Evinrude Strangler 135

[Islandlaker]

I just purchased a Evinrude Stranger 135, must be either a 1974 or 75. I am going to put it on my 17 ft bass boat. This engine runs like a champ I was very impressed by the speed it was able to get on a old heavy deep 18ft crestliner, I got the package for 900$ but I don't think the boat is worth anything. There are two issues with the motor I would like some advice on. The biggest issue is that the electric choke doesn't work. To cold start it I have to pop the cowling off and manually choke it. Is this an easy repair? The other issue is there is no electric trim on this boat. How much work is it too hook up a electric trim to this thing? I have a seized 1997 115 mercury laying around that has a working electric trim. Is this something I could pull off the Mercury and put on the evinrude?

 

[interalian]

Do you have 12V to the choke solenoid when you press the key? If so and the solenoid doesn't move, it's bad and can be replaced. If no 12V, trace your wiring back looking for the break.

Retrofitting a primer system off an ~'80 and newer makes them a lot easier to start. You can find most if not all the parts here.

Trim/tilt for that vintage was external, and, I think, tilt only. Others will chime in.

 

[Islandlaker]

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check it out with the meter tomorrow when I put the engine on the newer boat. I am intrigued by the retrofitting for a newer primer system.

 

[oldboat1]

You can get a good aftermarket t. and t. unit, but it will cost about what you have into the rig. If a tilt assist would be of use, Garelick makes a manual lift handle that should work with your 135. They work well.

 

[interalian]

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check it out with the meter tomorrow when I put the engine on the newer boat. I am intrigued by the retrofitting for a newer primer system.

Need 12V either way, so check that first. I put my '82 primer system on the '79 carbs that used to be choke type. Had to drill the carb body and fit the nipples from the newer carbs. Works like a charm.

 

[flyingscott]

T/N/T for that motor is NLA. My advice would be find a CMC PT 130 for that motor be easier and parts are still available for it and if you buy new it has a warranty.

 

[Islandlaker]

Yeah, I don't want to put a bunch of money into a tilt and trim. It is easy enough to move it up and down. It was just nice with the other motor to be able to lift the engine with a finger tip. I was just hoping I could salvage something from that mercury. I am assuming there is already a write up on the converting to the newer primer style. I will start searching for that.

 

[jimmbo]

It was offered in 1974 http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...nrude.html#/16. and in 1975 http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...nrude.html#/14

Power trim was an option in 74 and 75, and it was external to the transom bracket with hydraulic rams on both sides. here's what it looked like on a silver 135 http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...inrude.html#/4. http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...inrude.html#/0

As mentioned it would be easier to get an aftermarket trim system

If you can find them a set of heads from a 1973 135 are a very much desired item. Highest compression heads ever put on the 99.6 block

 

[Islandlaker]

Great pics of the carb work Interalian! I am definitely going to look into doing that. Flying I will look into the CMC PT 130 thanks.

 

[Islandlaker]

Wow thanks for all the advice guys. This forum is awesome! Happy fourth of July guys. Headed to a BBQ now so I will have to save my internet searching for later. You guys have any experience with the strangler? I haven't found a whole lot of info online. I will definitely check out those heads from 1973 too!

 

[flyingscott]

You may find one used they show up once in a while look on craigslist. One other thing MIGHT be possible RACERONE or somebody else might know this a newer 78/79 4 cylinder center section might fit on yours. This will get you a factory tilt and trim unit like I said somebody might know this. I forgot to answer your question about the mercury tilt and trim will it not fit your motor.

 

[jimmbo]

The only difference the Strangler and the other 135s was the paint and decals.

 

[Islandlaker]

Hey guys, just wanted to update I ended up having to replace the solenoid that operates the choke. But the electric choke works great now! Thanks for the help everyone. I am still without tilt/trim. I found one on ebay but the guy wanted 300 bucks for power tilt only and 600 bucks for tilt/trim. I think I would rather pay the 500 for the CMC tilt/trim. I am patient though so I will wait a little bit longer and see if something else comes up.

Another issue arose today, I think the shift cable broke. I have a little excess shift cable and when I had to move it around a little to fit an extra battery in. I don't know if I bumped the batter to hard on the cable and maybe broke it or if it was just too old worn and it finally gave. After the shift cable stopped working I moved it around again and it worked for a couple shifts. When playing around with it at the house I could feel the cable twitching a lot by the controls but the further I got to the motor the less I could feel the cable moving. Also it seemed like the more I played with it the less reaction I got from the cable leading me to think that some linkage on the inside is frayed and getting worse. What do you guys think? Broken shift cable or maybe something else? The cables do say Dec87 on them. I am guessing that is a manufacture date.

 

[flyingscott]

Disconnect the shifter cable from the motor and pull if it broke it will come out. If it stays look at the shifter box.

 

[Islandlaker]

I am a little confused. Should I pull from the motor end and away from the controls? I have done this and it is still in place, also I don't feel anything broken on the cable when I feel it. I took the cover off the control box and that looks like it is moving as it should. I am completely confused by this. Shifted great until I moved some cable and wires around in the back of the boat to make room for an extra battery. The metal piece on the motor itself that the throttle cable is supposed to shift is movable if I use a pair of pliers and manually move it.

 

[Islandlaker]

Quick update, pulled the control cables off the motor. The throttle cable moves at the end very obviously I can see the end piece expanding and contracting. On the shift cables there is no expansion or contraction on the end piece at all. Cheapest fix is if it is the cable, so I ordered a new one. If that doesn't fix it I am guess I will have to replace the control box.