Evinrude 80 Hp Starflite VIII

Bwana Don

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Hi All

I'm looking at an MFG Edinboro with an Evinrude Starflite VIII on it. It's an 80 horse and circa 1968???? How hard are these motors to work on and find parts for. He said it ran last year. I know famous last words. I can probably get the package for $700.

Opinions anyone. I appreciate any feedback.

Bwana Don
 

racerone

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If it is painted white in would be a 66 model.---Green paint would be a 67 model.------Easy motor to work on.----Just a bit thirsty at full throttle.
 

Bwana Don

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69760873_1785843624892789_7439023922361663488_n.jpg
 

Bwana Don

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Here is a pic. Is this an electric shift model? It also say Starflite VIII on the badge.
 

F_R

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I believe it is a 1966.
 

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Bwana Don

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Thank you, the brochure is great. I trust it's a standard magneto.

The boat is very classic. My 15 year old has saved his lawn mowing money and is wanting a 16' boat. We just scrapped out a Jupiter because it was too much work. All the corners, rub rails etc, were gone. I got it at a junk yard for $150 and back it went. Easy come easy go. Time for another boat. We boat in Lake St. Clair and the St. Clair river.
 

racerone

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Sorry ---For some reason I read JOHNSON in post #1.----Electric shift does not use a MAGNETO for ignition.----It has conventional battery , coil , points and condenser.----Careful running with those muff as the main water intake is that screen behind the propeller.
 

F_R

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Selectric shift sounds expensive to repair.

But does it need repair? They are just as durable as the old clutch dog system. Maybe more durable. The weak spots if any, would be old rotten wiring and the shift switch in the control. Those switches are getting hard to find and ???? if you do find one.
 

racerone

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Agreed-----The electric shift is very reliable / well engineered / and very simple.----That be my opinion.
 

jimmbo

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The drop-in Transom Brackets are from 67 - 68, they do give the ability to adjust the engine height, better than the earlier version

Edit:
Agree with F_R and Racer about the Electric Shift being Robust.

Just keep water from getting inside
 

Bwana Don

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I messaged the owner and asked him what kind of work he thinks it needs. I'll post his answer.

Ignition would be like my 68 Chevelle? Cap, rotor, coil, condenser. points? I could dig that. Been doing that since I was 12.

My kid is autistic and he is obsessed with getting a boat, it's insane. Originally he insisted on a running boat. We've restored 2 tinnies and have 4 outboards that need some repair around. lol He just wants to fish. Now, after seeing this Edinboro, he wants it. Even willing to work on the outboard or get a new outboard for it.
 

Bwana Don

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Thanks for all the input guys. Waiting for the owner to chime in. The last thing my kid said as he laid down tonight was "can we get that boat Saturday". Guarantee that will be the first word out of his mouth at 5:30 AM. Gotta love Autism and OCD.
 

jimmbo

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It is 53 yrs old. Do a compression check, check for water in the gear oil. If you buy it, first thing is to install a new Water Pump Impeller.
 

Bwana Don

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Sorry ---For some reason I read JOHNSON in post #1.----Electric shift does not use a MAGNETO for ignition.----It has conventional battery , coil , points and condenser.----Careful running with those muff as the main water intake is that screen behind the propeller.

Good to know. Shows you just how little I know about this motor. If we get this boat, I'll start a motor thread. I will need help to get it running correctly. I'll pop for a manual and parts book.
 

Joe Reeves

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$700 huh?... Well, if you don't buy it, let us know where it is. It won't be sitting there very long!

Get the model number of that engine to us.

Electric shift requires "Premium Blend" gearlube, also known as 'Type C".

Electric shift models are automotive type ignition, and equipped with an alternator.

Fuel pump is easy to rebuild... Kit # 379777

Carburetor is easy to clean... Adjustment setup as follows if needed.
********************
(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". The high speed jets would be located in back of the two bottom drain screws. Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).
********************
 

jimmbo

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Some specs on the 1966 80 HP

89.5 cubic inches
3 3/8" X 2 1/2" Bore and Stroke
80 HP @ 4500 rpm
WOT range 4000 - 5000 rpm
Battery Ignition system
2 bbl downdraft carb with Fixed Hi-Speed Jets, adjustable Low Speed Needles, Auto choke
Recirculating Temperature controlled Cooling System with Overheat Light
Hi Capacity AC to DC Regulated Charging System
Electric Shift
Gear Ratio 23:20
Prop Choices:
10 1/4 X 10
10 X 11
10 X 12
10 X 9 1/4
9 1/2 X 10
Approx 241 lbs

Here is a prop chart for the 80hp, consider it a guide line, but a Tach is the best way to chose a prop
Click image for larger version  Name:	PropSelector-80HP-JEGO-enhanced.jpg Views:	2 Size:	437.0 KB ID:	10803661
 
Last edited:

Bwana Don

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Well I'm a lot more comfortable with this now. I've always wanted an Edinboro, plus I think the old Evinrudes are sexy too. i have no problem putting some time and money into an old classic like this. My heart is with an aluminum Starcraft but, I made the kid a deal. If we get this I'll start a resto thread and we'll take pics and post. looking forward to another project with my kid. I tried to talk him into building a wooden boat, the Lumberyard skiff. He's not into it though. He's all about this MFG right now.

I'll let you guys know what happens.
Thanks
BD
 
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