Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version 8

[Pannet]

Dear friends,<br /><br />I've just own an Evinrude V4 140 hp 1990 without a manual. I would like to ask about warning alarm if it will come in the future so I can manage it.<br /><br />1. Which problem(s) cause the alarm to operate ? ( I know that oil problem cause by VRO pump failure is one of the problem )<br /><br />2. The tone of the alarm will be the same for every type of problem or it will be different? ( Like Beep... or Beep-Beep-Beep )<br /><br />3. I have found that there are 2 wires on the autolube reservior tank that is not connected when I've got the boat. Where can I connect these wires so the alarm will work ?<br /><br />4. My motor is hard to start if not use for 3-4 days. Choke won't help ( I may do it wrong. What is the correct way to choke ?)Have to prime carb with premix gas and it will start easily. But once it start it runs great. No problem with idle or high RPM. What I should look for ?<br />I have found that inside the carb cover there is a fuel tube that is pluged by a screw at it's end. Is this the original system or the previous owner had modified something ?<br /><br />My shop manual and user manual is on the way from the US. Once I've them, I may ask fewer question.<br /><br />Thank you.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet....Warning Alarm System is as follows: 1 - Overheating = A constant steady beep. 2 - Low Oil Level (1/4 tank) = A beep every twenty (20) seconds. 3 - A oil restriction, air in oil line, VRO failure (improper lubrication) = A beep every other second.<br /><br />The tone (sound and volume) will be the same. It is the time span and amount of beeps that vary as above.<br /><br />The two wires from the oil tank... They are supposed to lead back to the engine whereas the one with the bolt terminal would connect to ground. The one with the knife connector would connect to a like knife connector that should exist close to the large "Red" electrical plug on the engine side of that plug.<br /><br />If you can't find that knife connector at the engine for some reason or if those wires have been cut too short, you may connect the ground wire to any known ground, and the knife connector lead from the oil tank to the tan wire that leads to the warning horn.<br /><br />To start the engine properly... Have the engine in the normal running position. Pump the fuel primer bulb until it is hard. Push the key in and turn it at the same time to engage the starter. Hold the key in until the engine fires, then release it. Holding the key in is the same as holding a choke toggle switch in the choke position. If it isn't in, you aren't choking (priming) the engine.<br /><br />DO NOT pump the oil primer bulb. The only time you need to pump the oil bulb is if the oil tank is dry, refilled, and it needs to be primed to get lubricant to the VRO etc. Once the oil system is setup, leave it alone as pumping it every time you attempt to start the engine will load the carbs with pure oil!<br /><br />The hose that's plugged with a screw inside the carb face plate? I can't think of any reason for that and have checked my books just to be sure. Inspect that closely and get back to us. Is that a small hose leading from the fuel primer solenoid...what?

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Thank you very much Joe. Tomorrow I will go back to the boat and find a place to hook the Autolube tank's sensor. I will also open the carb cover and look closely to the hose inside. If my memory is good, the pluged (occluded) hose that I mentioned may be connected to a 4 or 5 ways connector that locate at the lower part inside the carb cover. ( I will look at it again tomorrow for sure.) I guess this may be part of the primer injection system ? But why it is occluded ? Is this the answer of my hard to start when not using for few days ? I do start the engine like you have suggested.<br /><br />I have more questions for you.<br /><br />1. If the alarm for oil problem (quick beep) is on and we stop the engine immediately. Will there be any damage to the engine ? After we stop the engine and switch to premix fuel from a spare tank, can we restart the engine to return to the shore while the alarm still on ?<br /><br />2. If the alarm for overheat is on and we stop the engine immediately, will there be any damage to the engine ? I have one experience when the water plants (weed) stuck to the prop and also occluded the water inlet. I stopped the engine immediately but at that time I did not know what the alarm meant but the engine head was not so hot both banks and there was no bad smell or smoke. After I pulled all plants off and wait 10 minutes, the alarm went off. I started the engine. It started easy and ran normal. The water came out OK.<br /><br />3. What is the normal reading from the water pressure guage ? Mine reads 5-10 when idle and low rpm and 15 (middle of the guage) at 3000 rpm up.<br /><br />4. Yesterday the tilt-trim motor was not working properly. It could go up only. I checked the relays and swap the two relays. It then go down not up. I think one of the relay is bad. My problem is the spare part is hard to find here and may have to wait for 30+ days. I plan to find an automotive relay with the same spec (12V 40A) but may need to make an adaptor wires. Will this be OK ?<br /><br />5. How we know that the mixing ratio from the VRO is OK ? Can we take sample of the mixed fuel and wait until the gas evaporated to see the ratio ?<br /><br />Thank you again Joe. I'm a doctor not an engineer but I love mechanics very much. My books is coming. I plan to do some minor jobs by myself when I have the books.

 

[Franki]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

I can't answer all of those, but a couple I can..<br /><br />The oil alarm doesn't just go off when its completely out of oil, it goes of at low levels in the tank.. so as long as you keep checking, you may not need the premix at all.<br /><br />If you get the engine overheat and the oil obstruction warning, then how long till damage depends on what rpms you are doing and how long it takes you to kill the engine.<br /><br />but I'd guess 15-30 seconds at WOT would be enough to start damaging things... If the paint on the head is burning, then your rings probably no longer have alot of tension. as far as the oil goes.. If you are that worried, run the motor on extremely weak premix.. 1:100 or 1:150 at least doing that it will take longer to damage anything. (but don't run all the way home just on that.) you'll use abit more oil, you'll have a bit more smoke, but you'll also have piece of mind...<br /><br />I hooked my alarm up to a car horn via a relay, I really want to hear that thing when it goes off.. (my alarm is heat only, I was toying with the idea of hooking that via a relay to the main ignition, so that it cuts the ignition when it overheats by itself..<br /><br />As for your relays, you are right, one of the relays are dead.. if you can find a heavy duty sealed auto relay, then you shouldn't have any problem... when I got my motor, it had no relays at all.. I put the ones I used to use way back when I did car alarms in it.. (we used them for cutting the main ignition/starer wiring under the steering column.) worked great for me.<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Thank you Franki.<br /><br />I will follow some of your advices. If no oil or overheat condition can damage the engine rapidly at high rpm, may be I will design a system to kill the engine automatically when the temperature rise too high or low oil pressure or low water pressure. (I'm also love electronics.) I'm not sure that my engine has some system like this already or it is too old.<br /><br />Thanks.

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Just want to post some more questions.<br /><br />1. At what temperature will the thermostat open ? Mine open very soon after the engine first start. May be because the temperature in Thailand is hot. I have checked the thermostat. It looks OK. How to know that it is bad ? If it is bad, it will stay close or it will stay open ? Can we permanently separate the pee hole to see that the water do pass both sides ?<br /><br />2. What type of thermo sensors (for alarm) this engine use ? If they are thermo couples, can we also hook them to a meter for temperature readout ?<br /><br />3. What is a proper running temperature ?<br /><br />Thanks

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

The no oil alarm sounds off before any damage is possible. As long as you shut the engine down within 30 seconds or so, you will be safe in switching to a pre-mix if you desire.<br /><br />Also, the overheat alarm sounds off way before the heat range gets to a point whereas it could cause damage. No need for concern there.<br /><br />The water pressure gauge is a item where my knowledge is limited, but the readings you stated sound fine.<br /><br />The PTT problem is caused by a relay as you suspected. The part number and the superceeded numbers follow. You may use any of the numbers: 582472-->584416-->586147-->586224. They list for about $18.00 ea. If you can't locate them, contact me at ReevesJ32@aol.com and we can arrange to have a couple shipped to you. Remind me in the e-mail what were talking about (I lose track). I'd advise against rigging up some sort of conversion as this always leads from one thing to another, and eventually you have a real mixture of parts on your hands.<br /><br />You ask "How we know that the mixing ratio from the VRO is OK ?"... You can take a sample of fuel from the carburetor side of the VRO pump. The fuel should have a tint that would reflect the color of the oil. Also... you could smear or drop a bit of the fuel on a piece of pure white paper. The fuel would evaporate quickly but the oil would still be there which would stain the paper and be slippery.<br /><br />The thermostats are normally set to open at 148° but may vary slightly. The only way to know if a thermostat is operating as it should is to have a container of water at a known temperture and observe the thermostat when you submerge it. If they're bad, they normally stay in the open position.<br /><br />You can not rearrange the water telltale outlet. That is simply a pressure outlet which is taken off of the water portion of the exhaust baffle plate, not the cylinder heads.<br /><br />I have no idea as to exactly what type of sensors the engine has except that they are called heat sensors and one exists in each cylinder head (the tan wire). You can not hook them up to a meter...that requires a heat gauge kit (meter, wire, "L" bracket, and sender). I do not have that kit in stock.<br /><br />The running temperture is going to be dependent on the thermostats. You can tell pretty much what is going on by laying your hands on the top etc of the cylinder heads and comparing the temperture by feel. The large plate between the cyl heads (exhaust baffle plate) should be warm but not extremely hot.... you should be able to hold your hand on that plate (hsg).

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Thank you very much Joe.<br /><br />Today I have a closer look at my carb. Under the carb cover, the fuel hose that should lead to the primer solinoid was pluged by a screw by previous owner. From the primer solinoid, there are two small hoses each leads to 2 carbs. The primer solinoid intake is not connected. I remove primer solinoid and disassemble it and found that the plastic center core is melted and there is no plunger inside. I guess it was burnt so the previous owner disconnect the primer system. That is why the engine have difficulty starting after leaving unuse for a few days and need to spray fuel at the carb to start.<br /><br />Questions:<br /><br />1. Without primer system, can we only use the bulb to fill the carb's cup?<br /><br />2. Why the primer solinoid is melted ?<br /><br />3. I measure voltage from the solinoid lead and the ground after remove the solinoid, it read 12V even when the key is off. Is this normal ? This mean the solinoid coil has voltage supply all the time ?<br /><br />4. At this moment, I connect a manual fuel valve, one end to the hose that use to connect to the primer solinoid and the other end to a Y-connector that connect to the two hoses that use to come out from the primer solinoid, to create a manual priming system while order a new solinoid. Is this OK? Will the new solinoid be melted again ?<br /><br />I've just received my shop manual and user manual today ( from the US ). There are a lot of informations in the 2 books. I will read them all and will ask fewer question soon.<br /><br />Thank you.

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Dear Joe,<br /><br />For the autolube tank that I've found two sensor wires not connected, I hook one wire to the tan wire located close to the big red connector and another wire to ground as you had suggested. Once I turned the key on, the alarm sound continuously. I try to swap between two wires, the alarm stop. I think this may be O.K. so I leave it connect this way. The autolube is nearly full now. I will wait and monitor closely to see that the low oil alarm will come or not. What is your suggestion ? Is there any diode inside the autolube tank ?<br /><br />Thank you very much.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet.... By the "carbs cup", I assume that you're speaking of the carburetor float chamber. That chamber is filled by pumping the fuel primer bulb. The primer solenoid assy (when engaged) causes fuel to flow through those two small hoses to a point in back of the carburetor butterfly and directly into the intake plate (intake leaf valve) area, not into the carburetor.<br /><br />The primer solenoid melted due to the fact that someone had wired the engine wrong at some point which caused 12 volts to be applied to the solenoid constantly instead of only when engaged purposely.<br /><br />From what you've said, this is still the case. I assume the ignition switch is wired wrong or the primer solenoid wire is attached to a wrong terminal, etc. At any rate, find out why 12v is applied constantly and correct it.<br /><br />The manual valve setup you're using will work, just so you;re careful not to leave it in the on position which will flood the engine quickly.<br /><br />I do have one new solenoid assy left in stock. A $69.00 item which I will sell for $50.00 if you have a problem locating it elsewhere.<br /><br />Remember to correct that solenoid wiring problem as failure to do so will result in another melted solenoid.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet..... Pertaining to the oil tank warming system, and having the warning horn sound off when the wires are connected in one direction.<br /><br />I have no idea as to the circuitry within the oil tank. I would suggest this test to make sure you have it right.<br /><br />Siphon or dump the oil in the tank into another container leaving the oil tank empty. Now, connect those two wires in one direction. If the horn sounds constanty, reverse them. If the warning sounds every twenty (20) seconds, consider those connections correct. While the warning is sounding off every twenty (20) seconds, pour the oil back into the tank. The warning sound should cease.

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Dear Joe,<br /><br />I will check for the solinoid wiring tomorrow, starting from the remote control to the engine. I use OMC remote control. The wiring inside the engine hood, in general, seems O.K. Should be original. No sign of re-wiring. Do you have any suggestion on which wire (color) I should check ?<br /><br />Thank you very much.

 

[almost retired again]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Hello pannet,<br />Maybe I can help you with the wireing. The key switch should have 6 terminals. They should be labeled B= where the 12 volts comes in , usually red/purple or red, another labeled S= this is the terminal that goes from the key switch, thru the neut, safty switch then to the starter solenoid,There should be 2 M terminals one should have a black wire, and the other (somethimes a taller terminal) should have a black/yellow wire this wire goes to the power pack and kills the ign. The next is the C terminal this should have a purple/white wire this wire goes to the primmer solenoid to activate it. The last terminal should be labeled A this terminal is for any accessories that may run off of the key switch.<br />Lots of luck hope this helps

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet.... As Almost Retired Again states, the wire that actuates the primer solenoid is Purple with a White stripe. Your service manual should have a wiring diagram within it, but I'm assuming that you haven't had time to study it yet.

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Dear Joe & Almost Retired Again,<br /><br />1. Today I have disassemble the remote control unit and found that the ignition key is bad. The wiring is OK. I disconnected all wire from the key and test the key. The "C" terminal for the primer solenoid had 12V when the key was turned on (no need to push). The terminal was loose so there might be something broke inside and caused short circuit. I will change the ignition key together with the solenoid valve. It's good that local dealer here have both of them in stock.<br /><br />2. Regarding the sensor wires from the auto lube tank, I have learnt from the diagram from the manual that the single female connector located close to the big red connector is attach to the thermo switch wire. This connector (tan wire), when grounded, the overheat alarm (continuous tone) will on. What is this connector ? I'm not sure that we can hook the auto lube sensor wire here. What do you suggest? I cannot find other free connector elsewhere.<br />In the diagram, they don't mention about the autolube sensor wires.<br /><br />Thank you for your help.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet... You said "I have learnt from the diagram from the manual that the single female connector located close to the big red connector is attach to the thermo switch wire. This connector (tan wire), when grounded, the overheat alarm (continuous tone) will on. What is this connector ? I'm not sure that we can hook the auto lube sensor wire here"<br /><br />The tan wire you speak of is a common alarm wire. Every alarm that would sound (constant, every 20 seconds, every other second) ties in at the "Tan" wire. Study the wiring diagram futher and you'll see that you are perfectly safe in hooking the oil tank warning system to that tan wire close to the large red electrical connector. I kept refering to the tank wiring connector as a knife connection (a error on my part). Your engine (the tank wiring portion) would normally have a regular hole type terminal which would be a ground connection, and the other connection for the oil tank sender/sensor would normally be a "Male" type plug connection that would insert into the female connection at the red plug area. I still recommend checking for the proper alarm as per my previous suggestion (dump the oil tank, etc).

 

[Pannet]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Dear Joe,<br /><br />I will do the test tomorrow.<br />As you said the tan wire is a common alarm wire, how the alarm circuit knows which sensor is activated ? ( so it will sound differently ) I think the auto lube tank's sensor has diode connected to it ( tested with a multi-meter ) and wander if there will be a circuit inside the sensor to ground the sender wire intermittently causing a slow beep ? ( Sorry ...I'm just a thinker during the learning period.)<br /><br />Thank you.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Re: Evinrude V4 140 HP 1990 Warning Alarm Questions and Other Questions. Version

Pannet.... The difference in the time span and amount of beeps pertaining to the different warnings is the result of:<br /><br />1 - Heat sensors when grounded (overheated) cause a steady alarm (beeping).<br /><br />2 - Fuel restriction (std on some models) if actuated also result in a grounding that cause a steady alarm (beeping).<br /><br />3 - Low oil in the tank causes a beep every 20 seconds due to the circuitry within the oil tank.<br /><br />4 - A beep every other second is caused by the circuitry within the back portion of the VRO pump if it has a problem.<br /><br />Bottom line is that the alarm is varied by the component generating the alarm, whichever one might be affected that is connected to that tan wire.