Flywheel is toast

[d_glover25]

I recently pulled the flywheel on my '56 12hp Gale and found out that opening on the flywheel is verry stuck to the crankshaft. Stuck enough to break the cast metal flywheel and leave the steel insert with the threaded holes for the puller still on the crankshaft. The three bolt puller I tried after I broke the flywheel, pulled the steel threaded tab up until it stripped the thread and bent the tab about 30 degrees. How can I get the remaining piece of flywheel off without damaging the coils or points? Did I do something wrong?

D

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Flywheel is toast

You did,nt do any thing wrong. Some of these old flywheel's were installed after cleaning the taper's with carbon-tet. That would fuse the flywheel right to the crank. I have removed the steel insert by carefully hack sawing, close to, but not touching the crank. Then splitting the remaing thin web with a cold chisel. Go to a machine supply house that handles Lenox hack saw blades, use about a 12, to 14 tooth per inch blade. Don't try a red painted blade from Wal-Mart, etc. They won't have enough in supply to get through that hub.

 

[F_R]

Re: Flywheel is toast

You said "The three bolt puller I tried after I broke the flywheel" Then you said "Did I do something wrong? If I am reading this correctly, you already know what you did wrong. Used a jaw type puller on the OD of the flywheel didn't you? Not that I am criticizing you, but the information might be a warning to help somebody else avoid making the same mistake.

You might have to cut the hub off now after first removing the coils and stuff to get them out of the way. One of those little 4" angle grinders cuts like fury.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Those angle grinders cut like fury alright, you just need a surgeon's touch. The crank, being harder will have a slightly different color spark, watch closely.

 

[d_glover25]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Thanks guys, That is definately what I did wrong. The three bolt puller I used first just didn't seem strong enough because of the small bolt size. maybe I just needed stronger metal grade for the bolts. Maybe the three bolt puller would have worked and the added strength of the cast around the tabs would have pulled it, but it still might have broke right. When is a good time to use a jaw type puller? I thought they were for the smaller engines? Why use them if this happens? I thought it was because of the small threads and consequently small bolts.

 

[F_R]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Always use 3 bolt pullers on OMC engines. Always use grade-8 bolts and they won't break. You could lift a HumVee with 3 of those. If the puller breaks, get a better puller. NEVER pull on the rim of the flywheel, you just found out why.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Dremel with a cut off blade will work...small, easy to see what you're doing

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Flywheel is toast

The jaw puller is primarily used to pull gears off shafts. You never use a jaw type of puller on anything aluminum. Thats why the three holes are provided in the flywheel. It exerts the pulling force vertically and close to the hub so the bending force is much less than it would be at the outer edges of the flywheel.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Flywheel is toast

See, but then you avoid all the fun of trying to fit up a jaw puller that almost nearly fits. Well, maybe if you grind a little here, saw a slot there . . . Hmm okay sorta works. See, then you can tighten it up reeeeel good and have it give way and smack you in the forehead.

good times

 

[d_glover25]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Good Times, Good Times

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Flywheel is toast

My three bolt puller has Grade Five bolts and I am unable to budge the flywheel on my V4TL-14B Johnson 100HP motor. I tried tapping on the puller's center bolt with a ball peen hammer, but still no luck. Should I upgrade to Grade Eight bolts and apply more pressure or try some heat around the flywheel hub? I doubt that this flywheel has been off since it was installed in 1968.

 

[F_R]

Re: Flywheel is toast

Get grade 8 bolts and give it heck. This is no place to be timid. It's supposed to be tight on there, but it Will come off. I shudder at the thought of heating flywheels. Besides, it isn't necessary.

When reinstalling the flywheel, make sure the tapers are clan and dry and torque the nut to 70-85 ft/lbs.

 

[F_R]

Re: Important Note previous reply

Re: Important Note previous reply

That torque spec is for the V4. This stuff happens when you don't start a new thread.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Important Note previous reply

Re: Important Note previous reply

F R - Sorry, but I was just trying to follow along a thread that established some problems I have in common. FYI, the Grade Eight bolts broke my hub puller. Any suggestions?