Frank, Force 125 froze small drain L/U Allen screw..read on ..

[Scaaty]

Frank, ya nailed it! Way easy to just yank the anode and remove the bottom carrier bolts. My 1988 125 sits in salt 3 months the year motor tilted up but bullet still in the water. I don't feel like doing the drilling out, resize the drain even as I am a Machinist.. Easier to just yank the lower, do a new impeller, fill and vent screws out, tilt sideways, and drain the oil. But I did a new impeller 2 years ago, and pumps water fine. So I did what suggested you. Mostly check for water intrusion. Well oil is black, zero water. Draining now. And the O Rings the bolts look fine and held the water back. Be replaced anyway, as never re use a O-Ring.Thanks the "knowledge"..."the easy way!"

 

[SkiDad]

I have to do the same thing to mine - drain plug is frozen but like you said Franks suggestion works great. now if I only knew what rubber washers I need to order - the ones on there look a little ratty.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Something you can do to remove the drain plug.
Leave the oil in open one or more of the fill/vent plugs.
A small torch and heat it .Even a blast with a ox/actelene torch.
Not too much or the alum will melt.
If the plug's been stripped?? Try a metric Allen wrench
An easy out can be used in drastic cases.
Since it sets in water: I used a really thick paint that dries really hard(won't wear off)and cover the plug..
I also left my 21 in the water and the nose cones were in the water.
I put 3 5 gal buckets of water in the nose and it raised the drives up enough to keep them out.

 

[Scaaty]

I have to do the same thing to mine - drain plug is frozen but like you said Franks suggestion works great. now if I only knew what rubber washers I need to order - the ones on there look a little ratty.

The bottom bolts are simple O-Rings, so replace them as a one shot deal, do not reuse. Any o-ring kit will have that size. On the fill vent gaskets? I have extras, but any boat place should have them. Just take the old screw and gasket in to compare.

 

[Scaaty]

Something you can do to remove the drain plug.
Leave the oil in open one or more of the fill/vent plugs.
A small torch and heat it .Even a blast with a ox/actelene torch.
Not too much or the alum will melt.
If the plug's been stripped?? Try a metric Allen wrench
An easy out can be used in drastic cases.
Since it sets in water: I used a really thick paint that dries really hard(won't wear off)and cover the plug..
I also left my 21 in the water and the nose cones were in the water.
I put 3 5 gal buckets of water in the nose and it raised the drives up enough to keep them out.

Been a Machinist 21 years, and have damn near ever tool made. Tried the red/green wrench, and trust me, that sucker is STUCK! And the last thing I would do is try a EZ out. Break too easy, and now you will have a hell of time if you try to drill and re tap larger plug. This way works fine as gets most the oil out, and as long as not "milky", fill up and forget it until the next time. Or if you need to yank the L/U for say a new impeller, just lay it on its side, drain and vent screws out, and it all drains out that way.

 

[foodfisher]

Wonder if the corrosion buildup could exert enough pressure to eventually crack the housing?

 

[Scaaty]

Wonder if the corrosion buildup could exert enough pressure to eventually crack the housing?

No way. Its probably a 1/2 thick the nose. I've had mine totally apart to replace a snapped D/S. Its thick up there as if ya hit something under way, it won't shatter.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The drain plug has a boss or buildup around the hole.
I too have used the tilt and drain on some drives.