Frustrated - 59 Seahorse. Spark

Wave1960

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Nov 11, 2016
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So still dealing with little to no spark. Had a little spark and motor ran. Now have none after coils, points, condensors, plug wires, seems to be none. Used the cool ring to set distance of coil setback. Resistance from lower cylinder plug wire to armature plate is 600 Ohms. Upper plug wire is 1000 ohms. Now motor won't start either.

Did I short upper wire? Points are clean and gap is .020.

Ideas?
 

F_R

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Those resistance readings are way off. Should be a few k-Ohms. Since they are new coils, there must be another problem. I would say plug wires, but you say they are new. Sorry, but you are going to have to track this one down on your own. It isn't going to be a "normal" or common problem.

OR....your readings are incorrect.
 

F_R

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Remove the coils and check the resistance between the plug wire socket/pin and ground wire. See if they are not a few k-Ohms without the wire attached.
 

boobie

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Do you have the wiring on the mag plate correct ?? Points, condensers, stop wires and ect ??
 

oldboat1

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Set your meter to 1K ohms setting before testing, and try again. How are you testing spark? Should use an adjustable tester, and make sure you have a good ground. Test with both plugs removed, and make sure it gets a good spin. Likewise when compression testing (plugs out). What are the compression readings?
 

Wave1960

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Retested resistance. At Rx1 it is barely noticeable. At Rx1k I get 6 (6,000?) And 11 . Have checked spark down to a minimal gap and several ground locations. Perhaps bad plug connection at pin or plug assembly? Compression always been 80 / 80.
 

Wave1960

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Oh... and was pretty carefully to get components wired as they came off. I always take lots of pictures. I suspect the high tech build em yourself plug wires.....
 
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oldboat1

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What hp are we talking about? Compression readings would be low for a 35, good for a 5. Resistance seems to be borderline high (6K) to too high (11K). Plug wires have to be the solid core type (7mm), not automotive style.
 

F_R

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Ok, your new information goes along with what I said they should be "a few k-Ohms". Or said another way, "a few thousand". In this case a few is 6 and 11. While that is quite a spread, I don't find particular fault with them. Except perhaps the 11.

The reason I said a few k-Ohms, is because the number varies with different mfrs. That's ok and a result of the length and diameter of wire they chose to use. As long as it is compatible with the primary winding, no problem.
 

oldboat1

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Maybe some corrosion at the spring connectors, if originals? Might ream them out a little with a phillips screwdriver.
 

Joe Reeves

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You're installing "New" coils and plug wires... Both!

The inner connection of the coil is a spiral pointed prong. The plug wire attaches to that prong with a twisting pushing motion... you'll feel the tension when it's in far enough. Do this attachment before installing and install as a unit of course. A little WD40 makes the plug wire installation go a bit easier.

The coil may be installed with the locating ring... OR... by aligning the metal portion of the coil yoke with the inside edge of the slight bevel you see on the aluminum plate where the coil sits.

The rubber boot, spark plug end.... With the wire cut to the length required, trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above. Holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire. Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes). Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project.

Set the points by having the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the points (proper timing)... set the points so that a .020 will slide though... BUT... a ;022 will not.

That should do it unless you have a ignition switch setup and you left the key off. :)
 
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Wave1960

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I imagine the coils being of two different manufacture may be reason for difference ( 6 and 11) in ohms. Plug wires are high end automotive tho. I just ordered OEM ones. Any other items affect the ignition I may be missing?
 

racerone

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Well , there you have it, automotive carbon wires does not work here.-----Wire core must be used !!
 

F_R

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I imagine the coils being of two different manufacture may be reason for difference ( 6 and 11) in ohms. Plug wires are high end automotive tho. I just ordered OEM ones. Any other items affect the ignition I may be missing?


Yep, car wires have resistance, which adds to the resistance of the coil. And the longer the wire, the more resistance it adds. That explains the high reading you are getting. Wire wire will bring it down to where it belongs.
 
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