Fuel Delivery Issue GLP-J

[tgell001]

2010 volvo 3.0L GLP-J

Fuel pump went out last season and i replaced it with an electric mr gastket pump and it seemed to run fine at the very end of last year but did have a little studder similar to right now but i figure it was a crappy pump. This season the mr gasket pump was already bad (affirming my suspicion it was a crappy pump) and wouldn't move any gas. So, i replaced it with a carter pump for a TBI motor and put a holley fuel pressure regulator and gauge.

Engine starts fine with with only a few turns of the starter even when its cold. But when I give it gas it cuts of, even the slightest bit of gas. I let it idle for a while to get it up to temp and if i pump the throttle to get it over the "hump" itll rev fine and run fine but when i back it off it all the way off to idle it stalls. I've been playing with the fuel pressure to try and remedy the problem but it does it all the way from 5 psi up to 9 psi (afraid to go higher). lower than 5 it studders and cuts off. Also, at 2000rpm i let it just run while i tweeked the pressure and it kind of sounds like its got a little miss, but not enough for it to shake the motor and it doesnt do it at idle so i might be hearing things.

I'm starting to think that theres something else going on? like a clogged jet? Does this carb have separate idle jets? (Demon 2bbl) and if so can I easily remove the jets for cleaning without removing the carb? (i know i can on my motorcycle) and if i do need to remove it do i need the gasket kit to reinstall it?

If there was a clog in the tank wouldn't my upstream fuel pressure suffer? I think i would just thinking back to fluids class

Any other ideas? cuz i'm over this boat its been a pain in my butt for 2 years and i just want to get it ready to sell but have a conscience and karma's a B

 

[bruceb58]

Sounds like you need a carb rebuild. Be careful running it this way as it is likely running in a lean condition.

 

[tgell001]

I see sierra has a bunch of gasket kits and so does demon but which one is the right one? All the Volvo literature just says "discontinued" for their rebuild kits. Is it possibly an idle mix issue? I have adjusted them but I could swear I put them back where they started. I'm pretty sure I can rebuild the carb, ive done four motorcycle ones, albeit those carbs are pretty simple.

I've been reading a lot about people having this same issue... as with the other expensive problems I've had on a boat 4 years old. Volvo penta has some serious quality issues they need to deal with. Local dealership stopped dealing their stuff all together due to quality.

 

[bruceb58]

Volvo Penta doesn't make the carbs. They don't make the engines. They don't make the fuel that goes into the carbs.

 

[Thalasso]

Or the pumps

 

[bruceb58]

Once you get your carb fixed and replace the pump with the correct pump, put in a fuel filter so you don't get the same problem in the future.

 

[tgell001]

But they did make the trim hydraulic pump that exploded and the impeller that leaks every two years. And more so what I meant was they source cheap parts as a cost savings.

 

[HalfFish5087]

2010 volvo 3.0L GLP-J

Fuel pump went out last season and i replaced it with an electric mr gastket pump and it seemed to run fine at the very end of last year but did have a little studder similar to right now but i figure it was a crappy pump. This season the mr gasket pump was already bad (affirming my suspicion it was a crappy pump) and wouldn't move any gas. So, i replaced it with a carter pump for a TBI motor and put a holley fuel pressure regulator and gauge.

I would start by putting a factory pump back on, not another piecemeal job. Your replacement may give you the pressure you need, but that doesn't mean you have the same flow. Also, I would highly doubt that the gasket kit you need is discontinued as I just rebuilt my carb which is on a '98 with Volvo dealer replacement parts (with non-stick gaskets).

Lastly you keep blaming Volvo, but from what I'm seeing it's more than likely user error than their faulty parts.

 

[bruceb58]

I looked back at some of your posts. You have been having this problem for awhile(2 years maybe). Did you ever do what DonS recommended over a year ago to put in a separate water separating filter?

What is the condition of the fuel in your tank?

 

[tgell001]

yes moisture separating fueling filter got installed per his advice when that thread was started last year. Ran it that weekend and the fuel pump when out all together (disconnected the feed line to the carb and couldn't get any fuel to pump out with cranking the motor with starter only and using some starting fluid to get it to start for 15-20 seconds and still no gas), put the mr gasket pump on and it ran again but had a little studder (not as bad as now). And I didn't think replacing the mechanical pump with an electric was piece meal. First replacement was done because i was stranded with the boat in the water and no mechanical pump that would work was available at the small repair shop in the middle of nowhere that i had access too. Current install was done as an upgrade because in my research i found the diaphragm in the mechanical pumps is susceptible to failure because of the ethanol in gas. I spec'ed out the TBI pump purposefully for its flow rate and the fuel pressure regulator to accommodate the pressure limit of the carb (understanding flow is almost linear with pressure when demand is constant)

I have not inspected the tank, not really sure how to go about doing that. But after I talked with Don S early last year I pumped all the gas that was in the tank out and started fresh. I don't think the outlet for the tank is clogged because i can syphon with almost no effort and when the flow starts it goes fast.

I mean i'm not a marine mechanic but i would think even if my pump was not providing the flow needed it would be only noticeable when the demand was high, not at idle.

Found a carb rebuild kit on ebay for 20 bucks, and its on the way. But historically, everything i try is not the problem. Guess on the bright side with the amount shops charge for trouble shooting and repairs i can screw it up 3 times and still come out ahead dollar wise

 

[bruceb58]

I agree, I don't think your fuel pump is your issue. It's your carb.

Once you get this figured out, you do need to have an oil pressure switch inline with the electric fuel pump if you haven't already done so to make sure the pump does not run with the engine off.

Have you ever run off an external tank?

 

[tgell001]

Oil pressure switch eh? I have it wired to an ignition controlled relay so if the pump was on with the engine off its in the "ON" position and the boat chimes at me and is super annoying as to not forget. I ran an external tank last season and did not fix the problem. I adjusted the idle mix screws a half a turn out with the engine running and warm and it seemed to help the problem a lot. Got the studder to got away if I increase the throttle steadily. If I mash it, it still bogs (accelerator valve problem? probably still leaning out). Probably a bandaid, but I want to get her on the water to see how she performed under load. Maybe running a tank of seafoam thru it will help.

 

[bruceb58]

Idle jet screws are really only working at idle. Once you open the throttle they aren't in play anymore.

Running Seafoam is not going to solve your issue.

Out in an oil pressure switch or put in a mechanical pump. What you are doing is completely unsafe.

 

[tgell001]

Ok, I found the switches and researched the wiring logic behind them and makes total sense. Just can't think of a place to screw that into to read oil pressure other than the place where the gage sensor is hooked up.

 

[HalfFish5087]

I'm trying to follow, please clarify. This is what I understand: The original mech pump quit, then you replaced it with an electric mr. gasket pump, then that you replaced that with a carter TBI pump, and recently that died, and have recently put the mr. gasket electric pump back on. Correct?

I would seriously consider putting the factory pump back on if you still have it, unhook the fuel line to the carb and routing it into a bucket, grounding the coil, and turning the engine over to see if you get flow. If you want to keep the electric pump, I would use a oil pressure switch like bruce suggested. You may need to build a little plumbing to make this work with your existing oil pressure sender. And do the same to check flow.

If that all checks, it sounds like the power valve/accelerator pump in your carb is to blame.

Lastly, did you pump the water separator/filter before the pump?

 

[HalfFish5087]

I'm trying to follow, please clarify. This is what I understand: The original mech pump quit, then you replaced it with an electric mr. gasket pump, then that you replaced that with a carter TBI pump, and recently that died, and have recently put the mr. gasket electric pump back on. Correct?

I would seriously consider putting the factory pump back on if you still have it, unhook the fuel line to the carb and routing it into a bucket, grounding the coil, and turning the engine over to see if you get flow. If you want to keep the electric pump, I would use a oil pressure switch like bruce suggested. You may need to build a little plumbing to make this work with your existing oil pressure sender. And do the same to check flow.

If that all checks, it sounds like the power valve/accelerator pump in your carb is to blame.

Lastly, did you put the water separator/filter between the tank and pump?

 

[tgell001]

Mechanical pump quit end of last season, I disconnected the feed tube to the carb and cranked it quite a bit and no fuel came out. Mr Gasket pump went bad when I did the same check at the beginning of this season when it wouldn't start and I had spark. I would make noise but move no fuel. Put in the Carter pump and it was good, gas shot out like crazy.

Fuel filter and moisture separator are before the pump.

I'm going to order the oil pressure switch and figure I can "T" off the port for the sending unit and accommodate both provided theres enough space (I can't picture it). On the off chance I just can't figure out a way to make the safety switch work does anyone know a part number a mechanical pump that's cheap since I don't need the filter on the bottom anymore. The varying thing to most the pumps I see is the way the arm that is driven by the crank is oriented.

Have a carb rebuild kit on order already but do not particularly want to do that.

Like I said, I adjusted the idle mixture and it doesn't stall anymore when I give it gas... I'm guessing that (possibly among other concurrent problems) my idle mix was lean and when the throttle opened it was just too much air and died. I need to get it out on the water to test the power/performance under load and at variable RPM's

 

[HalfFish5087]

...

 

[bruceb58]

Have a carb rebuild kit on order already but do not particularly want to do that.

I think rebuilding the carb is the most important thing for you to do.

 

[HalfFish5087]

I think rebuilding the carb is the most important thing for you to do.

Agree. If you have pressure and sufficient flow from the pump, this is the only thing left to do. If its anything like my 2bbl holley, then it should be pretty easy I simply followed the manual and all went well.