Flywheel Torque spec for 1963 Lark V 40hp?

[SteveVT]

Thanks in advance for your help. I replaced coils, points, and condensers for our recently purchased 1963 Lark V, and am looking forward to getting it started for the first time in 25 years, apparently. I don't have the manual yet (on its way). What is the flywheel bolt torque spec?

Thanks!

 

[lindy46]

100-105 ft.lbs

 

[SteveVT]

Thanks lindy46!

I'll post back if it runs tomorrow. Fingers crossed.........


ps. Any suggestions on how to lock the flywheel while torquing?

 

[SteveVT]

I've been thinking of making up a ring shaped wrench with a long handle and a hole to fit over the flywheel nut, and three holes to bolt down around it into the pull-start dog bolt holes.

Is that how Evinrude mechanics did it, or did they have a semi circular wrench that fit the teeth of the flywheel ring gear? Anyone know?

I could probably make either, with a little study. But I would like to know what the "official" way was....

 

[jbuote]

A Strap wrench....
​I actually found an old belt of thick heavy duty fabric, and it worked too in a pinch, but a strap wrench would the way to go I think, unless others have better ideas...

 

[boobie]

Get what the automotive mechs call a flywheel turner. Any parts house should have them.

 

[oldboat1]

large bladed screwdriver between the starter post and a flywheel tooth. Hold tightly in place while torquing bolt.

 

[boobie]

Or take the plugs out, put some nylon rope in a cylinder and use that for a piston stop with the piston in the right position.

 

[jimmbo]

We used to use the 'Rope' method boobie mentioned

Make sure the tapers are clean, lapping them is not a bad idea, just make sure to remove all the lapping compound before assembly. In 1974, I was driving our 40hp Electramatic when the flywheel came off the crank. Fortunately the recoil starter kept it from jumping right off. Engine had just been in the shop for a tune-up. I'm sure there was a very one way conversation the old man had with the dealer and service manager. After that, I convinced my dad I would do the next tune-up

 

[SteveVT]

Thanks very much for all the suggestions! I've done the rope trick on small briggs and stratton 5 hp engines, but wasn't confident about putting 105 ft lbs on the rods and bearings on this larger engine. Sending for a strap wrench or special will take too long -- I'd like to get it together and test start today.

I've done the bolt (screwdriver?) in starter gear/ring gear method and it worked without damaging either, but I don't feel good about doing that often. So I think I'll try my hand at making a wrench, so future flywheel removals will be straight-forward. I don't have a strap on hand but I do have plenty of scrap steel, and a welder. Either a toothed or bolt-on wrench is what I'll try, although I could possibly do a bicycle chain strap since I have a spare bike chain.

Also, yes I cleaned the tapers off completely with MEK. They look clean and bright -- no corrosion or scoring.

Oh, one other question -- though I got the coils and points in, I can't figure out where or how to attach the felt wipers. How are they installed?

Also the small capsule of grease included in the kit -- is that for the breaker post, or the wipers, or both, or neither?

Thanks to all!

 

[lindy46]

There should be a clip on one of the coils which holds the felt oiler. Part number 0510188. The capsule of grease is for the felt - don't use too much.

 

[SteveVT]

Thanks Lindy! I found the clip, and added the felt piece. It was already saturated with oil by the mfr, so I didn't add the grease.

I set the gaps, and put the flywheel on and did a hand spin with plugs out to verify spark. Sparks okay, so I torqued the flywheel to 105 ft/lb. And replaced the generator pulley, belt, recoil starter and the wire and spring linkage to the lever on top of the recoil housing.

Reattached the vacuum hose at the rear.

When I got the new plugs, I bought some webbing and used an oxygen sensor socket (the tall type with slit side) with the webbing and breaker bar as a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while torquing.

I put a few squirts of fuel oil mix into the cylinders before screwing in the plugs. The engine kicked and died, but I knew I had spark then. After some more fuel primes I eventually got it to start.

Now working on tuning the carb -- but enough for today. Good to hear it start!

Thanks to all!

 

[lindy46]

Glad she's running!

 

[oldboat1]

The automatic choke may work (overridden by manual setting if it doesn't) -- need a working thermostat, so might want to service the t.stat. Good idea to check it anyway, along with the water pump (which is always a first priority).

 

[SteveVT]

Thanks Lindy and oldboat! Nice to have something run again after that amount of time, and eventually get use out of it. I have a 1951 John Deere Model M tractor, and a ford 850 with backhoe that I brought back to life from a basket case.

The automatic choke works well, and the motor is able to idle after I removed and cleaned the low speed needle and packing nut, and also adjusted the selectric shifter idle stop, and the idle speed via the cable adjuster at the motor. The water pump kit was already ordered, and I did not go any faster than a fast idle for a short time, checking head temps with my hand when running for more than few seconds. I tested only with hose and outboard flusher, but will re-check with a 55 gal barrel today.