I am planning to fill three screw holes in my transom this weekend where a transducer has been mounted. The transducer will not be remounted in this location. The boat in question is a 2003 Four Winns with a FG hull.
This will be my first time doing any hull repair or using an epoxy product. I plan to drill the holes out one step larger to ensure I have every bit of silicone out of there before I get started. Once the holes are drilled, I would appreciate any advice about process. The epoxy I will be using is the West Systems 105K fiberglass boat repair kit.
First, any prep I should do after drilling the silicone out to a clean hole (aside from blowing the dust and filings out and making sure it is dry)?
Second, should I put 1 or 2 thin coats on the internal edges of the screw holes before I fill the holes completely with epoxy? The question being of whether the core material (either wood or foam ? I haven?t got into it yet) will absorb enough epoxy to make this a process better done in two steps rather than just pumping the hole full of epoxy in one step? Also, if more than one step is best do I need to let each coat fully cure before applying more epoxy? Wait until it is tacky?
Third, the high temp on Saturday is supposed to be in the mid-50?s. Is that warm enough for the epoxy to be workable and cure properly? I know that cooler temps for epoxy slow cure time but not sure how much 50 degree temps would affect the workability and cure time.
Fourth, does the epoxy need to be completely cured before putting the applied epoxy under water when I put the boat in the lake? Not sure if I will get to the lake for another 1-2 weeks, but would be nice to know for reference. Temps are supposed to be 50?s-60?s daytime and 40?s overnight for the next week but boat is sitting in my garage so the temp swings are somewhat muted.
Finally, what is good to clean off uncured epoxy? I plan to use a syringe and possibly another tool to work the epoxy into the holes ? how do I handle tool clean up when done?
OK, I threw a lot of questions at you! Some of this is probably covered in the instructions in the West Systems kit, but any help from experienced folks would be much appreciated!
This will be my first time doing any hull repair or using an epoxy product. I plan to drill the holes out one step larger to ensure I have every bit of silicone out of there before I get started. Once the holes are drilled, I would appreciate any advice about process. The epoxy I will be using is the West Systems 105K fiberglass boat repair kit.
First, any prep I should do after drilling the silicone out to a clean hole (aside from blowing the dust and filings out and making sure it is dry)?
Second, should I put 1 or 2 thin coats on the internal edges of the screw holes before I fill the holes completely with epoxy? The question being of whether the core material (either wood or foam ? I haven?t got into it yet) will absorb enough epoxy to make this a process better done in two steps rather than just pumping the hole full of epoxy in one step? Also, if more than one step is best do I need to let each coat fully cure before applying more epoxy? Wait until it is tacky?
Third, the high temp on Saturday is supposed to be in the mid-50?s. Is that warm enough for the epoxy to be workable and cure properly? I know that cooler temps for epoxy slow cure time but not sure how much 50 degree temps would affect the workability and cure time.
Fourth, does the epoxy need to be completely cured before putting the applied epoxy under water when I put the boat in the lake? Not sure if I will get to the lake for another 1-2 weeks, but would be nice to know for reference. Temps are supposed to be 50?s-60?s daytime and 40?s overnight for the next week but boat is sitting in my garage so the temp swings are somewhat muted.
Finally, what is good to clean off uncured epoxy? I plan to use a syringe and possibly another tool to work the epoxy into the holes ? how do I handle tool clean up when done?
OK, I threw a lot of questions at you! Some of this is probably covered in the instructions in the West Systems kit, but any help from experienced folks would be much appreciated!