First deck recore advice

[nickzlb77]

So my winter project (try and get one every year) is a 96 Baha cruisers 260 cc. Like the hull design. Overall low end construction which is why I got it. Looking forward to the challenge of bringing it back to life better than before.

the entire deck is shot. So far I’ve gotten 80 percent of the old plywood scrap pieces removed and the bottom layer down to bare glass. there’s roughly a 2” perimeter to tab in around the hatches and side walls.



my plan is as follows. This is my first deck job so I’ve been researching different methods and materials.

I do not like how thin the bottom laminate is so my plan is to lay in a single layer of 1708 using epoxy resin.

Then since I’m using coosa board and it should be glassed on bottom (here is where I’m not sure) lay up a single layer of csm on the back.

set the glassed bottom coosa in with slightly thickened epoxy resin.

Fill gaps and gap under perimeter around with thickened poly resin

tab in with 1708 (poly)

two layers of 1708

fare it

gel coat

please stop me if I’m wrong here before I f it up! Thanks!

 

[kcassells]

Nothing matters without pics. or it didnt happen

 

[nickzlb77]

Trying to resiZe what I have so far. I can put a damn seascape background and a smiling dogface in place of mine but I can’t just simply resize it

 

[nickzlb77]

[No message]

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Can honestly say I’ve never seen anyone do it this way. Are you only replacing a small portion of the deck, or the entire thing? Since the stringers support the deck, what do those look like? Transom?

 

[kcassells]

Thats a start! Cool. So deck is coming out? May need to butt up the hull for support. Measure, measure measure and pics out your utter butt.

 

[kcassells]

Hopefully all or useless. Chuck I think that was getting a pic finally.
Are we turning into the 2

 

[nickzlb77]

You’ve never seen anyone cut out the core, leave the bottom layer, recore it and glass the top?

All of the deck containing the scrap plywood core is coming out.

 

[nickzlb77]

Surprisingly the transom is solid. My guess is they repaired or replaced it when they closed it up (originally an IO).

 

[kcassells]

Recore if balsa but not ply.

 

[nickzlb77]

Was one of those scrap piece square deals. Why not recore?

same as what’s shown in this video.

https://youtu.be/JAtjHjJhBV0

 

[kcassells]

yup I don't see why you couldn't if its all the ply puzzle part stuff. Lots of boats were done that way. Same as a balsa core.
I would just suspect though that there is rot underneath the deck.

 

[KJM]

Before you go to too much trouble, better make sure the stringers are good and foam is dry. Be a shame to put expensive cooza floor over crappy, soft underside. Why are you using thickened epoxy to glue in the core to the existing glass? Wouldn't thickened poly do and be less expensive? Incidently, I'm getting near to a similar situation, with installing a cooza floor. What thickness cooza are you using?

 

[nickzlb77]

I’m going with 1/2” blue water 26

i was a little worried with adherence on the underside but yes I assume a thickened poly would suffice as well.

I have to get some pics of the underside of this thing. The construction is a little puzzling haha. Lower stringers look fine and appear solid. Drilled a few small holes and they’re clean. The deck that I’m removing is supported by what amounts to a floating stringer which ties into the main ones with basically a piece of plywood screwed into the lower ones.

I’ll definitely get some pics this weekend.

 

[kcassells]

Here is the point. You have no freakin clue how rotted the stringers are and appears you dont care with this cheap arse
repair.
Your pics blows and your repair blows. Do whatever you want. Boat is a total rehab whether you like it or not. Rot starts from the bottom up.
I'm outta here

 

[KJM]

Sounds like the construction is not original from the factory? Did you test the lower original stringers? I just finished cutting my stringers to propper height. They are also 1/2 inch coosa (actually thermolite, but the same thing), I'll need to fiberglass them well to build strength and maybe put another 1/2 inch strip along the top for support of the floor. I was also thinking 1/2 inch for the floor, but was wondering if it would flex too much. I'd rather 3/4 but that stuff is expensive!

 

[KJM]

Might be better just to cut out the lower fiberglass and get a good look at whats underneath? Maybe you could save the lower sheet of fiberglass and reuse it. If the floor was rotten then there is a very high chance that whats underneath is also in poor shape. Take it from me, trying to do things on the cheap usually ends up costing more than doing it right the first time! Been there, done that.

 

[nickzlb77]

Here’s the point. You’re obviously a JO. Kick rocks.

 

[nickzlb77]

No the rot started from them moving around the Leaning post, the console, moving battery boxes, and not sealing the two dozen or so holes they drilled thru the core.

your attitude sucks. Which means you life probably does. So kick rocks.

as I have more time to investigate further I will and maybe I will find more rot but at the moment my question is about a plan to recore assuming that’s all I need.

the now are hatches, all glass. And aft is the old engine compartment, glass hatches as well.

so all of the remaining core is coming out.

 

[nickzlb77]

Thanks KJM I Think you’re right on removing it. It really makes no sense the way it was built. No bulkhead or support across a huge span. The lower stringers appear solid, haven’t moisture tested. The stringers or supports
for lack of a better term that the deck is held up by at about 6 inches above the stringers running along the hull. There is a piece of 3/4 ply painted fastening the two (running alongside fuel tank). Like I said will send some pics.

curious if I cut the bottom layer out how would I go about tabbing it in to the hull? Or is the new top layer tabbed into the side walls enough? Sorry for the questions.