force 50 hp after cleaning the dirty points i still have no spark

[forty5goingon65]

well after checking the easy solutions i finally broke down and took the fly wheel off should of did that in the first place i guess but any way the points are corroded with dry acid like you find on your battery under your truck or car hood i cleaned the points up and still have no spark i unhooked the rectifier still no spark so i took off the stop button and when i turn the engine and put a test light to the yellow wire coming from the stator it lights up when the motor is turning over so should that not mean my stator is good i was wondering because the motor sat for a while could both coils maybe shot any help would be appreciated thanks forty5going65

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: force 50 hp no spark found problem but need more help

Re: force 50 hp no spark found problem but need more help

Don't go for the electronic unit-- It won't work well with the magneto ignition and not at all with battery and coils and you will need two of them anyway. Once you clean the points and set them, you will have good old reliable magneto ignition which will almost never go bad, or battery and coil ignition which is just as reliable. If cleaned and set properly, the points will also last a long time before needing attention again. Unless the condenser cases corrode and split, they last almost forever too.

I have a 1967 Chrysler 55 with boucoup hours on it--too many to count, and it is only on the second set of points

IF the engine is the same as the Chrysler, point gap should be set at .020

Flywheel torque should be somewhere around 85 foot pounds I don't remember the exact number but someone else will surely jump in with it.

 

[forty5goingon65]

Re: force 50 hp no spark found problem but need more help

Re: force 50 hp no spark found problem but need more help

Don't go for the electronic unit-- It won't work well with the magneto ignition and not at all with battery and coils and you will need two of them anyway. Once you clean the points and set them, you will have good old reliable magneto ignition which will almost never go bad, or battery and coil ignition which is just as reliable. If cleaned and set properly, the points will also last a long time before needing attention again. Unless the condenser cases corrode and split, they last almost forever too.

I have a 1967 Chrysler 55 with beaucoup hours on it--too many to count, and it is only on the second set of points

IF the engine is the same as the Chrysler, point gap should be set at .020

Flywheel torque should be somewhere around 85 foot pounds I don't remember the exact number but someone else will surely jump in with it.

ok thanks the points dont look pitted just corroded from sitting for a while i dont know how long the engine has been sitting with out running but every thing under the cowell looks like new almost like somebody before me put some new parts on it hoping that was the problem i know the fly wheel has not been off for a while it took a little persuasion and WD 40 to get it off. i bought the boat 16ft sea sprite trailer and motor for $350 canadian the boat has no leaks the transom is solid there was a guy who looked at the boat before me and said to the guy i bought the boat off of that there was no compression in the engine because he could turn it over by hand it didn't make sense to me because even though it is electric start it still has a piece on the fly wheel for a pull rope plus it was in neutral i brought the boat home took out the plugs hooked up a battery turned it over and it seems to have a lot of compression i dont know how much yet i am going to borrow a gauge and test it in a couple days i will let you know what i get thanks again