Re: evinrude backfire after new powerpack and rebuilt carb and still will not ru
Re: evinrude backfire after new powerpack and rebuilt carb and still will not ru
Sorry, my last post wasn't intended to be a insult to your intelligence.<br /><br />A thought just occured to me about power (12v) being supplied to the powerpack at the proper times.<br /><br />The ignition switch actually has two "ON" positions...... the START position and the RUNNING (normal on) position. It is possible that 12v is only being supplied in the START position.<br /><br />With the ignition switch in the RUNNING (normal on) position, using a voltmeter, check to see that 12v is indeed being supplied to the powerpack in that normal running position. If there is no voltage to the pack with the key in that ON position, the pack will only fire when the starter is being engaged via the START position.<br /><br />One other thought..... The bakelite rotor has a notch, actually not a notch but more so a protruding key that keeps it aligned with the crankshaft. I've had a couple occasions whereas that notch/key had been broken off which in turn allows the rotor to move, throwing the timing off.<br /><br />The distance between the metal rotor and the ignition sensor should be set to a tight .028 . I'm playing on memory about the .028 setting as I don't have the manual in front of me but I believe that setting to be true.<br /><br />EDIT 04/05/04 - 09:18pm<br /><br />One other thing I thought of in the form of a test..... pulling from memory here.<br /><br />With the flywheel off and the distributor cap set aside and bakelite rotor removed, remove the high tension wire from the coil (power transformer), then unscrew the wire from the distributor cap.<br /><br />Now, insert the wire back into the coil (power transformer). With the key in the ON position, check to see that 12v is being applied to the powerpack. Hold the other brass screw end of the high tension wire 1/4" away from a ground... some area of the block. slide a feeler gauge back and forth across the sensor face that's attached to the timer base.<br /><br />Does that action make a hefty spark jump from the coil wire to the block/ground ?