gas tank

[SuzukiChopper]

This probably isn't the right place to post a question about gas tanks, so I'll mix in a few building questions too.<br /><br />To begin with, before I spend the money, is this type of tank suitable for an outboard: http://www.iboats.com/mall/index.cg...gas tank&**********=6096117&*******=341454897 <br />I know I have to still deal with the oil/gas/mix etc, etc, just wanted to make sure they weren't specifically for a fuel pump driven motor.<br /><br />Now the building question. What's the best way to take pressure off the hull so that the rollers don't deform it when putting in the new floor? I can't take the boat right off the trailer because I'm using my parents garage and have to be able to move the boat around to get it out of their way. I'd like to be able to keep the boat on the trailer and either take the roller pressure right off, or atleast distribute the weight. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: gas tank

That's the tank I have on my hydro. The engine doesn't know the difference. I did plumb it direct, leaving out those Quick Disconnect fittings that you need if you switch back & forth with different portable tanks. I sort of worried about the QD fittings being restrictive when you really get down on it. Just plug your fuel line & pump ball onto the outlet, run a filler hose, the vent, and go..<br /><br />To drain it for the winter, I just take off the clamp holding the engine side of the pump ball, and let it drain into cans I transfer to the chain saw, generator, or even the I/O boat I use in the winter. The 2 stroke oil doesn't hurt the chevy or Briggs & Stratton engines since there is no Catalytic converter to clog up.<br /><br /><br />On the trailer thing- you might could put carpet covered boards over your rollers (sort of like making it a temporary 'bunk' style trailer) to even out the presssure. Another idea is to remove the engine. The hull by itself should be pretty light and not damage itself on the rollers if there are plenty of them.

 

[Mark42]

Re: gas tank

That tank is ment to be permenantly mounted. A portable tank will work too, depends on how you want to set up your boat. Both have their own advantages.<br /><br />Regarding the rollers on the hull, a piece of plywood 5/8 to 3/4 ripped in 2x8 sections could be fit between the hull and rollers to spread out the pressure points against the hull. Might even work with particle board or flake board.

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: gas tank

glad to hear about the tank. Just have to figure out what size I want and where I'm going to put it.<br /><br />Thanks for the idea about just making temporary bunks on the trailer. The motor is off, transom is out, not a single piece of wood left, so it is light, but once I step in I can see the hull get slightly deformed by the rollers. If I have to crawl in for any reason while putting in the floor I'd like to make sure I'm not the cause of a deformed hull <br /><br />Thanks again for the help. Got a little bit of grinding left on the hull today, going to get all my wood cut and ready for glassing.

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: gas tank

Originally posted by SuzukiChopper:<br />, but once I step in I can see the hull get slightly deformed by the rollers.

Yeah,,, it needs some support while you're clomping around in there. <br /><br />I'd figure the cheapest 2x6s would work fine, shouldn't cost more than 7-8 bucks each, or even several of the cheapest 2x4s- depending on how your set up is, and you could probably use them later for some other project.<br /><br />Those tanks need to be secured down. Chafing a hole in one is the biggest worry. They don't take much abrasive contact very well-- especially on a sharp object. I've had good luck just setting them on a piece of carpet, even a big puddle of silicone and then putting the straps/clamps on it.

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: gas tank

I've got it up on some pieces of 1' x 8' 3/4" ply that I had cut off a 4x8 sheet when I picked up my transom material. Seems to help huge! I do have another question though. Is a 2x4 everywhere else in the world, other than canada, really 2" x 4" and a 2x8 really a 2" x 8"? I was a little surprised when I notched my stringer for 2x4 ribs and had to make 1/2" spacers all around to make them fit *laugh* Really surprised when my stringer measured 1 1/2" x 7". Just about went and chewed someone out at Home Chepo about it. I guess I'm just so used to buying steel and getting the actual size stated and not 1/2" or an 1" less.

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: gas tank

Originally posted by Winger Ed.:<br /> Those tanks need to be secured down. Chafing a hole in one is the biggest worry. They don't take much abrasive contact very well-- especially on a sharp object. I've had good luck just setting them on a piece of carpet, even a big puddle of silicone and then putting the straps/clamps on it.

And thank you for the suggestion on how to soften the mouting of the tank. I'll definately do that!

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: gas tank

opps,, double post...

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: gas tank

Originally posted by Winger Ed.:<br />

Originally posted by SuzukiChopper:<br /> , other than canada, really 2" x 4" and a 2x8 really a 2" x 8"?

What that means is when it was rough cut at the mill-- it was more or less a true 2x4, 2x10, 4x4, etc.. When the board goes through the planer to be slicked up, naturally it shrinks. I forget what the standard spec. is, but they take off about a 1/4" from each side. So your 2x4 is more like 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. But the industry still refers to them as a 2x4 out of habit.<br /><br />In the old days, a 2x4 really was '2x4', but when you bought it, it wasn't planed. I had a old house years ago that was built with rough cut boards like that,,,,, I had fits trying to fix it or install the trim for doors, windows, etc. that were sized to modern deminsions.<br /><br />On the tank, don't give yourself any gray hairs over it. All it has to do is be sat in/on something that will keep it still, have a little room around it to flex/'breath', and not be rubbed on by something else so as to wear a hole in it.

 

[cc lancer]

Re: gas tank

but once I step in I can see the hull get slightly deformed by the rollers. If I have to crawl in for any reason while putting in the floor I'd like to make sure I'm not the cause of a deformed hull.<br />>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>><br /><br />The weight of the hull should be on the keel, block up under it till it is just touching the rollers for support.<br /><br />I bought a boat last fall for about 1/3 of its value. They had put in a new floor, and foam while sitting on a roller trailer. When they got through the windshield hung over the side of the boat about 1 1/2 inches. What I have to do is cut the area under the dash on both sides, spread the hull apart and glass it back together. <br />If yours is bowing with your weight on it, you may be heading for the same problems.

 

[Mark42]

Re: gas tank

Yep, some cross braces are in order. Take your time to make sure you have the hull spread to the proper dimension before fixing the cross braces. A little extra time spent on verifying dimensions will save a huge headache and lots of wasted time and money later on. Measure, measure and re-measure. When your done, wait until the next day and measure again. I often find that even though I double check things, the next day shows I was still wrong!

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: gas tank

Well right now the boat is a closed bow and the deck is still on it. I know from when I measured it before the floor came out until now, nothing has shifted. I did cut out the splash-well because I'm modifying it to more of a platform, of course leaving the center section for drainage by the motor. I made sure I braced that area really well with 2x4's because the transom was coming out as well (good thing, it was soaked and bowed from the weight of the motor, new one going in). I replaced the 10 ft stringer with a 7' stringer, put full bulkheads on the front and back as well as 3 2x4 ribs (standing on end for maximum support, that's where I learned my lesson about wood *laugh*), and double checked the width of the floor once that was done and the hull was supported. Everything so far looks great, it's looking ALOT better actually. All that is left before glassing is 2 2x4's running from the rear bulkhead to the transom to support the rear portion of the floor, drilling the motor mount and drain holes in the transom, and I can start to glass. I actually made the stringer, bulkheads and ribs all one piece so I can put a coating of epoxy on the whole assembly, covering the screws, and then sliding the whole thing in place to glass to the hull. <br /><br />I've been motoring along with my GF and a buddy of ours helping out so pictures have been the furthest thing from my mind, but if I remember sunday I'll take some.

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: gas tank

Sorry for another double post, just wanted to say thanks to anyone who has helped me with this. I spent ALOT of time reading, planning and asking questions before I even bought 1 piece of wood and starting the destruction. Can't say enough about the generosity and the knowledge floating (no pun intended) around this forum!<br /><br />If anyone ever wants to build a custom motorcycle and has questions just let me know! That or anything technology. About all I can offer up for help