Evinrude Electric shift

[PD99]

Help! I recently purchased a 1971 Evinrude 60HP with an ELECTRIC shift.
First time I tried to start it ( with earmuffs in the driveway ) at idle it was not in gear. Somewhere along the line of tinkering with it, it has locked into reverse. I have been told when the key is off, it is designed to engage reverse, when key is on - neutral. I purchased a manual, ( on CD and difficult to manuever in ) found a section instructing me to ohm the solenoids. They seem to fall in the 5 to 7 ohm range. The unit is still stuck in reverse.

Are the solenoids grounded to the casing?
Should I be able to apply voltage directly to the wires leading to the lower unit to make them operate?

Also, I removed the bolts, and the trim tab to the lower unit. It will not budge. Is this because it is stuck in reverse?

PD99

 

[Barnacle_Bill]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

With power off it defaults to Fwd not Reverse and it will stay there until the motor is running. Also be sure to use type "C" or premium oil in the lower unit.

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

Thanks for your reply Bill. I did purchase a manual, but it is on CD and difficult to find things.

I am able to get the motor running, but it stays in gear. Maybe it is forward, I was told it was reverse when the key is off.

Any ideas on removing the lower unit? I tried a rubber mallet, it didn't budge.

Mike

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

That is a hydro-electric gearcase, and the motor need to be running in order to shift. It defaults to forward gear. There are two wires to control the shifting; one green and one blue. Forward is no voltage on either wire. Neutral is voltage only on green. Reverse is voltage on both green and blue.
I would suggest measuring the voltage at the shift switch first and go from there. You can apply voltage directly to the wires.
I wouldn't mess with the gearcase at all until you troubleshoot the wiring. The gearcase is pretty complicated on these motors and you really don't want to tinker with it if you don't have to:

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

Commander, thanks for the help, and the diagram.

I believe now, the motor is actually stuck in forward.
Understand how it is supposed to work will help me with the troubleshooting.

When I had it running in the driveway, after a very short period of time, it got hot. Thinking at least it needs a new impeller.

Will attempt more on Wednesday, including removing the lower unit.

Thanks again.

Mike

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

A hint:
when you drop the lower unit, tie a long string to the (disconnected) shift wires and let the string get pulled through with the wires. Then use the string to pull the wires back up when you're done.

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

It does help to know there is another bolt underneath the trim tab. Amazing how easily the lower unit comes off now, lol.

The impeller was very hard and had two tips broken off.
An O-ring was split, and a coil spring? came out too.

I dipped a screwdriver into the casing, surprised at how clear the oil was.
Not sure yet on how to know if there is enough.

Gaining on this a little at a time.

PD99

 

[F_R]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

What are you doing dipping a screwdriver in the oil? Did you remove the solenoids in order to get the gearcase off? That isn't how it is done. Or are you just looking? Good luck.

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

I have not yet removed the solenoids. I was going to check from the ignition back first. Next step after that is to replace the impeller. Any advice on that? New kit, or just the impeller?

As far as the screwdriver stunt, I simply put a small clean screwdriver into what I believe is called the vent hole, to see what the oil looked like.

Mike

 

[Barnacle_Bill]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

Before you remove the solenoids check the voltage going to them and make sure its right. You can check the solenoids with an ohm meter without removing them.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

You know that you have enough gear oil when you fill the gear case from the bottom and put enough in, for it to run out of the vent hole. The capacity is 25.3 fluid ounces. You must use "Type C" or an equivalent fluid. I recommend iboats, which has Sierra brand Type C, in 32 ounce bottles.



???

 

[F_R]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

I have not yet removed the solenoids. I was going to check from the ignition back first. Next step after that is to replace the impeller. Any advice on that? New kit, or just the impeller?

As far as the screwdriver stunt, I simply put a small clean screwdriver into what I believe is called the vent hole, to see what the oil looked like.

Mike

Oh, ok. Just wondered what the heck you were up to. Don't be removing the solenoids unless they fail the electrical test. There is nothing to see or do in there, unless they are rusted from water in the gearcase. In that event, you have a lot more to worry about than the solenoids.

You should do a thorough electrical check before even considering any possibility of problems in the gearcase. That would have been easier before you removed it. Best done with a voltmeter on the blue and green wires. Should show battery voltage on green when in neutral, on both green and blue when in reverse, and neither when in forward. Repeat the test a whole bunch of times to eliminate chance of an intermittant problem. Test is done with wires still connected.

You had better hope the oil is very clean. When those things hang up in neutral or reverse, it is caused by microscopic metal wear particles in the oil. Stuff you can't even see. If the oil is visibly dirty, it is too late--should have been changed long ago. There is a good reason they say to change the oil regularily.

As for the water pump, if it still has the original metal pump housing, it is best to update it by installing a complete new water pump kit, which includes a plastic housing with stainless steel liners. You have to get it from an Evinrude dealer. If somebody has already updated it, all you need is an impeller.

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

Ok, checked out wiring from ignition back to wires which connect to lower unit. Key on, no 12 volts to one. Forward button pushed, no voltage to either. Neutral button pushed 12 volts to one. Reverse button pushed 12 volts to both. This appears to be correct.

The lower unit is off, still intact with the exception of removal of the water pump. I ohmed the solenoids, both are at solid 5.9 ohms to casing. The manual states this means solenoids should be good.

On another note, why do I hear whine/whistle with the key on?
May be coming from the starter? Is this bad?

Mike

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

I think maybe my post got lost in the weekend shuffle?

My new water pump won't be in until Wednesday. Plan to install it on Thursday. Going to put it all back together and see what happens.

Any ideas on the whine/whistle from the starter when the key is on?

Mike

 

[PD99]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

Ok, scratch the Wednesday installation of the water pump. Local supplier priced the impeller kit only. Few more days wait now on the whole kit.

I did remove the drain plug today. Oil is definitely "milky brown". Funny how the screwdriver dipped into vent hole had clear oil.

Still no ideas on the starter whistling/whining?

Is anyone getting this post anymore?

Mike

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Evinrude Electric shift

There should be no noise from the starter when it is not cranking, because there is (supposed to be) no voltage on it.