First time buyer

[Ttack#18]

Hey yall back again!
I'm buying my first boat soon and I'm currently looking at a 1997 sea ray 210 with a 5.7 mercruiser. The boat has 600 hours on it (not sure about the motor as the timer runs anytime the key is turned over even if the motor isn't running) The boat looks to be in pristine shape. No damage to the hull, good clean interior, etc. However, I'm not an engines guy outside of routine maintenance so I'm not sure how many hours a motor is usually good for before they start needing extensive repair. He is willing to sell it for 8k. Is this a good deal? Is there anything (other than floating the boat which i intend on Doing) that I need to be weary of with a boat this old? Thanks for any advice you can give.

 

[jbcurt00]

For New Members Needing help buying a boat. A Buyer's Checklist.

All of the Iboaters know that we frequently have new members checking in and asking about wether or not to purchase this that or the other boat. After speaking to a Mod (Thanks BobVT) I have decided to use a previous post to create a check list of things to check when purchasing a new boat...

forums.iboats.com

 

[CapeMarineSurvey]

Sterndrive boats do have advantages but they do have some of the highest ownership costs. Even if you don't need a report or appraisal, it would be worth spending a few hundred bucks on a surveyor or even a good mechanic to look at the boat for you.

 

[tpenfield]

Your big things to check are the engine/outdrive (as you mentioned) and the structure of the hull (what you cannot easily see). I am not 100% sure about your particular boat, but Sea Rays of the mid-1990's had a wood core structure and wood floor. @Friscoboater had a whole thread and YouTube series on fixing his 1995 Sea Ray after realized he just bought a boat with rotten structure.

The boat was built to last 15-20 years and it is 23 years old. Soooo, it is a matter of seeing if the structure is still in good shape and is not rotting.

 

[Lou C]

Yep the biggest issue is unseen wood rot in the structure, that’s actually more difficult and time consuming to repair than mechanical issues. Unless you know that a boat is 100% non wood composite it’s a risk. I would pass been there and done that. Personally I wouldn’t buy a boat older that 5 years old and outboard power only. Older I/Os can really be a headache.

 

[mr 88]

Good luck finding a 5 year old boat in that price range ,ain't going happen. Hours are actually a bit low. If engine is maintained there is no reason it won't get anywhere from 4 to 6,000 hours on it . Get a survey ,take it for a ride and make a deal if it passes both.

 

[Lou C]

My advice:
Save up till you can get a 5 yr old boat with a modern outboard. Or else get to have fun fooling around with all the common old boat (wood rot) and designed in I/O problems. I’ve learned enough in the past 18 years to do this only once. Take the cheaper way out and be prepared to either pay a lot now and then or learn to do it yourself if you’re so inclined.

 

[JimS123]

My advice:
Save up till you can get a 5 yr old boat with a modern outboard. Or else get to have fun fooling around with all the common old boat (wood rot) and designed in I/O problems. I’ve learned enough in the past 18 years to do this only once. Take the cheaper way out and be prepared to either pay a lot now and then or learn to do it yourself if you’re so inclined.

The best advice yet...

Thirty Five years with an I/O. Never again. I used to dread winterizing. Had to do it in driveway, so it had to be a nice day. Took 3 hours. Sucking out the oil, filling the nice dry bilge up with drained hot water. Standing on your head in a small place. The OB is done in the garage on any old day and it takes 20 minutes.

The OB is quieter, smoother and used less gas. The boat runs faster. Maintenance is a breeze. Lots more storage space and passenger room in the cockpit.

No more gimble bearings, u-joints and those G-awful bellows.

The boat shows used to be ALL I/O. the only OBs were little tinny fishing boats. Then, a few models could be had either way. Now, the majority of the boats are OB. And we are in fresh water. At the last FLL boat show I believe they had 1600 boats on display. I think I saw 2 I/Os. Of course the 100 footers were all straight inboards.

Just my opinion.

 

[KD4UPL]

Back before COVID raised the prices of boats I'd say that's a high price. I sold a 20' 1997 Larsen with a 5.7L V8 back in 2015. It was also in good shape with a trailer, bimini top, and decent stereo. I sold it for $8,500. Now days, who knows on the price. People are paying crazy money for anything that floats.
In my opinion a 1997 boat should be regarded as a project even if it looks to be in great shape. There is very likely rot somewhere, the question is where and how bad. I sold my '97 because the floor had some soft spots and I didn't want to deal with it. Plus, I wanted a bigger newer boat.
I've always had I/O boats and don't want an outboard. We go out with out kids and other families with kids. There is always swimming, jumping, etc. off the back of the boat. Lots of water sports with boards, tubes, and skis etc. That big outboard sticking up right in the middle of the transom would be terribly in the way. Further, I just think I/O boats look better.

 

[Lou C]

The outboard costs more up front but there is no question in my mind that they are safer by far. No issue with fumes in the bilge, no worry about a leaking bellows letting in water ruining the gimble bearing & ujoints and no chance of a cooling hose failing and flooding the bilge with seawater. 18 years of salt water experience had taught me that when I get my next Chevy V8 it’ll be where it belongs, in a hot rod!
Here the way to go is outboard or straight inboard.
Safer
Better performance for the same hp due to less weight
Much less maintenance
Longer seasonal use by far due to no problem with freezing
Yes they cost more I’ll gladly pay it.

 

[JimS123]

I've always had I/O boats and don't want an outboard. We go out with out kids and other families with kids. There is always swimming, jumping, etc. off the back of the boat. Lots of water sports with boards, tubes, and skis etc. That big outboard sticking up right in the middle of the transom would be terribly in the way. Further, I just think I/O boats look better.

Interesting how different people can look at the same thing and have a different opinion.

The I/O is basically underwater and is a 100% hazard to anybody jumping off the boat. Ever see a person split their foot open with a prop? OTOH, an OB can be pulled up completely out of the water and basically cannot hurt anybody.

Sure, the swim platform is slightly smaller, but nobody will be inclined to jump off the middle and land a foot on a prop.

Personally, nothing looks cooler than having a big black max towering above the back of the boat.

 

[JimS123]

I get my next Chevy V8 it’ll be where it belongs, in a hot rod!

Yea verily. I've had many a Chevy, and the wife has one now, but I've always been a Ponch guy. I never should have sold my'67 Catalina with the big block 400. I still have a 1980 V8 Bonne and I swear it is a better towcar than any pickemup truck built...

 

[mr 88]

Here on Lake Ontario and Lake Erie there are very few if any USED 21 ' fiberglass boats in the category that the OP is looking at. A lot of 15 - 18' tinnies, mostly fishing rigs. A few CC s again set up for fishing . We don't know where he is located or where he plans on boating .So unless your willing or have the money for a 100,000 - 150,000 new outboard powered boat your looking at I/Os. BTW the OP didn't ask about what to buy ,or how it should be powered , maybe " circle back " and reply to his question.

 

[Lou C]

What? Here in Long Island you can walk into a dealer and buy a nicely equipped Key West 203 Dual Console with a Yamaha, Merc or Suzuki 150 for about 50K! That’s a 20’ fully foam filled (positive flotation) salt water boat. That’s new with warranties.

 

[Lou C]

And if you like buying 5 years old knock off 15-20k!

 

[mr 88]

Here on Lake Ontario and Lake Erie there are very few if any USED 21 ' fiberglass boats in the category that the OP is looking at. A lot of 15 - 18' tinnies, mostly fishing rigs. A few CC s again set up for fishing . We don't know where he is located or where he plans on boating .So unless your willing or have the money for a 100,000 - 150,000 new outboard powered boat your looking at I/Os. BTW the OP didn't ask about what to buy ,or how it should be powered , maybe " circle back " and reply to his question.

I forgot to say "USED 21' Fiberglass boats OUTBOARD POWERED boats in the category the that the OP ...." New 21' Sea Ray's go for 56,000 and up. At any rate the OP did not ask for opinions on outboard vs I/O .

 

[JimS123]

At any rate the OP did not ask for opinions on outboard vs I/O .

maybe " circle back " and reply to his question.

Okey Dokey.

A 24 year old plastic boat is not a good buy. A 24 year old I/O is even a worse buy. If the boat were a saltwater boat, it would be yet more worser.

Those are just opinions.

 

[jbcurt00]

Fellas, simmer down....

Try to stay relevant to the OPs original post.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Hey yall back again!
I'm buying my first boat soon and I'm currently looking at a 1997 sea ray 210 with a 5.7 mercruiser. The boat has 600 hours on it (not sure about the motor as the timer runs anytime the key is turned over even if the motor isn't running) The boat looks to be in pristine shape. No damage to the hull, good clean interior, etc. However, I'm not an engines guy outside of routine maintenance so I'm not sure how many hours a motor is usually good for before they start needing extensive repair. He is willing to sell it for 8k. Is this a good deal? Is there anything (other than floating the boat which i intend on Doing) that I need to be weary of with a boat this old? Thanks for any advice you can give.

if the motor is well maintained, by well maintained, that is going above and beyond the minimum recommended services. The motor is barely broken in and would not be the problem for another 3-5000 hours

Ask the P.O how often the drive is off for service, the impeller is changed and the alignment checked. Drive service is annual or every 100 hours. same with alignment. impeller is generally every 3-5 years.

if the owner said they never have done it. then I would look elsewhere since you are a first-time boat buyer.

look at the boat buyers guide at the top of the sticky. to me, the boat is over-priced

for 1997, the soft dash will most likely have started delaminating. the seats will most likely need to be re-done.

there are 3 seating configurations for the 190/210 bow riders.

the good news, the carpet is snap-in so easily replaced.

the bad news, the boat has wood stringers and a wood transom. look for signs of mold and discoloration in the ski locker, bilge, etc.

if you see dark fiberglass in areas, that is moisture and rot in the wood under the fiberglass. if that is the case and you absolutely love the boat, then expect to pay $3k for a hull restoration if you do the work yourself.