Re: Force outboard Trigger Question
The trigger is a fine wire wrapped around a soft iron core. When the small inside magnet on the flywheel hub passes it, a small voltage is generated. This voltage signals a transistor in the CD box to open and dump the charge in the capacitor into the coil. As long as the stator is generating a charge to the CD boxes (separate coils from battery charge coils), the trigger magnet is OK, and the trigger wires are not broken (infinite resistance) then nothing under the flywheel can stop the spark.
If the oil you see under the flywheel looks like used TCW-3, then you have a leaking top seal. That requires removing the stator, trigger, and stator mount, and installing a new seal in the stator mount.
If you are getting no spark on any cylinders, then check the flywheel rim magnet and the hub magnet. A weak hub magnet will not generate enough voltage in the triggers to signal the transistors. Weak rim magnets will not generate enough voltage to have the coil step it up to the 60,000 volts necessary to fire the plugs.
I would consider it too much coincidence for all three triggers to be bad, but stranger things have happened. I also would consider it rare for both ignition charge coils in the stator to be bad unless you have overheated the stator and melted the insulation. So eyeball the stator. The fine wire windings are ignition and the coarse wires are battery charge. If the insulation on the fine wires is in good condition and there is some resistance (Perhaps on the order of 3000 ohms for each pair of wires --usually yellow/brown and blue/brown--other than battery) then you can assume for now that the stator is good.
At any rate, if you have no spark on any cylinder, you still need to check all ignition components. CD boxes, coils, stator, triggers, and most importantly the ground. A broken or high resistance ground to the electronics mounting plate will prevent any spark.
