Frozen Morse Lever Set

[NetDoc]

I was given an old glass runabout circa 1968. It has 270 clearly marked on the Volvo Penta Outdrive and has GM 2770087 cast into the block. I have been told that it's an Iron Duke, but if memory serves me right, they have cross flow heads with the intake on the starboard and exhaust on the port. This has both on the port side.

Morse Lever Set​

When I first tried the lever set it was solidly stuck. I removed the cotter pin and lower cable (goes to the tranny) and now the lever moves, albeit a bit stiffly. I can feel a spring loaded detente that is roughly in the middle. When I move the lever forward or aft from this point the accelerator moves. The button on the side seems to engage/disengage the lower lever to the trans cable. It moves now that the cable has been disconnected.

So, what next? Do I disconnect the cable into the trans? If so, how? Also, what is the front button on the lever for? I really can't see up into to figure that out.

For what it's worth, here is a pic of the engine. I do want to accurately ID it.

Starboard

Port​

 

[Don S]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

When I first tried the lever set it was solidly stuck. I removed the cotter pin and lower cable (goes to the tranny) and now the lever moves, albeit a bit stiffly.

Remove the other cable (throttle) and see if the shifter moves easier. About 99% of the time the cables fail and not the control. Unless the control is forced, then they go bad.

Engine wise, you have a unique setup. Volvo never used that engine, and from the looks of it, it's a Mercruiser setup. Not sure how it was adapted to the outdrive.
Could you post a picture of the outdrive, the 270 drive was not even invented in 68, so we might as well figure out what you have.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Thanks for the insight! Here are two pictures (from the starboard side). Let me know if you need more!

Outdrive

Outdrive showing "270"​

 

[Don S]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

It appears to be a 200 model. with a 270 emblem stuck on it. The reason is, if you look at the picture below, the two screws holding the top of the cover was only used on a 200. The 250 and up use a single screw at the top of that back cover.




Look here and see if there are any numbers on the tag.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

I can see writing, but I just can't make it out until I drop the outdrive. The wiring is toast: literally. I want to start the engine before I go too far. To do that I need to change the oil and hot wire the pump and the ignition circuit. I have never owned a boat before and while I have 30+ years experience as an auto mechanic and have engineered on big boat, this is all new and fascinating to me. Thanks for your help here.

 

[Don S]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Why are you going to drop the whole outdrive?

 

[wellcraft19]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

As you correctly figured out, one button does (or should) disengage the "shift" cable so you can increase the rev of the engine, w/o having to put it in gear (just like hitting the accelerator on a car while you have the transmission in "Neutral").

The other button should be a "Neutral lock". Or in other words; in order to engage the transmission in forward or reverse and "get going", you would have to push or pull that button. Essentially a safety device to ensure that you do do inadvertently put "the thing in gear" ...(can easily otherwise happen on boat that is rocking on the waves).

Good luck and welcome to iBoats. Some truly amazing people here with ever more amazing memory and wealth of information they are willing to share.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Why are you going to drop the whole outdrive?

By drop, I mean to lower. I am not going to remove the outdrive. In it's present position, I cannot read those numbers.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

The other button should be a "Neutral lock".

Can you 'splain how it works? It seems to be frozen, but I don't know how its supposed to work.

 

[Don S]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

From the neutral position, you should be able to pull the button out. This will release the shifter, and only the throttle will work.
In those older models, you has to go to neutral and push the button back in for the shifter to work.
In your picture, the button is pushed in.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

From the neutral position, you should be able to pull the button out. This will release the shifter, and only the throttle will work.
In those older models, you has to go to neutral and push the button back in for the shifter to work.
In your picture, the button is pushed in.

Yeah, I got that for that... I was referring to the one in front. What does it do and how does it do it?

 

[Don S]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Yeah, I got that for that... I was referring to the one in front. What does it do and how does it do it?

Have no clue what it is. But if it was mine, I would sure be pushing it and finding out what it does.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Have no clue what it is. But if it was mine, I would sure be pushing it and finding out what it does.

I've tried, but It's hard fast... time for a mirror to see what I can see. I have successfully removed the lever and I sort of see how to remove the other cable, but I can not pry it off of the lever easily. I want to pull the entire assembly out to inspect it.

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Frozen Morse Lever Set

I got the title to the boat today: it's listed as a fibrabts. I guess that's Fibra Boats? I am guessing this is Fibra Boats out of Clearwater Fl. There was an interesting law suit at that time Hunt vs Fibra of Clearwater Fl

 

[NetDoc]

Update: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Update: Frozen Morse Lever Set

Sorry gang, I did not mean to leave this for so long, but the rest of the boat has had my attention. Sunday, I finally pulled out the known frozen cable out (shift) and was actually able to disconnect the throttle cable by removing the cotter pin. The Morse throttle was still way stiff and I could move the throttle cable in and out with mere finger pressure. Yesterday, I pulled the lever assembly and took it apart. Corrosion on the body was the culprit. A bit of emery paper, and anti-corrosion grease, and it's now works perfectly. The "button" on the front was not a button at all. It housed the spring for the accelerator detente to let the operator know when you have centered the lever. I cleaned and lubed them so I can now feel the detentes when I operate the lever. Tomorrow I will reassemble it on the boat with the throttle cable. I will be getting the replacement shift cable on Wednesday and hope to have the boat in the water by Thursday.

Today I shimmed up the port deck support with a 3/4" spacer, installed the most important piece of gear (the stereo) and started to install the VHF transceiver. The middle window closes easily now. I just need to get it measured to have Plexiglas installed. Here is what I have left to do:

• Install & connect lever set. DONE!
• Realign throttle cable holder on carburetor. DONE!
• Vacuum Debris DONE!
• Modify Battery compartment and install Deep cycle battery. DONE!
• Install hold down strap on starting battery. DONE!
• Move Electric Fuel Pump. DONE!
• Plug Carburetor Vent. DONE!
• Hook up coil DONE!
• Install Alternator charging wire. DONE!
• Run tach wire (should be on UPS) DONE!
• Terminate and hook up low oil pressure and alt lights in the engine compartment (wires already pulled). DONE!
• Terminate Front Compartment Power Feed and mount Battery Switch. DONE!
• Start engine.
• Install Blower.
• Install both bilge pumps. One auto and one on demand. I have to drill another vent through the hull for this.
• Run wires & install switches for both pumps and blower.
• Finish wiring and testing tilt relays and switch. NEED WIRING SCHEMATICS!!!
• Mount Bow and stern navigation lights (LED). I drilled the bow for the LED port/starboard light this afternoon. The stern hole is already there.
• Run navigation light wires.
• Finish install of VHF.
• Make sure the VHF antennae will raise.
• Attach flag pulley, line and cleat on VHF antennae.
• Install speakers and finish install of stereo.
• Install water protector for stereo. DONE!
• Install/wire horn and button. Attach whistle to dash.
• Buy & install depth sounder for dash.
• Install SO shift cable and test (Due in Wednesday).
• Install baffles (engine compartment)
• Finish the transfer of ownership. DONE!
• Put new ID on boat.

 

[NetDoc]

Steering...

Steering...

The steering is a Hydraflex. I added hydraulic fluid through the upper hole this past Sunday with a tube made especially for this operation. I attached the fluid bottle to the window and just kept turning the wheel until it stopped bubbling and the steering worked. There might be a leak in the steering pump/assembly as it let loose a lot of oil. Two days later and the steering still seems to work, but I think I will have to reseal that pump. I spent half the day in a dive shop servicing the valves today and it was raining off and on the rest of the day. Losing most of the day sucks when you are THIS freakin' close. I have a sales meeting for lunch to sell advertising for my site (ScubaBoard.com), but I hope to spend MOST of the day on the boat. I want to get it in the water!!!

 

[NetDoc]

Re: Steering...

Re: Steering...

Speaking of dumb luck. When I approached removing the lever set, I was intimidated by my lack of knowledge and the tight spaces between the lever set and the hull. I figured it would be Phillips Screws and I was wrong. When the Phillips did not work, I tried a 7/16" socket: too small. I also found that a 3/8" socket was too small. Metric? I was barely able to wiggle a 10mm 6 point 1/4" socket and the screw came right out. I was surprised that the screw was quite hard to remove from the socket. Surprise! It was a perfectly round fillister screw and the 10mm was still able to undo it. Kewl. In fact, the 10mm socket was able to extract ALL of the screws holding the plate onto the throttle/shifter lever.

 

[sqbtr]

Re: Steering...

Re: Steering...

How about a pic of this patent infringing hull.

There is no trim on that drive, it is tilt only.Would like to see some pics of the flywheel cover and how they hooked that engine to that drive. Interesting to see if it is a viable replacement for the penta 4 cyls.

 

[wellcraft19]

Re: Steering...

Re: Steering...

Good update and good luck when you dunk.
Would be fun to see a photo of the entire boat with a proud owner

 

[johnmorgan]

Re: Steering...

Re: Steering...

I have the same shifter as you, I just seen this thread I might of been able to help you when you needed it, but you figured it out. I have a 270 out drive and my lifter motor was broken so I took it apart, stole the old shaft from the broken motor and used a drill on the end to lower my leg works good. Those motors are really hard to find. Is your motor a 120 merc?