first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

[stevo10081984]

doing a thourough breakdown of my first carb and 1 of 2 screws that hold th butterfly on the throttle shaft broke...1. shold i try to drill out and tap if i can't save the threads?? 2. shold i just use the one screw that didnt break and use an epoxy or somthing similar to hold the butterfly in place??........if i try to drill and tap i risk breaking the shaft...i think it would hold w/ some type of epoxy........did i even need to take this apart...im pretty sure i didnt, the roll pin gave me hell! also is this shaft available, any idea on price?.....forgot to mention its for a 88 johnson 28 spl thanks!!

 

[kfa4303]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

hi stevo. no, you didn't really need to take it off, but what's done is done. I like option 2. Once you get it back in place you can then leave it be forever more. just be sure that if you do use some type of epoxy, you only use a tiny, tiny bit. just enough to hold the valve in place. keep it tidy. keep it simple. you probalbly could find the part, but it would probably cost about the same to just get a whole new/used carb off a donor motor, which you may still want to consider. with a donor you'd get the part you need and any and all other bits you might need in the future. good luck. keep us posted.

 

[Jayrock]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

I would start looking for another carb. If you cant find one, then try to fix the one you have. If you fail to get it perfect, you risk ingesting excess epoxy, or possibly even the screw itself into the engine at high speed. That could trash the motor. Is it worth the risk? To me no. This why people that want to do their own work, NEED to get a GENUINE OMC manual for the specific year and model of their motor. The manual would have prevented this problem. Chalk it up to a learning experience, and here is a place that probably has a used Carb:
http://www.outboardexchange.com/outboard_parts.htm#1-6

 

[stevo10081984]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

jay good look on the possability of sucking that screw up...i didnt even consider that because of how stuck it is, anyhow i will try to find a couple tiny drill bits and see if i can extract the screw...i checked out the link for a used carb, but i cant see spending another hundred on this, unless completely necessary...ive got a lil better than 750 already invested...650 initial...30 carb kit...30...ignition switch...and ive gotta pick up new fuel lines for under the cowl ?? 40...anyway im learning...and i already have an identicial back up in good running order.....also i did pick up a manual...a clymer...i didnt know any better, another wasted 30 bucks...thanks for the reply's i let you know how i make out!

 

[rickryder]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

Does the screw protrude through the shaft? You might be able to remove the shaft and grab the screw end with mini vice grips and unscrew it out the other side. I would use some red locktite when installing the new screws.

 

[F_R]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

Does the screw protrude through the shaft? You might be able to remove the shaft and grab the screw end with mini vice grips and unscrew it out the other side. I would use some red locktite when installing the new screws.

I think this is the best solution...screw it on through the other side. The screws normally are swadged on the backside. That is why you can't remove them. There is a reson for that madness, which is to ensure they never come out and get ingested by the motor.

 

[stevo10081984]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

hey guys great day today! i hit the broken screw with a punch, to center my bit...started to drill out from the back and she came right out...the threads still look good! i took a ride to the local fastenal to pick up 2 new screws and 2 new roll pins, and the guy gave them to me, didnt wanna waste his time writing up a reciept....good day! also i ground down a flathead to remove the jets, however i can only seem to find 1 that requires the screwdriver located in the bottom of the bowl. is the other jet the one by the float, because i have a new one in this kit but they call it a float valve and seat, but it resembles the high speed jet i removed with the screwdriver...just wanna make sure i get both hi and low.....also i typicially use blue locktite on everything i touch, can i use that instead of red? which is stronger? thanks again for all your input, im really enjoying my project/projects...as well as using this site...thanks

 

[1fishbone]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

You got lucky!

Yes, the other one is under the float valve and seat.

Typically, use blue Loc-tite for little screws, nut/blots, red is for larger bolts. I think the size 1/4 or 5/16 and under use blue, red for larger than 5/16.

It was recommended to use red so it wouldn't break loose.

 

[rickryder]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

Good deal stevo! Glad to see it worked out for you!

 

[Jayrock]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

hey guys great day today! i hit the broken screw with a punch, to center my bit...started to drill out from the back and she came right out...the threads still look good! i took a ride to the local fastenal to pick up 2 new screws and 2 new roll pins, and the guy gave them to me, didnt wanna waste his time writing up a reciept....good day! also i ground down a flathead to remove the jets, however i can only seem to find 1 that requires the screwdriver located in the bottom of the bowl. is the other jet the one by the float, because i have a new one in this kit but they call it a float valve and seat, but it resembles the high speed jet i removed with the screwdriver...just wanna make sure i get both hi and low.....also i typicially use blue locktite on everything i touch, can i use that instead of red? which is stronger? thanks again for all your input, im really enjoying my project/projects...as well as using this site...thanks

Good job dude. The float needle and seat screw out just like the high speed jet. Once you have the float needle and seat out, clean out that passage. Sometimes crud gets in there. I have found pieces of rubber wedged in there that compressed air couldnt get out.

 

[stevo10081984]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

hey guys! carbs been soaking since last night...gonna put it back together in a few...anyway i picked up all new fuel lines for under the cowl today, 3 different sizes 3' of each $34...gotta love it, seeing as how im replacing/rebuilding the fuel delivery system, should i go ahead and order a fuel pump kit??? it doesnt leak and looks clean from the outside...i just dont know what there is in the kit! is it just gaskets? or is there something else that the ethonal could have deteriated? im just trying to do it right the first time, i know it probably couldnt hurt to do it now, but id rather do it later if need be, i just dont wanna go backwards on the progress ive already made, like get a peice of rubber from the worn pump lodged in my newly rebuilt carb

 

[milliesdad]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

Red Loctite for screws that will not have to come back apart -heat needed to remove the fastner. Blue Loctite for fasteners that will have to come apart again. Red is High strength, Blue is not as strong. Also, red for fasteners you can't see, blue for those you can see.

Which ever one you use, make sure that both surfaces-fastener and threads- are clean and oil-free. Use brake cleaner or Loctite cleaner to remove oil residue. If the surfaces are not perfectly clean, don't waste the money or time to use either of the Loctites.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

The luck you're having! Have you thought about playing the lottery?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

hello again stevo. you could get a fuel pump kit, if they make one for your model. many models do not have a rebuild kit available so you have to buy a whole new fuel pump. the kits themselves, when/if you can find them, have a diaphragm, screeen and lots of other little tiny bits that can be hard to put together. However, your pump may be ok as is. to check it hook up your new fuel lines prime them with fuel, then star the engine, you can then remove the fuel line going from the pump to the carb at the carb end. you should see fuel being pumped out as the motor runs. if not then your pump os probably on the fritz. however, if you can prime your fuel line and the bulb stays firm and it pumps out fuel as described above, you;ve probably ok. glad you got the butterfly valve issue worked out too. good luck.

 

[stevo10081984]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

just wanted to let everyone know! i got everything put back together...freshly rebuilt card and + fuel lines, and she fired right up!! runs great! "in a barrel anyway" my new problem is a cooling one....i started a post the other day about my other "twin" 1988 evinrude 28 spl not quite heating up to where it should be...anywhere from 80-100 after 45min in a barrel at idle...i was told no big deal seeing as its like 20-30 degrees outside....that brings me back to the newly recesitated johnson...after just a short few minutes at idle speed in the same conditions as it sister evinrude the johnson hits anywhere from 140-160 on the water cover plate and it briefly registered as high as 180 on the block....i am going to change the impeller asap, even though it pees steadily, my question is what eslse should i look into, i think my control box has a overheat alarm how do i check to see if it is functioning....also compression while hot is 102 top 110 bottom...this motor has been sitting for years so in comfident those readings will improve...both cylinders were between 115-120 cold.....also the plate over the t-stat has been removed at some point...and instead of a gasket they used sillycone....so im gonna take that off and clean check t-stat operation and replace gasket...any thoughts on cleaning passage ways or what else i should look for in my endeavors?

 

[Jayrock]

Re: first carb rebuild and THIS HAPPENED!

just wanted to let everyone know! i got everything put back together...freshly rebuilt card and + fuel lines, and she fired right up!! runs great! "in a barrel anyway" my new problem is a cooling one....i started a post the other day about my other "twin" 1988 evinrude 28 spl not quite heating up to where it should be...anywhere from 80-100 after 45min in a barrel at idle...i was told no big deal seeing as its like 20-30 degrees outside....that brings me back to the newly recesitated johnson...after just a short few minutes at idle speed in the same conditions as it sister evinrude the johnson hits anywhere from 140-160 on the water cover plate and it briefly registered as high as 180 on the block....i am going to change the impeller asap, even though it pees steadily, my question is what eslse should i look into, i think my control box has a overheat alarm how do i check to see if it is functioning....also compression while hot is 102 top 110 bottom...this motor has been sitting for years so in comfident those readings will improve...both cylinders were between 115-120 cold.....also the plate over the t-stat has been removed at some point...and instead of a gasket they used sillycone....so im gonna take that off and clean check t-stat operation and replace gasket...any thoughts on cleaning passage ways or what else i should look for in my endeavors?

Start a new thread Stevo. You will get more attention, and info if you only keep your threads to one topic, Just food for thought. J