first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

bigbad4cyl

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 28, 2004
Messages
386
i would realy appriciate any help here.my spelling is poor [sorry].......<br /><br /><br />i baught an 89 sunrunner, it had been sitting for 4 <br />years ,,,,it has a aq 151c overhead cam ,4 cyl volvo in it with a fresh water factory cooling system..i found water in oil ,very milky.,,,,,,,,,.the coolant is green.,,,,...everything on motor is rusted.pullys,fuel pump,housings,expansion tank ,metal bent hoses etc..every thing...............the engine block on outside looks orange and ok not flaked ,the oil pan looks ok orange and not flaked.........<br /><br />today i tore down the engine ,after doing a weeks worth of searches on here.....<br /><br />I found the timing belt had jumped 1 tooth,,,,,the exhaust manifold was competely rusted out on the inside,,,,,, the valves in the head looked kinda rusty,,the topside [cam area] looked good,,,,, there was indication of water in the very back cylinder,this cylinder has a strange o ring shaped gasket pushed into the head for that cylinders exhaust [if you know what i mean],,,,,the oil cooler was realy milky like sludge........the head gasket looked ok.......the intake gasket had green stains all over it,were it meets the block........the cylinder sleaves had no deep groves ,but i could see some cross hatching[micro]...the tops of the cylinders looked ok[except #4 which had water stains?],[i sprayed some prolong lubricant in cylinders/walls],,,,,,,,,the motor turn over eaisly by hand on the rusty crank pully......<br /><br />my question is with the water in the oil and all ,,,could the bottom end still be good,,,,,could i just have the head re done,buy a new exhaust manifold ..re gasket everything,,,,,bead blast all the rusy stuff/paint .....re assemble and feel ok about this .........i take others life in my hands seriously when boating and would like to do this right/cost effective
 

Don S

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62,321
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

my question is with the water in the oil and all ,,,could the bottom end still be good
After setting for 4 years???????????<br />Take it apart and look. There is no one here with Xray vision or powers to see the bearings and crank journals to answer your questions.
 

Sea Six

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 7, 2004
Messages
191
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

You've got quite a mess on your hands - good luck.
 

bigbad4cyl

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 28, 2004
Messages
386
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

well i live in calif ,my boat is under me in a carport i was hoping to not have to take the block out ,it turns pretty good and the camshaft looked pretty good....im realy hoping to not have to do that ,there is water about an extra 2 inches or so above the fill line...and its milkey ...............uuuuggggg...........so what do i do take out the short block take it to a machine shop[any machine shop?] ask for it to be hot tanked and magnufluxed and then rods reconditioned crank micropolished and then new berings installed does this sound solid..........what about the head ,,,have it hot tanked,,,,disasembled new berings with a 3 angle valve job .....whole thing reasembled with a gasket overhaul kit....
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

just an opinion cos (as someone has already said) u cant tell for sure without stripping the thing down.. but to me if the cylinder bores have survived the four year stand (i think u can be sure the thing wasnt "winterized".. he he) the block internals will stand a good chance of still being servicable..<br /><br />if the cam is okay the only thing in there thats "shiny metal" and likely to rust would be the crankshaft journals and small-end pins.. somehow i dont think they would.. <br /><br />the cross hatching in the bores is a good sign by the way.. it shows there aint much bore wear.. to me the real reason for stripping the bottom end would be to check for bearing wear and as a matter of course having gone that far i would replace the big-end shells and pull the pistons and rods to make sure the rings were free perhaps even replace the rings..<br /><br />but if u really dont want to pull the block.. squirt some thin penetrating oil around the top of the pistons and let it soak while u are doing the rest of the work.. drain the crap out of the block look for rusty steaks in the oil if there is any.. fill it with flushing oil.. u can over-fill it if u like it all has to come out before the engine gets run properly.. spin it by hand a few time and again let it all soak while u spent the severals weeks doing the rest of the work that u will find needs doing.. he he<br /><br />again i stress its just my oppinion not advice as to what to do or what not to do but i recon u stand a better than even chance of getting away with it.. if u put it all together and suffer premature bearing failure as soon as u hit WOT.. well u will know u didnt get away with it.. he he<br /><br />and most definitely dont set sail for a far off land until the whole lot has bin well tested... he he<br /><br />i had to add the last bit cos i dont want to be accused of giving bad or unsafe advice.. whoops..<br /><br />trog100<br /><br />ps.. as for the head.. what u do with it is entirely down to your ability to pull things apart check clearances and such and to know what is knackered and what aint.. if u aint sure of your ability to do this send it off to the machine shop..<br /><br />of course the same applies to the bottom end if u do decide to pull it.. do it yourself if u think u can else send that off to the machine shop as well..<br /><br />jeesh.. i can see why some folks would simply say buy a new engine.. and a new drive.. eerrr.. and a new boat.. !!!<br /><br />and whats with all this "magnufluxed and then rods reconditioned crank micropolished and three angle grinds" crap.. how come u know all this "clever" stuff u dont need to know but dont seem to know the dumb stuff u do need to know...!!<br /><br />u have to laff.. he he he..
 

outboardguy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
262
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

After four years I would think the water would have settled to the bottom of the pan and the elevated oil level could have protected the crank.But if it were me I'd take it apart to see what if any damage had been done to the internals as well as the pan. The good question is where did the water come from?
 

bigbad4cyl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Messages
386
Re: first post ,new rustbucket/boat engine water in oil

looks like it came from a roted out exhaust maifold in the #4 cyl
 
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