Re: Flywheel Puller 1955 Johnson 5.5
It comes in through the exhaust port.
Since the exhaust port is "higher" or closer to the top of the cylinder than the intake, it is the critical controlling component of the low speed compression pressure number. Once things start speeding up, the effective compression changes due to aerodynamics. But at cranking or pull-starting speeds, you can just about ignore that.
Oh yeah...guess I work on 4 strokes too darn much...learn, then forget something every day lately
For years I used some really cheap, grade nothing, slot head screws in my puller with judicious use of the torque & tap method. I even pulled Big Twin flywheels with them. Grade 8s work much faster though. The original, OMC puller used "stripper" bolts which prevent threading too deep and have a high class thread form. That makes them stronger than Grade 8 bolts and prevents stripping the flywheel. I believe they're even stronger than SHCS.
Agreed. I own nothing but Grade 5 and up bolts, and have no problem with the 5's...just toss after use (in fact, judicious use of force on my trusty long square shank screwdriver under the flywheel, nut on shaft, short handle 5 pound sledge/good rap, usually pops them off. But it takes a little experience (as you are aware of) to do this, and I suggest no one else try it unless they have a lot of spare motor parts, or feel like making some (that might be no good!)
I want to add that this is ONLY done on small motors...anything bigger, and the Impact and proper tools come out!
Good (as usual) post Paul, thanks!
