Force 85 Hp 1989

[dayton2001]

New question........Is there a way to check and see if my overtemp alarm is working? I see a wire running into a something inside the block that looks like it may be my temp sensor???????????????? If this is my temp sensor is there a way to see if it works without overheating the engine. Just want to make sure it is working before I take it to the water to see if everything else works on the boat. Floats and gets up to speed and all that stuff. Very concerned about overtemping...seems to be a common mistake for newbies. If I could test the overtemp buzzer/siren/alarm or whatever it is called before i go to the lake and know it works I would feel alot better about testing it out for the first time.

Also waiting for an exhaust spout(I believe it is called) ordered that, seems it may be important to keep the exhaust away from the propeller. Lower unit was missing that when i bought the boat.

Thanks again to all for the help.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Force 85 Hp 1989

First you need to know the circuit so it makes sense

One wire from the buzzer comes from the "I" terminal of the ignition switch to the buzzer. This supplies power to the buzzer when the ignition is on. If the power comes from the "B" or battery terminal, or a constant source of 12 volts, the buzzer will continue to sound even with the ignition key off if the engine has overheated. Very annoying so it is better to be connected to "I" terminal. That way if the engine overheats, you turn it off and there is no buzzer to annoy you while waiting for the engine to cool.

OK--that was a little diversion. So: power from "I" terminal to buzzer. Then other wire from buzzer connects to orange wire in thick black engine cable.
At engine, orange wire connects to overheat terminal. Other orange wire in loom is already connected to this terminal and goes to overheat sensor in the head. Overheat sensor is a bi-metallic switch. It gets hot and closes the circuit to ground. So when overheated, current flows from switch through buzzer, through sensor to ground.

If you want to check the buzzer (or light--whichever it has) with the ignition switch on, jump the orange terminal on engine to ground. Buzzer should sound.

If the sensor is the bi-metallic disc held into the head with an internal circlip and rubber plug, remove the circlip and gently pull out the plug and bi-metal disc. With the ignition switch on, heat the bi-metal disc with a match and hold against a good ground. Buzzer should sound.

The bi-metal disc is a dirt simple and rugged switch. It has been my experience that they rarely go bad. Most likely a wire will break or the buzzer will corrode inside and stop functioning.

Now that is the typical switch for your engine. BUT, it may have a sensor on top of the head with the orange wire connected with a nut. It could have a screw in sensor between the top two spark plugs. All three of these were used on various engine models.

If you have a temp. gauge in the dashboard, then there will be a sending unit on top of the head and again, the orange wire attaches to the top with a nut.

On these engines, it is either a temp. gauge or an overheat sensor with the factory orange wiring, you can not have both.

 

[dayton2001]

Re: Force 85 Hp 1989

Thanks for the help Frank.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Force 85 Hp 1989

The exhaust snout has two purposes.

1. It directs exhaust away from the prop and keeps it from ventilating the prop. Without the snout, prop efficiency would be very much reduced.

2. The snout also acts as a trim tab for neutral steering at speed. When you install the snout, there will be two slots in it; one in front and a smaller one inside the rear. Install the snout so the rear of it is very slightly to the starboard (right). NOW at the speed which you will usually use the engine, determine to which direction the front of the boat turns or wants to turn as you are holding the wheel to keep it straight. By relocating either or both slots, move the rear of the snout in this direction a little at a time until the boat wants to go straight.

Since this setting varies with type and size of prop, and also varies with speed and tilt (trim) of the engine, we set the snout trim at the speed which we most usually run the boat and engine. and while it may be possible to eliminate most of the turning force, it may not be possible to eliminate all of it. However, you should be able to get the steering to an acceptable level of input while going straight

The front of the snout is held on with a special bolt. It is a very low head 5/8 inch hex head for low drag. If you do not have one, you can order it---it is standard on ALL large Force engines before Merc changed the lower unit. Or you can use a regular 5/16 bolt but it needs a flat washer underneath it and will have more drag; you could grind the head down to say 3/32 - 1/8 inch high. The rear bolt should be a 5/16 allen head bolt to provide room for adjustment. Use a stainless lock washer under the head. In any case, use anti-seize on both bolts so they don't corrode in.

 

[dayton2001]

Re: Force 85 Hp 1989

Thanks again Frank, This is my first boat and have been educated 10 fold from this help from people like you. I am waiting for the exhaust snout before taking it out the first time. (about 10 days).

I have the engine running pretty well, still not sure if it is pumping water, tried to ground the overtemp buzzer today with no luck. Have a new impeller, waiting on a gasket in case I need it.

Thinking about buying a tachometer and temp gauge and installing them both.

So far laid new carpet in the boat, took out all the old interior and almost done with putting in new interior.

Engine runs great out of the water, as soon as I lower it into a bucket of water it seems it start running a little rough. Hope it is being caused by exhaust snout.

Thanks again for all the help. Derrick