floor rot

lso254

Seaman
Joined
Feb 19, 2002
Messages
54
what is the best way to approach deck rot, have a small soft spot and want to know how to repair it. I have thought about flooring over it, cutting it out, using chemicals. Someone here has done it before and can help me. :eek:
 
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DJ

Guest
Re: floor rot

boat beginner,<br /><br />How much work do you want to do? How nice do you want it?<br /><br />I think you find that when you start cutting, the rot is farther along than you think.<br /><br />You'll have to keep cutting until you get to clean wood and then graft in new wood. Of course you will have to look and make sure the stringers didn't get affected by the cancer.<br /><br />If they're OK. you can replace the affected area with wood cut to size, coated with epoxy and then glassed back in with fiberglass mat and resin.
 

lso254

Seaman
Joined
Feb 19, 2002
Messages
54
Re: floor rot

yea, that's what I'm afraid of. I am thinking of just making a sheet to cover the damage. I really don't want to spend the summer cutting out rot. I figure if I make a well treated piece to put over the rot it will outlive the boat.
 
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DJ

Guest
Re: floor rot

First you coat the wood you are going to place into the floor with resin. Once that is done you place the wood in the area and then lay fiberglass mat over it and soak with resin.
 

chesire

Seaman
Joined
Jan 20, 2002
Messages
61
Re: floor rot

what is the difference between epoxy and resin? Does it matter what type of resin?
 

sea wolf

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
1,219
Re: floor rot

well, there's polyester, which is crap & epoxy. polyester is relatively inexpensive but doesn't hold up well to the elements. epoxy is expensive but if applied corectly will last a hell of a long time. if u got a boat that u plan on holding on to for a few years the go with the epoxy. it will pay for itself because u probably won't have to do the repair again.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Re: floor rot

I recently faced a similar issue, and decided to add a double flooring (open runabout used for fishing and general play). This has held up for about 3 years now, although it is possible that the original soft spots underneath are now really nasty. For a proper fix, you have to replace the wood -- and that isn't easy in a glass boat. For the fix I did, the new flooring was glued over the glass-covered original floor, so there is some protection from water from the top. If you glue down carpet, you are adding some additional waterproofing. If you coat the whole new surface in epoxy before covering it (actually, starting with epoxy over the existing floor), you have no doubt gone a step further. But it's an expensive step.<br /><br />It just depends.....
 

SCO

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
1,463
Re: floor rot

Ive got to throw what I did into the mix. My floor rotted too, and it was the last to go. When I got in there( actually, I discovered all this soon after buying the boat) the stringers were powder. Looked like leaves when I got it all out. I concluded that it was a damp jungle beneath the floor, a terrarium, with the moisture held in by the top layer of glass on the floor and open cell foam floatation. I harkened back to my first home built boat that had removable floor boards and no glass. The outside of the hull of that boat was glassed and there was a lot of rot, but the floors were good. I built it back that way on this "new " boat. I can take the floors out. I will eventually epoxy and glass the edges of the floor in(this year) because I think it needs the structural support of tying the sides together but on this boat it is structurally ok for the use I put the boat through, ...don't try this at home if any youngsters are reading. At any rate, I painted the bottom and top of the floor with a latex house paint(ref the Dave Carnell website) and primer and it is working fine so far(1 year). I also put ports in fwd and aft, port, stb, and center so I could air it out. I figgure the paint on the underside is even more important than the topside. The boat was built with no finish or barrier on the bottom side of the floor. The idea is that the latex paint resists water, but is permiable to allow the wood to dry out where as the fiberglass traps the water. <br /><br />For the stringers, the old ones were glassed in. I cut the tops off of the stringers, raked out the old rotton wood leaving standing, tall, fiberglass slots, and epoxied new wood stringers into the slots and screwed and epoxied the sides of the fiberglass slots to the sides of the stringers. This ties the hull to the wood stringers. Gotta say it is a solid ,cheap, and I bet lasting fix. The latex painted exposed tops of the stringers may allow the stringers to stay dry too. I calked all gaps between the top of the fiberglass slots and the wood stringer sides to prevent water from collecting in these gaps. <br /><br />Did I mention, it's not real pretty.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2002
Messages
11
Re: floor rot

hey boat beginner,<br /> I am smack dab in the middle of what your talking about. I first cut the carpet where it would be easily seamed,then pulled up the whole piece that sits on the level part,this is where it was originally seamed. I only had a small soft spot in the floor also,the rot originated from an accident and sitting unprotected afterwards, letting moisture seep into the spider cracked glassed plywood.The worst two spots were where knots were. I took a skill saw and went way aroun them cutting out a rectangle piece and lifting it up.The rest for me is repair and replacing plywood to bring the drivers side seat box back to shape,not rotted just a large break in it. I am about to replace the cut out with a piece of 1/2 inch plywood,wich is the same as stock material, and then go over the complete flat area with another layer of 1/2" plywood. In three sections one cut to fit direcly between the seat boxes,the other two to fit in front and rear of the seats,scribing the edges to fit the hull slant.I will be going over the bottom surfaces with fiberglass epoxy and hardener and the seat boxes with mat and epoxy for strength.Ive built some canoes using west products and it is better,but I think that if someone keeps it dry they are all set,get at it now, dont cover rot.it will only cause glass and wood damage to get worse.any q's email me at turcotts@gwi.net
 

lso254

Seaman
Joined
Feb 19, 2002
Messages
54
Re: floor rot

well, seems there are a lot of people out there with ROT. I'm gonna tear into it tomorrow if the weather is nice. I wanna fix it right but I am afraid of the extent of the damage. I am never one to do things half-assed so I guess we'll see just how bad it is. Thanks for all the posts-this is a great help for a newbie. Hey, June marks my first year as a boat owner. "A boat is but a fiberglass hole in a body of water to which we throw in money."
 

evin300

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2001
Messages
384
Re: floor rot

consider a chainsaw if this becomes the "big" job!
 

Hawkeye1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
142
Re: floor rot

Anymore the epoxy is not that much more then the poly resin. I have found 2 sources of quality epoxy for prices in 25 to 35$ a gallon. Epoxy is way easier to work with and turns to the stickest glue on earth before it cures unlike the poly resin. below is a link of 2 of the better dealers I have found for epoxy. Ps, Dont waste your money on west systems. There are better and cheaper epoxies out there. The west system stuff is a little thick for my liking on wetting out heavy fg cloth, not to mention 3x the cost. Thinner epoxy is better for that and you can always add some cabosol to thickin any epoxy on the surface.<br /><br /> http://www.USCOMPOSITES.com/ <br /> http://www.RAKA.com/
 

lso254

Seaman
Joined
Feb 19, 2002
Messages
54
Re: floor rot

CRAP! you were all right! pulled the carpet and punched a hole today, rotten to the core, stringers also. I'm gonna keep cutting till it's gone and then start stringer replacement. Do I glass those just like the deck flooring?
 

lso254

Seaman
Joined
Feb 19, 2002
Messages
54
Re: floor rot

well, just glassed the stringers in that is nasty. Lookin fowrward to a floor soon.
 

Hawkeye1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
142
Re: floor rot

Dag gone Boat beginer, one day from finding rotten stringers and you have new one glassed in already. I was going to say you have to be careful in supporting the hull when you cut the old ones out as the hull might loose its shape sitting on a trailer. You dont want to form a hook in the bottom cause if you do the boat will be shot from a performace stand point.
 

dpekarek

Recruit
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
Messages
1
Re: floor rot

Yeah, I just wish someone would have warned me about the fumes. I'm going to share my experience now,A few beers and some fumes in a garage make for one whale of a headache!! Question on the resin.<br />I know I should coat the bottom side and edges of<br />the flooring I am replacing. Do I need to glass the whole topside? or just resin it and glass to<br />the existing deck? (think I'll stick to just woodwork tonight). sorry, this is boat beginner, signed in at work under an old name.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: floor rot

dpekerek,<br /><br />You can leave the topside bare IF you're going to lay down mat and resin over it.
 

DaleT

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 16, 2002
Messages
469
Re: floor rot

I have to tackle this problem pretty soon, my boat has an aluminium hull. I just need to know a few things, are the stringers aluminium as well or wood and if wood how are they attached? I only asked because I saw on the Lowes site where the newer boats have Alum. stringers. My boat by the way is a '77 sea-nymph (16ft) with some softspots throughout the deck. Thanks.
 
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