Exaust pipe change 180 (470)

Benny67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
571
I'm gonna ask a stupid questions that I know the answer to but want to see if MAYBE someone else has done it.

I suspect that my port exhaust pipe is leaking. I have the tell tale signs of water in the bilge when I run the engine on muffs and can see some crud next to the pipe where it appears wet..

I am preparing to dig into it this morning it before I do I wanted to post a question to see if anyone has successfully pulled an engine without removing the drive.

My hope is to just slide the engine forward far enough to remove the pipe and change it and slide it right back in place

I've done the job before and do not think it can be done with the drive in.
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I was wondering if anyone has just slid the engine forward with the drive still attached and changed the pipe and slid the engine back over the driveshaft with any success?

Input?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
Can you pull an engine without removing the drive , Absolutely YES , Can you reinstall it , YES.
Can you expect the alignment to be correct so you dont have to pull the motor again to replace the coupler, NO
Cost of coupler if you can find one $200+ ,cost of a drive mounting gasket $7.00
 

Benny67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
571
My thought was to remove the whole front engine mount from the stringers so I only had to worry about the rear alignment..

I don't think I'm going to chance it
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Yeah you know the answer. Just pull the drive. Takes about 15 min. While it is off, check the gimbal bearing, lube the u-joints and change the impeller. Then align the outdrive when you put it back on. Otherwise you’ll be sorrrrry 😳
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,440
Also, if your front mounts are lag screw attached to the stringers, Don't remove them unless they're shot. If you can successfully remove one of four of those lags without with twisting it off, you'd be very lucky. And an easy-out is useless. The only fix I've found is a deep hole saw cut around the stub, then hammer and chisel until you can get a vise grip on it. Then a well-epoxied oak plug, and more epoxy on top. All with the engine removed -
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,326
I do not remember ever seeing the aluminum riser pipe leak, are you talking about the rubber hose between the exhaust elbow and the riser pipe?
 

Benny67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
571
Yeah you know the answer. Just pull the drive. Takes about 15 min. While it is off, check the gimbal bearing, lube the u-joints and change the impeller. Then align the outdrive when you put it back on. Otherwise you’ll be sorrrrry 😳

Already changed it and reinstalled the drive a week ago.

Just found the leak when I was doing my final once over before the mover came.

Saved myself $1k by not moving it then having to pull it out again.

Kenny

I've seen a few pipes rot aand leak. This boat had this issue on the other engine 2 years ago
 

Benny67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
571
I do not remember ever seeing the aluminum riser pipe leak, are you talking about the rubber hose between the exhaust elbow and the riser pipe?

Well Kenny...here's your first look at a rotten pipe. Fresh out of my carver
 

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Benny67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
571
It appears that I was correct. The pipe is badly corroded and has a few holes in it. Luckily it didn't rot the aluminum on the mating mount.

I had purchased an extra pipe when my other one went bad 2 years ago with the intention of changing both pipes but after changing the first one I thought , what are the chances of both pipes having the same problem? Well, I should have just listened to my initial instincts and changed both at the same time. It DID go 2 more seasons but almost ruined this one.

Anybody out there with this problem with a twin screw change BOTH... don't do just the one that's bad cause the other is not far behind.

One more thing.

I have everything back together and all I need to do is realign the motor. When I pulled the motor, I just removed the lag screws holding the front mount to the stringers and the rear bolts holding it to the transon bracket. After re assembly, I slid my alignment bar in and it slid right into place with a very small amount of effort. If you take it back out it looks centered with the gimbal bearing. I'm assuming that it's aligned properly. Am I correct in assuming this?
 
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