Force 85hp Controls @WOT but carb butterflies only 3/4 open.

[DunbarLtd]

I did the lync and sync that is at the top of this forum to the T and I can get the carby flies to open fully all together without the cable connected. I adjusted the towershaft link rod correctly onto the cam. The cam is not bent. The roller has been adjusted out so that the line on the cam is tangent to the roller. I think Ive covered everything i need to.

But when I go to connect the cable while in neutral and go to the controls and give it WOT i cannot for the life of me set it up to get the carby flies to open fully. They get about 75-80% and thats it. This boat originally had the US Marine control box that was broken when i bought the boat. I purchased a Teleflex SL3 controller and have it hooked up in the proper holes.

Is there something that can be worn out on the engine side i cant see that causes this? I even spun the quick connect in (towards bow of boat) a little so i had to pull on it to get it on the ball stud and still only get 3/4 WOT. Not sure whats going on but its very frustrating to say the least.

Also Ive purchased new cables so im not too sure they are stretched out.

Any help is definitely appreciated.

Edit: Ive included a link to the manual for the control box if that helps. Its a side mount (starboard).

Also I am using 33c cables with threaded ends and quick disconnects.

http://www.nauticassistance.com/Cms_...r%20manual.pdf

 

[jerryjerry05]

Like I explained in the other forum.
The butterflies don't need to be open/flat to be wide open throttle.

Post pics of the new shifter.
​Did you compare the length of the shift arms?

The link and sink done right?
The static timing if done wrong can kill the top end rpm's.

 

[pnwboat]

You need to determine if there is enough cable movement in the throttle handle to move the throttle cam to WOT. These motors haven't been produced since 1999, so depending on when the throttle handle was produced, the instructions may or may not be correct. It sounds like you may not have enough cable movement when you move the throttle handle. I would ignore the instructions and connect the cable to the hole in the handle that is farthest away from the pivot point. This will maximize the amount of cable movement.

Also, don't get too focused on getting the line on the throttle cam perfectly lined up with the roller. This is OK to get you into the ball park on the initial adjustment, but once you get everything adjusted properly and fine tuned and idling at the correct RPM's, it may not be perfectly lined up.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Y I would ignore the instructions and connect the cable to the hole in the handle that is farthest away from the pivot point. This will maximize the amount of cable movement.

There are only 2 holes to attach the cable end onto the throttle arm at the controls. I chose the further one, which is what the chart instructs to do. The throttle arm runs horizontal (while installed on side panel) and the shift arm runs vertical. The shift arm has a top and bottom mount option with 3 holes in each. I realized i had to get the cable pushing or pulling correctly first so what i did was look at the old control and see which way the arm was being thrown and then hooked up the cable end on the new control so that it pushes or pulls the same way.

The distance the arms throws is 3.5" on the new and old control. What i didnt notice in the instructions was that it said to hook up the shift cable in WOT forward gear. I guess to eliminate preload is what it says. I had to go online actually to find these detailed instructions. It was not included in the box it came in. So after hooking it up that way i do believe i have WOT now when the handle is pushed forward to approx 90 degrees. I initially tried hooking it up in neutral, forward gear and reverse and wasnt getting it right. When i moved the handle to WOT it seemed to do the trick.

When in neutral the neutral safety switch is being pressed although i suppose i could move it towards front of boat a couple mm but i assume as long as its depressed thats all that matters. And i did the measurements on the shift rod where they can be accessed through ther middle of the lower leg. The manual says to go to forward and reverse and measure the distance and then set neutral in the middle of this measurement. When i did this the neutral safety switch didnt seem to line perfectly up with the shift linkage arm. The key is that it is being depressed when i come out of reverse and also out of forward. I suppose i could adjust it if i have problems starting.

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry for not having much knowledge on the subject and sounding ignorant but its my first boat. Have a great day!

 

[jerryjerry05]

DO!!! adjust the neutral safety switch to center on the arm.
​It will make it work after the cables initial stretching or settling in.