Re: First Alpha Water Pump Replacement
Don, sorry for the confusion. The original post, wasn't really a question, just a statement, such that others on the fence to do it themselves vs pay to have it done, might swing toward the former. The drive was removed during the winterization, and resides in my basement. Boat is 2 hours away. Charlie, thinking I have an older model alpha, which apparently does have to be in fwd when connecting upper and lower, posted the concern. I'll post model in the future, for we don't get on the wrong path. <br /><br />I checked and reread the manual, again only found the drive install needed to be in fwd, nothing with upper and lower. When you posted a different manual, then I knew something was off and posted make, model, and serial number. <br /><br />The good news here, I don't have to take it back apart again. Not that it would have been hard, just a small set back. I had the outside of the drive cleaned off of drive oil and 2-4-C, ready for the touch-up paint. <br /><br />Now speaking of 2-4-C, I did use some in a couple of areas where the manual didn't specificly call it out. On the impeller, I put a light coat around the top and botttom ring, where it seals to the metal plate. I also put a film on the inside of the metal pump, along the outside diameter which the vanes press up against. This was done more by habit, from doing small outboards. When I looked back in the manual, saw that it wasn't mentioned. Was this a good idea?<br /><br />I considered using it on a few bolts for corrosion prevention, like it is called out for the 6 drive mounting bolts. I didn't use it in this case, because I thought there was a possibility of issolatig the anode corrosion protection. Could I have put a light coat on the four upper/lower mounting bolts and nuts, and the two end studs, without causing any issues?
