G/Flex question on aluminum boats

[ShoestringMariner]

Question for you aluminum hull gurus;
I’m fixing up my old Starcraft riveted boat and I’m wondering what level I should go to with the G/Flex boat repair kit I bought. It’s supposed to seal any loose, leaky rivets and seams. This is an extra step to go with the Gluvit on the inside.

But I’m in a bit of a quandary though. Where my concerns of leaks are, is where the rivets pass through the keel and strakes. I can seal the rivet head, but I feel that unless I can completely the keel or strake, water will still be able to get inside because of the drain holes, thereby potentially getting to the rivet between the flange and hull skin.
The West System instructions (see pic) show sealing these but I can’t see how this can be 100% effective unless I seal the drain holes.

Should I seal these holes and install some type of threaded drain? (Not sure if this is even possible unless I drill and tap some fine machine thread and use a stainless pan head screw with rubber washer.

EDIT: Or am I overthinking this, if I seal the keel and strakes, will they act like a diving bell where trapped air inside will prevent them from filling completely with water?

Thanks in advance

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Nobody has has used G/Flex for this?

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

I have used g/flex for seams with great results. I heat the seam carefully with a torch before and during to ensure good penetration and trapped moisture is removed.
Rivets that leak after re bucking should be replaced.

 

[87Starcraft]

Don’t patch up those drain holes. Water will get trapped against the hull

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks guys, I left this project Way too long this fall and winter closed things down so I was not able to final leak test it after doing a rebuck and Gluvit inside. (all the local lakes were closed, the closest open launch was an hour plus away)
And as much as I did not want to fill the boat with water, I think I will do that now before I do the G flex. It’s a real nuisance to flip the boat again and put it back on the trailer and then turtle it one more time, but I think it’s best to do it now before I go any further.

My next project will be fibreglass lol. OK no it won’t be, but the rivets and hull are going to be absolutely pristine. I’m not going through all this again. I’ve learned that sometimes it’s best to leave a boat where it is no matter how bad you want it.

 

[MNhunter1]

Sorry, just seeing this now, otherwise would have replied earlier. Your best bet is to hit the rivet tails with the GFlex from the inside of the hull. You'll want to leave the drain holes open and I'm not sure coating the rivet head will necessarily address any potential leak points between the strake/keel and hull, just at the rivet head and strake/keel. I'm at a similar crossroads with the inside ribs - which is somewhat of a a reverse scenario where I'm probably better off hitting those from the outside of the hull.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Sorry, just seeing this now, otherwise would have replied earlier. Your best bet is to hit the rivet tails with the GFlex from the inside of the hull. You'll want to leave the drain holes open and I'm not sure coating the rivet head will necessarily address any potential leak points between the strake/keel and hull, just at the rivet head and strake/keel. I'm at a similar crossroads with the inside ribs - which is somewhat of a a reverse scenario where I'm probably better off hitting those from the outside of the hull.

Thanks for your thoughts. I’ve gone and forged to head with this. While the boat was upside down I decided to G flex all the rivets and seems on the outside. I have already done Gluvit on the inside. I’ve also done a water test by partially filling the boat with water and I hope I’ve got everything licked