firing order

[getinmerry]

I searched this forum, but didn't get any results. Here's the problem: I got a Chrysler 20hp 1968 (model #2001) from a friend. The motor needs work, but I want to run it before sinking any money into it. It had no spark, so I pulled the points and re-dressed them. Plenty of spark now.

Here's the question: I'm not sure which wire goes to which cylinder. One of the wires has a white band on it. Is the banded one for the top or bottom cylinder?

I tried both configurations, but neither seemed to work. All I got were "pops"- no running. I didn't want to push my luck and keep trying, so I figured I'd ask here. I don't feel like eating a face full of flame if I get it backwards.

Thanks,
Chuck

 

[steelespike]

Re: firing order

I think the band is on the top wire.
You might carefully turn the crank until the top cylinder is at tdc.
then check which points are opened.The gap needs to be set very carefully
with the flywheel key used to indicate the highest point of the cam.Flywheel bore and crank taper should be clean smooth and dry.Torque nut to 540 in lbs.Electric start nut to 240-300 in lbs.the flywheel key may have been damaged if not assembled and torqued correctly throwing off the timing sync.
between the magnets and the points.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: firing order

The white band originally had TOP printed on it but with age it has worn off.

After cleaning the points, set them to .020 gap. If that doesn't work, try replacing the condensers. They are still available--Try franzmarine .com. And don't forget to try NEW plugs. Sometimes the old ones will spark when out of the engine but not while in it.

Also check the wires that come out from under the flywheel and look like lamp cord. These would be the kill wires and would go to the terminal block if the engine is electric start or a kill switch (if it has one)

Some of these smaller Chryslers had an internal kill switch under the flywheel which was activated by twisting the throttle down past idle position. If your engine has this, check to be sure it is functioning properly.

And now the bad news: I had the same problem with my 20 hp Chrysler and after replacing plugs, points, and condensers, I get spark when the plugs are out but the engine just pops when I try to start it. I haven't found the cause yet but I'm not motivated because I don't really need that engine. Maybe when the weather gets warmer and I have some free time I'll get back to it and get it running properly. Next step is to check reeds and crankcase compression. Low crankcase compression due to bad reeds or or an air leak between cylinders or broken gaskets will cause the engine to pop and not start.

Good luck. Let us know what the problem turned out to be.

 

[getinmerry]

Re: firing order

Thanks for the info. I'm not a rookie, I've owned and worked on Evinrudes for 20+ years. The points are set perfectly to .020 over, and all other ignition parts have been throughly cheked out. New NGK plugs are in. I think the problem is the heavy dose of fogging oil I gave the motor about 3 days ago in prepartion for starting it after about 10 years.

I didn't want to push my luck and start it while the wires were on wrong, but now that I have the info, I'm going to give her h**l.

The compression is 118 (top) and 120 (lower). All signs say go, but the hard part is ahead.

Once I know she'll run, without a ton of money, I'll get to work and set her up right.

Thanks for the help so far. I'll let you know how it goes.

Chuck