Picked this up cheap. I'm pretty sure it's the powerhead. I really don't want to invest in a complete rebuild of this, so have a couple of questions.
Can I take the lower unit off/out and not rebuild it to ensure it is the power head that's locked up, or should I remove the powerhead from the top?
If I pulled the lower unit, I always see you're supposed to replace the O ring at the top of the driveshaft, is that really necessary, and what does that O ring really do?
Assuming it's the powerhead that's frozen, I've ensured no fuel or water is in the whole unit, pulled the plugs (looked great), and put about a tablespoon of solvent type oil in, and left it with pistons up (put plugs in to keep from evaporating, as well as crud out of cylinders).
I'd like to get some oil in the crankcase/crankshaft area as well. Removing the carb isn't a problem, but how hard is it to remove and then replace the reed valve? I'm just thinking of pulling the reed valve and putting oil, or oil and gas mixture, or that solvent oil I have, inside before trying to make it move by some sort of force.
Next, after getting things soaked well for several days, my plan was to use a dowel through the spark plug holes and give it a few whacks with a lightweight hammer to see if the pistons will at least move. This is on the theory that the most likely place to have frozen (since there's no obvious salt or water corrosion anywhere else), would be the rings to the cylinder walls.
If no movement, I'll pull the head and get a better view of the cylinders to see if salvageable at all. If some movement, lots more solvent/oil and light taps more, as well as trying the flywheel to turn.
More questions, or answers, or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Rich
Can I take the lower unit off/out and not rebuild it to ensure it is the power head that's locked up, or should I remove the powerhead from the top?
If I pulled the lower unit, I always see you're supposed to replace the O ring at the top of the driveshaft, is that really necessary, and what does that O ring really do?
Assuming it's the powerhead that's frozen, I've ensured no fuel or water is in the whole unit, pulled the plugs (looked great), and put about a tablespoon of solvent type oil in, and left it with pistons up (put plugs in to keep from evaporating, as well as crud out of cylinders).
I'd like to get some oil in the crankcase/crankshaft area as well. Removing the carb isn't a problem, but how hard is it to remove and then replace the reed valve? I'm just thinking of pulling the reed valve and putting oil, or oil and gas mixture, or that solvent oil I have, inside before trying to make it move by some sort of force.
Next, after getting things soaked well for several days, my plan was to use a dowel through the spark plug holes and give it a few whacks with a lightweight hammer to see if the pistons will at least move. This is on the theory that the most likely place to have frozen (since there's no obvious salt or water corrosion anywhere else), would be the rings to the cylinder walls.
If no movement, I'll pull the head and get a better view of the cylinders to see if salvageable at all. If some movement, lots more solvent/oil and light taps more, as well as trying the flywheel to turn.
More questions, or answers, or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Rich