Fastwin won't start 😡

[Parrothead71]

I picked up a 1966 Fastwin 18hp over the weekend. The guy said it ran last year but he couldn't get it going this spring.
I took the bowl off of the carb and cleaned everything, the float was stuck on the pin. It took a bit but I got gas to go through the pump and into the carb.
When I'm trying to start it the engine pops out the exhaust some of the time but it also act like it wants to start.
According to the seller he had points replaced 2 years ago along with a bunch of other misc. stuff.

Any ideas? I don't know much about setting up points so if that's it I'll need some guidance.

Thank you

 

[boobie]

First thing, check the compression. Then check the spark. It should jump a 1/4 " open air gap on a spark tester.

 

[Parrothead71]

It pulls over hard like it has good compression but I'll do a real check on that and for good spark in the next couple days.

Thanks

 

[Michawilden]

Also check the coils, cracked coils can provide a good spark but at the wrong timing. This gives you the idea that your ignition is good while it isn't.

 

[Parrothead71]

Will I need a special puller for the flywheel or once unbolted will it simply lift off?

 

[racerone]

You need a puller and 3 bolts to remove the flywheel.-----It does not simply lift off.-----The flywheel taper is stretched onto the crankshaft taper for a locking fit !----It may require a hefty bump from a hammer on the center bolt once the puller is tight.

 

[Parrothead71]

Kind of thought so but figured I'd ask so as to be prepared.
Thank you

 

[Parrothead71]

Ok so I checked compression.......100 psi in each cylinder
In had spark but not very good......so I pulled the flywheel and here is what I found......

1. The coils are rubbing on one side of the flywheel....they look new
2. The points look newer but dirty

When trying to start it the rubbing was turning the throttle down while pulling the rope.
The nylon drive dog is shot too

Ok I'm trying to upload some pictures but they are all too large.

 

[Parrothead71]

I tried adjusting the coils and I think I got them so they don't rub anymore.
Now I was going to check the timing and the points but I can't get the timing marks to lineup when the points are open.
Should it be at WOT or start or........or does it matter?

 

[lindy46]

Adjust points when the rubbing block is at the high point on the cam. Usually coincides with the flywheel key. Set points to .020". Then turn crank 180 degrees and adjust the other set of points. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN those points. Use a point file or 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper, followed by acetone applied to a strip of business card stock. Replace flywheel and check spark with a $10 spark tester. Spark should jump a 1/4" gap with a snappy blue-white spark. Make sure you have the front-most coil wire going to the top spark plug/cylinder.

 

[Parrothead71]

ITS ALIIIIIIIIIVVE!!!!
Card rebuild
New points and condensers.......adjusted the coils also.
New slow speed mixture needle

Runs pretty good but needs some more adjustment.

I do however have a lot of bubbles in the fuel line from the pump to the carb..... Pump need a rebuild?

 

[oldboat1]

sounds like progress. Might be getting air in the line at the clamp (might want to replace fuel lines which you are at it). The plastic outlet on your pump might also be cracked, and could have a problem with the diaphragm. I think that pump is NLA, though if that's the case it can be replaced with one of the little modern square pumps. In any case, I would check the clamps first, then go from there.

 

[Parrothead71]

No Title

Here is the one I have on it now

 

[oldboat1]

well, can check and clear the filter. Then might replace the fuel lines and clamps, and see what you have. Think you should be able to blow through the pump (in to out), but not the other way around -- not sure how dependable that is. If it's otherwise running OK, might snug things up and see what you have. The replacement is the small square pump -- check on iBoats under the 1968 18hp. Should be available as a oem pump or aftermarket.

 

[Parrothead71]

Took it for a spin today, not to bad. Didn't want to idle and when it did stall it was a bit difficult to restart. I think I still have a vacuum leak around the slow speed mixture screw and I'm going to recheck the points and that the coils aren't still hitting the flywheel.

 

[oldboat1]

sounds like progress. Standard test for the fuel pump is too squeeze the primer bulb when the motor acts up. If operation improves, points to a pump issue. The starting issue isn't usually related to the pump, though I guess it could be if you run the carb dry (stalls), and starts again after priming with the bulb.

If back in with the points, clean them with some acetone or similar (matchbook cover works), and regap to .020. Not sure what to make of the suspected leak at the mixture needle. Need one or two needle washers, and need to snug up the gland nut to make sure the needle doesn't rattle loose after it's set.