunday when my 36mm arrives. Boat is back at the storage lot for now.

Thanks for the ideas - and keep em coming!

 

[JerEazy]

Flywheel magnets came loose and were all slid together. The epoxy is curing now - and I’m hoping to get it on the water tomorrow or later this week to see if the issue is solved. I put the new stator on as well considering age and how it looked.

i have a new power pack arriving tomorrow that I’ll install if the issue isn’t solved with the magnets and stator.

 

[JerEazy]

That’ll do it. Granted (I know it’s wrong) I revved it in the hose to confirm - and it wouldn’t rev past the 3400 on the hose before. Seems like she’s fixed.

Water test will confirm this week or weekend. But let that hopefully be the lesson. Check under the flywheel for magnet position!

 

[JerEazy]

Water test confirms all is fixed.

5500 RPMs wide open and a nice cruise at 3500. There’s a “dead spot” in the throttle I’ll start another thread on.

tLDR: check your flywheel and all grounds!